Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

question answered above, and Congrats on your win!

Harrison477

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, Bob. I assume you drilled blank pistons to achieve 8x1.1, is that correct?

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I'd imagine so since no one sells predrilled 8x1.1s

you'll just need a drill set

Harrison477

iTrader: (2)

Thank you

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

That is correct. when you see all of us running 'non-standard' pistons, we're drilling them ourselves. The only exception would be if someone is doing testing for one of their sponsors.

And fwiw, everyone should have a set of drill bits in their tool box for pistons

Harrison477

iTrader: (2)

Thank you, and I agree! Looking forward to trying this new shock package

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I just got my shocks setup with the 8x1.1 today. Though I had to use 425 and 325 oil since that's the closest I had on hand. Hopefully the results are similar enough.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

It should be pretty close. One thing I forgot to note is that it was roughly 90 degrees ambient temp, so i could have probably gone a tad heavier (maybe 50cst) than I was and still be in that comfort zone. As a general rule of thumb, 15 degrees = 50 cst. Remember that's not exact science, just a ratio that we've come to use as a guideline.

Pro Tip # 345871: if you feel like your car is lacking punch half way through a race, use your temp gun to check the temp of your center diff. If it's extremely hot, time to go to a thicker oil! Extremely is subjective. My advice is to temp your center diff a few times after perfect feeling runs so that you have a baseline of what YOUR normal is. Everyone's normal may be very different!!!

Happy Tweaking!

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I appreciate the tips Bob! Now I'm excited to see what i feel compared to my old 2x2.0 and 2x1.7 pistons. And I never had a clue about that center diff temp, I'll keep an eye on it as I do usually see fade toward the 8-9 minute mark. But it's usually my motor I temp and it's usually pretty warm.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Something that may help others I have noticed in the Center diff / motor mount area:

- re-check the motor cam screws. I have found that even with a lot of blue threadlock, I have had the screws back off when running full mod. the actual motor mount screws though have been fine. I also don't run my motor super hot either, without a fan I am at about 140 degrees, and in general I run a fan on it. But it is a 5.5T. So just something to watch for, cost me 2 spurs.

- The Exotek spurs seem to like to drop there screws that hold them to the diff. I have gone more liberal on the threadlock than I would prefer to due to the screw hex size, but its better than toasting the spurs which are $$$. I would suggest if you can source more screws, put them in all the holes possible and recheck probably before a race day for sure.


EbbTide: you will like the 8 x 1.1mm pistons. I liked them other than a bit more pack than i wanted for our surface, but jump handling was better than my current piston setup.

Something I am thinking fo doing here will be a 6 hole piston setup, maybe 6 x 1.25mm or 6 x 1.3mm and see how I like its pack-to-bump-handling performance.

shadaloo

iTrader: (2)

I see everyone recommends titanium ball studs, I tried looking on amain for some but I'm not sure what exact sizes are needed? I see short/long for the stock ball studs, but for titanium I just see the mm... so I don't know which ones to buy.. ><

Also I tried asking in another area on the forum, anyone have a scale recommendation for weighing the whole car? My current scale does hundredth's, but I think caps at 100g... Its great for weighing parts, but I am curious what my whole car weighs.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

Off the top of my head I couldn't tell you how many of each you need. But you're looking for 3x8mm and 3x6mm ballstuds. And there is only one long neck stud and that is used on the Ackerman. With the extra length of the titanium studs, this one shouldn't need adjustment. But with pretty much all of the titanium ballstuds out there, they are about .5mm taller than the short neck Tekno ballstuds so you need to take that into account when using ballstud washers for your setup. .5mm is one tekno washer.
If you look over the manual itll show you where the 3x8mm and 3x6mm studs are used and how many of them are needed.

And for the scale, I use the SkyRC corner weight system bought off ebay. They are around $100 but if you just want total weight then a kitchen scale would be cheaper. I personally think the corner weight system is worth it.

shadaloo

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the reply, I wish there was a titanium ball stud kit like they have for tlr, ae, etc from avid or lunsford.. I just installed the aluminum ackerman and stripped out my bell crank bushings so I went ahead and ordered the ecotek aluminum steering cranks so that doesn't happen again... WIth the ball studs I wasn't sure which ones exactly I needed to get. I saw the 3x8 and 3x6, but with the long/short neck on the stock and the titanium not saying that I wasn't sure.

Ill check out that scale, a corner system would be nice.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Sorry but I think Ti Ball studs are a waste of money. I mean guys are getting their cars under weight limits with kit screws and ball studs, so if that's your reasoning, I would start in other areas. Personally, I run about 1680g because that's where my car handles the best. Most of the team guys that I have spoken too are around 1640 for the same reasons. Some of the guys tested in the 1500's and everyone of them still went back up to the 1640 range.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I would tend to agree. The titanium studs are nice and all but they do require minor setup changes. For lightweight stuff I really like the Exotek body, plastic diff gears, front aluminum axles (rears break to easy for us mediocre drivers lol), carbon fiber towers, lunsford tie rods, and of course a titanium screw kit. The best economy kit is the Protek screw kit. But the best quality comes from Lunsford and RC Speed Secrets. I would also throw in one of the semi-LCG batteries that are 22.5mm thick. They usually come in around 190 grams which I find to be a nice sweet spot for my batteries. And you still get around 4200mah if juice.