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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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01-10-2018, 10:35 AM

#3166

rvrslt1

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

First, yes you can reuse the bleeder screws and o-rings for the new caps. There is an alternative o-ring too that I just tried, they are: ASC21332. They don't fit perfect as there is a bit of overhang on some of mine but they are much easier to get on the screw.

As for the exotek bit, it is an unfortunate thing but Exotek has taken notice because this has been a common issue with their first batch of spools. If you contact them about it they should be willing to send you out an updated spool under warranty

Yes they did say WHEN they have updated out drives they would send them out. I will be asking for a had full of them.

01-10-2018, 12:13 PM

#3167

rcgod

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I don't get it. Most people seem to love the way this car handles in the stock configuration. Tekno has been working on the design for a long time. Now MIP comes out with a new layout after less than 1 month of testing and it's supposed to be better. Seems like they're trying to make a quick buck.

Scott R likes this.

01-10-2018, 12:32 PM

#3168

Bob Barry

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It's great to see companies making optional parts for our product that allow people options. I will continue to support companies who push innovation and am happy to see their progress. I don't personally feel the need for the MIP chassis but I respect the amount of work that they are putting into their product. I will give their shock bushings and pucks a try, but I don't feel the need to majorly re-design an already excellent platform.

05PSD and Scott R like this.

01-10-2018, 12:54 PM

#3169

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rcgod

I don't really think they're trying to make a quick buck with this. It probably won't even make them much at all. But it is a decent option for someone with an eb410 that wants a traditional layout with the Tekno beefiness up front and in the rear.

01-10-2018, 12:57 PM

#3170

Tbuggy

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Totally agree, whats the point to change a platform that was meant to be different into something similar that already exists?

IMO its more like they are stuck in an different way of thinking that Tekno obviously broke free from. As well as trying to make a $ on people that have expendable incomes I suppose. Cant blame them for that at all!

Change doesn't come from doing things the same over and over, it comes from taking chances and doing things differently!

I think in reality Tekno has put some major pressure on the class and other manufacturers are simply reacting the way they know how to.

Right down to I saw a custom HB413 chassis that is imitating the eb410 layout!

Last edited by Tbuggy; 01-10-2018 at 01:53 PM.

01-10-2018, 02:38 PM

#3171

boudin4evr

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all this gearing stuff: IS the 70t spur better for 13.5? or the stock?
I have both
Tekin 13.5 spec R
I know mesh isnt tight enough w a 21
I have 20-23t
small indoor clay track
timing? pinion and spur recommendations?
Tekin esc settings?
Nothing on tekins site for setups on eb410
thanks

01-10-2018, 02:45 PM

#3172

EbbTide

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Quote:

Originally Posted by boudin4evr

The 70t is better for 13.5 if you can gear your motor appropriately which I assume the smallest pinion you can use is a 22t with that spur since you said at 21t the mesh wasn't good enough. But with the Tekin Spec-R I'm not sure 22t would be low enough for it since people are already running as low as 24t with the stock 81t spur gear. You could try 22/70 and see how your motor temps are and turn down the epa if it's too much speed. But personally with the spec-r I would stick with the 81t spur and buy pinions from 23t-26t

01-10-2018, 04:09 PM

#3173

slider3

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13.5 spec-r

I’m running the tekin spec-r 13.5. Spur 81- pinion 24,stock timing, medium size clay track with a fan. Motor never went over 115 on a full pack. I even ran a 25 pin and motor temps around 120.

Hope that helps.

01-10-2018, 08:33 PM

#3174

blankenj99

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Quote:

Originally Posted by E-Mann

The only rear wheels that I have found with a different offset is the Xray. They are 1mm wider or 2mm for a pair. This might be OK if you are running on carpet or high grip but otherwise I wouldn't recommend it.

The biggest difference I have found in rear wheels is the inner diameter and if the area around the nut is dished or flush / inset. I did this measuring when some of the wheels I ran on my b64 rubbed on the hubs (eb410 would be the turbuckle).

Here is what I measured starting with smallest to largest diameter (some may be off .5 mm as wheels flex. I tried to capture without flex)

TLR flush 52.9mm
Schumacher dished 53.0
AE / JC MONO dished 53.5
Avid satellite (B6/22/RB6) flush 54.0
Xray flush 54.2

Another consideration is the thickness of the wheel where the axle goes through. On my Schumacher K2, the threaded portion is very short and there's not enough threads to get the nut on right using any wheels other than Schumacher. If you lose one of those special thin wheel nuts on the Tekno, a regular nut barely gets a good grip...

01-10-2018, 09:01 PM

#3175

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by blankenj99

When I used to run Schumacher, I would use a forstner bit to drill into my TLR 22 wheels to get proper thread clearance. It was a HUGE selling point for me when Tekno opted for longer threads on the axles!

01-10-2018, 10:04 PM

#3176

STLNLST

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Quote:

Originally Posted by boudin4evr

You don't need a specific Tekin setting for one buggy. If you ran 13.5 wheeler before getting the EB410 then you will be perfectly fine running those settings. IMO the 70 isn't needed with the SpecR motor as it is geared much differently than what most consider "normal" gearing. R1, Reedy Mach3.......etc

Bob Barry likes this.

01-11-2018, 12:58 AM

#3177

ljungberg

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At last,

After some major changing to the setup I have a car that is now really good on the EOS carpet. Ride height 15mm in front, 14 in the back. Front camber -1 and rear -2. Front red springs, rear orange. Took away the CF front plate and installed the stock one again. Raceform front shock Tower for more forgiving flex. Reduced the rear weight to 20 gram.

B64 slipper, Exotek parts in the middle and the rearhubs from Exotek.

Now I´m in the right direction on the car

Cain and ezlight like this.

01-11-2018, 06:35 AM

#3178

Bob Barry

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Quote:

Originally Posted by boudin4evr

the Tekin Spec R motor runs 3-5 teeth lower than all the other 13.5 motors so you would probably be better off with the 81t.

01-11-2018, 10:33 AM

#3179

suzukipro

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Has anyone using the stock 81T spur shimmed their center diff/motor mount up off the chassis a .5-1mm to provide extra clearance between the chassis and spur gear teeth? I'm about to try this to see if it eliminates the spur gear problems (already using AE pinion with tight mesh). Another option would be to find a slightly smaller spur gear that mated up with the diff?

01-11-2018, 10:38 AM

#3180

Cain

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are you thinking the spur is "bouncing" on the chassis and that is where the damage comes from?

I am now running the b64 schelle diff which uses a 78T spur. that size seems very nice.