2421LikesTekno RC EB410 Thread
05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page. Basic Stats/Features:
Videos Servo Horns Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:
Gearing: Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.
Wheels
Setup Sheets and other documentation Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.
Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
Aftermarket Upgrades:
Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Build Tips:
Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/
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11-18-2017, 06:40 PM
#2416
By the way a B64 body works
11-18-2017, 11:04 PM
#2418
What's a good oil to use on bearings?
Anyone use T-work's titanium products? Are they any good?
Anyone have any part numbers for a 23t LP servo horn?
Anyone use T-work's titanium products? Are they any good?
Anyone have any part numbers for a 23t LP servo horn?
11-18-2017, 11:35 PM
#2419
I want to buy a 4wd for 13.5 stock racing. I haven't been racing long 5 Races 10 Practices mostly w/ a short course and a buggy 2wd both associated. I recently moved and have a new track to get used to. I'm looking at both EB410 and B64D. Was going to just get the B64D but I was reading that the EB410 is a durable car. I think something that could handle a new driver better would be better for me. Most guys at the track are using associated. It's an outdoor bumpy dirt track with dusty to sandy conditions most of the time. (mostly the reason I'm switching over to a 4wd car) What are your thoughts for the guys who have driven and worked on both?
Last edited by Justin805; 11-18-2017 at 11:47 PM.
11-19-2017, 04:53 AM
#2420
Odd as it may sound, it's because the EB410 has gobs of steering and it can rotate faster (within reason) is one of the reasons the popularity is quickly picking up interest at the club in my area... I just needed to add some expo into my steering rates to suit my needs... I think the electronics can be the fine tuning us mortals need to handle a factory driver setups.
I agree, Tekno did an awesome job for a first release #takesabow
I agree, Tekno did an awesome job for a first release #takesabow
To get better also neutral steering and throttle are my suggestion. Trying to get aggressiveness out of the car with electronics isn´t the way to better driving.
Tekno also pumps out more upgrade parts faster than maybe any other brand out there. So the "common" people get parts faster and can benefit from them.
11-19-2017, 05:11 AM
#2421
How much does the RCSS titanium screw weigh vs stock screw kit? Looking at loosing some weight on my EB410
11-19-2017, 06:16 AM
#2422
11-19-2017, 07:04 AM
#2423
I definitely suggest forgetting driver setups and setup according to skill and track. If you don´t know what to do then let drivers with experience drive the car a few laps and suggest setup.
To get better also neutral steering and throttle are my suggestion. Trying to get aggressiveness out of the car with electronics isn´t the way to better driving.
Tekno also pumps out more upgrade parts faster than maybe any other brand out there. So the "common" people get parts faster and can benefit from them.
To get better also neutral steering and throttle are my suggestion. Trying to get aggressiveness out of the car with electronics isn´t the way to better driving.
Tekno also pumps out more upgrade parts faster than maybe any other brand out there. So the "common" people get parts faster and can benefit from them.
11-19-2017, 07:10 AM
#2424
typically, titanium hardware cuts the weight in half... so if you were to weigh all the stock screws, then divide by 2 to get a ball park estimate... if it were me, I would upgrade the upper deck screws and leave the heavier lower deck screws alone, idea being you want to lower the center of gravity so reducing weight from the bottom kinda defeats the purpose.
11-19-2017, 07:15 AM
#2425
P/N RDGRP-0085-23 on Amain.
11-19-2017, 07:39 AM
#2426
for open mod, I like to use Lucas Assembly Lube
for stock racing, I like to use Purple Extreme and I like re-apply once every 2 race days, I also apply this all metal to metal surfaces like CVD's, out drives, etc which significantly reduces wear.
for stock racing, I like to use Purple Extreme and I like re-apply once every 2 race days, I also apply this all metal to metal surfaces like CVD's, out drives, etc which significantly reduces wear.
11-19-2017, 09:29 AM
#2427
typically, titanium hardware cuts the weight in half... so if you were to weigh all the stock screws, then divide by 2 to get a ball park estimate... if it were me, I would upgrade the upper deck screws and leave the heavier lower deck screws alone, idea being you want to lower the center of gravity so reducing weight from the bottom kinda defeats the purpose.
11-19-2017, 09:57 AM
#2428
11-19-2017, 10:10 AM
#2429
I want to buy a 4wd for 13.5 stock racing. I haven't been racing long 5 Races 10 Practices mostly w/ a short course and a buggy 2wd both associated. I recently moved and have a new track to get used to. I'm looking at both EB410 and B64D. Was going to just get the B64D but I was reading that the EB410 is a durable car. I think something that could handle a new driver better would be better for me. Most guys at the track are using associated. It's an outdoor bumpy dirt track with dusty to sandy conditions most of the time. (mostly the reason I'm switching over to a 4wd car) What are your thoughts for the guys who have driven and worked on both?
Performance: In two days of tuning I was able to get the Tekno much faster (.5-1 second per lap on 35 sec lap outdoor track). It feels more stable and carries more speed through corners. The B64 is still very fast and in the right drivers hands I think would be just as fast as the Tekno. However I have spent a lot on upgrades for the B64. Taller rear tower, longer rear shock bodies, chrome shock shafts, machined shock internals, vrp valve pistons, alum steering rack. Out of the box the Tekno is way better.
Value/parts: While you could get some of the upgrades for the b64 for the same price as the Tekno kit, you will likely spend more on the b64. I own a B6 and it is nice to use the same shocks, springs, pills, etc vs all new stuff for the Tekno.
11-19-2017, 01:29 PM
#2430
If you follow the instructions I gave, then you'll be within a gram or two... short answer is no, it won't be worth the money unless you need to shave minute fractions off your time... at my club, positions #1-7 are within 0.487 fast lap times and I'm at the point where I need every little advantage that I can find, but before investing lightened static weight, I would first look into lightening rotating mass, unsprung weight... i.e. ceramic bearings, plastic pinion, lunsford turnbuckles, possibly center spool, etc... these are areas I would go first. Price to weight ratio would also put carbon upgrades ahead with the screws going pretty much dead last in terms of weight to cost benefit. Depending on track surface, I also think heavier cars tend to be easier to control on higher traction giving a little more stability, so you can potentially rob Peter to pay Paul if you drop too much static weight depending on your track condition. I'm also seeing folks are starting to drill their chassis to reduce weight and increase flex, that can be done for free