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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

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Old 05-13-2019, 06:33 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:
  • Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
  • Gear differentials (all 3)
  • Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
  • Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
  • Reverse bellcrank steering system
  • Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
  • 8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
  • 13mm big bore shocks
  • 3.5mm shock shafts
  • Droop screws

Videos
Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
  • Preference for Associated factory team pinions
  • Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
  • Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
  • Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
  • For comparison:
  • B64 is 2.47:1
  • 22-4 is 2.4:1
  • YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels
  • B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
  • 22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
  • B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
  • 22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!


Build Tips:
  • When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head

  • Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock

  • Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification

  • Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment

  • Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
  • To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
  • pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
    More shock build tips here
  • Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
  • Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.

  • When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
  • When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
  • If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.

  • Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings


  • Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

    https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494


  • Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

    This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

    Joey A.

    So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

    -Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

    -Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

    -Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

    -Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

    -Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

    -Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

    Sorry for the shity grammar,
    TJR

    Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

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Old 08-28-2018, 11:36 AM
  #4591  
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Originally Posted by Harrison477 View Post
Bob, would you share which springs you were using?
I raced my eb410 for the first time at the Golden State Championship Race, TQ'd and won 13.5 4wd Sportsman. This was with the box stock setup, save for shock and diff weight changes, Car was amazing.

question answered above, and Congrats on your win!
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
question answered above, and Congrats on your win!
Thank you, Bob. I assume you drilled blank pistons to achieve 8x1.1, is that correct?
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Harrison477 View Post
Thank you, Bob. I assume you drilled blank pistons to achieve 8x1.1, is that correct?
I'd imagine so since no one sells predrilled 8x1.1s

you'll just need a drill set
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I'd imagine so since no one sells predrilled 8x1.1s

you'll just need a drill set
Thank you
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Old 08-28-2018, 12:42 PM
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That is correct. when you see all of us running 'non-standard' pistons, we're drilling them ourselves. The only exception would be if someone is doing testing for one of their sponsors.

And fwiw, everyone should have a set of drill bits in their tool box for pistons
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Old 08-28-2018, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
That is correct. when you see all of us running 'non-standard' pistons, we're drilling them ourselves. The only exception would be if someone is doing testing for one of their sponsors.

And fwiw, everyone should have a set of drill bits in their tool box for pistons
Thank you, and I agree! Looking forward to trying this new shock package
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Old 08-28-2018, 05:36 PM
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I just got my shocks setup with the 8x1.1 today. Though I had to use 425 and 325 oil since that's the closest I had on hand. Hopefully the results are similar enough.
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Old 08-29-2018, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post
I just got my shocks setup with the 8x1.1 today. Though I had to use 425 and 325 oil since that's the closest I had on hand. Hopefully the results are similar enough.
It should be pretty close. One thing I forgot to note is that it was roughly 90 degrees ambient temp, so i could have probably gone a tad heavier (maybe 50cst) than I was and still be in that comfort zone. As a general rule of thumb, 15 degrees = 50 cst. Remember that's not exact science, just a ratio that we've come to use as a guideline.

Pro Tip # 345871: if you feel like your car is lacking punch half way through a race, use your temp gun to check the temp of your center diff. If it's extremely hot, time to go to a thicker oil! Extremely is subjective. My advice is to temp your center diff a few times after perfect feeling runs so that you have a baseline of what YOUR normal is. Everyone's normal may be very different!!!

Happy Tweaking!
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Old 08-29-2018, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
It should be pretty close. One thing I forgot to note is that it was roughly 90 degrees ambient temp, so i could have probably gone a tad heavier (maybe 50cst) than I was and still be in that comfort zone. As a general rule of thumb, 15 degrees = 50 cst. Remember that's not exact science, just a ratio that we've come to use as a guideline.

Pro Tip # 345871: if you feel like your car is lacking punch half way through a race, use your temp gun to check the temp of your center diff. If it's extremely hot, time to go to a thicker oil! Extremely is subjective. My advice is to temp your center diff a few times after perfect feeling runs so that you have a baseline of what YOUR normal is. Everyone's normal may be very different!!!

Happy Tweaking!
I appreciate the tips Bob! Now I'm excited to see what i feel compared to my old 2x2.0 and 2x1.7 pistons. And I never had a clue about that center diff temp, I'll keep an eye on it as I do usually see fade toward the 8-9 minute mark. But it's usually my motor I temp and it's usually pretty warm.
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Old 08-29-2018, 07:47 AM
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Something that may help others I have noticed in the Center diff / motor mount area:

- re-check the motor cam screws. I have found that even with a lot of blue threadlock, I have had the screws back off when running full mod. the actual motor mount screws though have been fine. I also don't run my motor super hot either, without a fan I am at about 140 degrees, and in general I run a fan on it. But it is a 5.5T. So just something to watch for, cost me 2 spurs.

- The Exotek spurs seem to like to drop there screws that hold them to the diff. I have gone more liberal on the threadlock than I would prefer to due to the screw hex size, but its better than toasting the spurs which are $$$. I would suggest if you can source more screws, put them in all the holes possible and recheck probably before a race day for sure.


EbbTide: you will like the 8 x 1.1mm pistons. I liked them other than a bit more pack than i wanted for our surface, but jump handling was better than my current piston setup.

Something I am thinking fo doing here will be a 6 hole piston setup, maybe 6 x 1.25mm or 6 x 1.3mm and see how I like its pack-to-bump-handling performance.
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Old 08-29-2018, 08:57 PM
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I see everyone recommends titanium ball studs, I tried looking on amain for some but I'm not sure what exact sizes are needed? I see short/long for the stock ball studs, but for titanium I just see the mm... so I don't know which ones to buy.. ><

Also I tried asking in another area on the forum, anyone have a scale recommendation for weighing the whole car? My current scale does hundredth's, but I think caps at 100g... Its great for weighing parts, but I am curious what my whole car weighs.
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
I see everyone recommends titanium ball studs, I tried looking on amain for some but I'm not sure what exact sizes are needed? I see short/long for the stock ball studs, but for titanium I just see the mm... so I don't know which ones to buy.. ><

Also I tried asking in another area on the forum, anyone have a scale recommendation for weighing the whole car? My current scale does hundredth's, but I think caps at 100g... Its great for weighing parts, but I am curious what my whole car weighs.
Off the top of my head I couldn't tell you how many of each you need. But you're looking for 3x8mm and 3x6mm ballstuds. And there is only one long neck stud and that is used on the Ackerman. With the extra length of the titanium studs, this one shouldn't need adjustment. But with pretty much all of the titanium ballstuds out there, they are about .5mm taller than the short neck Tekno ballstuds so you need to take that into account when using ballstud washers for your setup. .5mm is one tekno washer.
If you look over the manual itll show you where the 3x8mm and 3x6mm studs are used and how many of them are needed.

And for the scale, I use the SkyRC corner weight system bought off ebay. They are around $100 but if you just want total weight then a kitchen scale would be cheaper. I personally think the corner weight system is worth it.
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Old 08-29-2018, 11:21 PM
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Thanks for the reply, I wish there was a titanium ball stud kit like they have for tlr, ae, etc from avid or lunsford.. I just installed the aluminum ackerman and stripped out my bell crank bushings so I went ahead and ordered the ecotek aluminum steering cranks so that doesn't happen again... WIth the ball studs I wasn't sure which ones exactly I needed to get. I saw the 3x8 and 3x6, but with the long/short neck on the stock and the titanium not saying that I wasn't sure.

Ill check out that scale, a corner system would be nice.
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Old 08-30-2018, 04:34 AM
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Sorry but I think Ti Ball studs are a waste of money. I mean guys are getting their cars under weight limits with kit screws and ball studs, so if that's your reasoning, I would start in other areas. Personally, I run about 1680g because that's where my car handles the best. Most of the team guys that I have spoken too are around 1640 for the same reasons. Some of the guys tested in the 1500's and everyone of them still went back up to the 1640 range.
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Old 08-30-2018, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Sorry but I think Ti Ball studs are a waste of money. I mean guys are getting their cars under weight limits with kit screws and ball studs, so if that's your reasoning, I would start in other areas. Personally, I run about 1680g because that's where my car handles the best. Most of the team guys that I have spoken too are around 1640 for the same reasons. Some of the guys tested in the 1500's and everyone of them still went back up to the 1640 range.
I would tend to agree. The titanium studs are nice and all but they do require minor setup changes. For lightweight stuff I really like the Exotek body, plastic diff gears, front aluminum axles (rears break to easy for us mediocre drivers lol), carbon fiber towers, lunsford tie rods, and of course a titanium screw kit. The best economy kit is the Protek screw kit. But the best quality comes from Lunsford and RC Speed Secrets. I would also throw in one of the semi-LCG batteries that are 22.5mm thick. They usually come in around 190 grams which I find to be a nice sweet spot for my batteries. And you still get around 4200mah if juice.
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