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Tekno RC EB410 Thread

05-13-2019, 06:33 AM - Wikipost

R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB410 Thread

Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.

Last edit by: tobamiester

Welcome to the EB410 Wiki page.

Basic Stats/Features:

Shaft drive (tapered AL for light weight and straightness)
Gear differentials (all 3)
Low Angle CVAs (with captured pins so no ejecting them!)
Durable stub axles with 12mm hexes and optional offset adjustments
Reverse bellcrank steering system
Quick access bulkheads (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
Spllt center diff holder (for easy diff maintenance and tuning)
8th scale style motor mount (for easy mesh adjustment)
13mm big bore shocks
3.5mm shock shafts
Droop screws

Videos

Servo Horns
Tekno included a plastic servo horn but also offers an aluminum one. This is highly recommended. Here's a list of servo horns that have been found to work:

Gearing:
Works out of the box for mod or 13.5.

Preference for Associated factory team pinions
Start mod gearing around 21t pinion
Start 13.5 gearing around 29t pinion with the stock spur (81tooth). If using a Tekin Spec R 13.5, start with a 24t pinion for medium sized indoor tracks.
Internal Gear Ratio: 2.5:1
For comparison:
B64 is 2.47:1
22-4 is 2.4:1
YZ4 is 2.6:1

Wheels

B6/22/rb6 wheels direct fit
22-4/XB4 front wheels direct fit
B64 front wheels will fit, but you need the +1 hexes (can use #TKR1654X, which is a +1mm hex)
22 2wd front wheels will also fit, possibly a good option for carpet.

Setup Sheets and other documentation
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Ryan Lutz Setups
Instruction Manual
EB410 Resources
Ryan Lutz IOCC blog
PT Oil CST conversion Chart
List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:

GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.
Harbor Freight 0.5mm - 3.0mm bit set * 2.1mm not included

Aftermarket Upgrades:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Build Tips:

When fastening the steering posts with a 5.5mm socket wrench, you can back space the socket with some nuts to help drive the post into the bulk head
Place an alcohol swab over metal threads and drive screws through the swab to clean both sides of threads before applying thread lock
Use a metallic marker to indicate what fluids you have filled in your diffs for easy identification
Apply thin layer of grease on crown gears to help hold gaskets in place for easy hole alignment
Bags F and H have 2 different size set screws, be sure to use the smaller 3x3mm screws for the hexes or you may run into problems installing wheels over the hex if you use the longer 3x4mm screws
To make is easier to slip the o-rings on the shock cap bleeder screws, apply a drop of shock oil and slip them over a 1.5mm hex bit, then line up the bit with the screw and transfer the o-ring over using fingernails or needle nose pliers
pinch+rotate shock caps in 17mm hex wrench to improve roundness
More shock build tips here
Use a 3.05mm drill bit or 3.05mm Kyosho arm reamer, 1/8" drill bits are not recommended because they are 3.17mm in diameter and tend to introduce too much slop, the pins are roughly 2.97mm in diameter
Replace the stock 3x14mm screws (TKR1405) with 3x20mm screws (TKR1409) in step H-10 in the manual in order to increase durability to the bulkhead.
When installing the front and rear differentials into the bulkheads be careful when tightening the 3x8mm screws of the cover that holds the diff in place. Bottom out the screws first (use a hand driver and make it hand tight) then check the diff to make sure it rotates smooth. If it binds up, start by backing out each screw 1/8-1/4 of a turn until the both front and rear diffs move freely. The plastic threads will keep the screws in place so don't worry if you think the screws are not secure.
When installing the steering hub kingpins (TKR6596), drive each one in hand tight only. Then check the movement of the steering hub. If it binds up, back out the kingpin screws by 1/8-1/4 of a turn until it moves freely. Then install the set screws (TKR1601) to hold it in place. Only drive the set screw in until you make contact with the kingpin. Do not force it.
If using the low profile servo mount, be sure to use smaller OD (outter diameter) washers to avoid rubbing on the center drive shaft. Protek ball stud washers are a good example of the acceptable diameter. You can chose to not run washers though it is recommended to use them as it makes for a more secure mount.
Ball Cup Alternative from AE: ASC91453. These are used as a harder composite option if you are not happy with the softer stock plastics. Note that these are approximately 2-3mm shorter and require compensation when building your kit to the manual specs to achieve proper camber/toe settings
Wheel Nut Alternative: Yokomo 4mm Thin Aluminum Serrated Flanged Nut

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-n4flt/p541494
Moving Rear Shocks to the Front of the A-arm

This is the break down of what's required by one of the Eb410 FB users.

Joey A.

So since there has been some people wondering about running the shocks in the front of the arm I though I would try explaining everything that I did to get them to work and why. My goal was to run as much stock stuff as possible with the least amount of modifications.

-Arms- need to be flipped and 1mm shaved off the back (spacing the arm farther back) running it this way the car is still a mm shorter then stock but more material could be removed for more adjustability but I have found no need to make the car longer.

-Inner ball stud- there are 2 ways of mounting, the first can be used with the stock plastic tower. All you need to do is use a 10mm ball stud instead of the lower shock mount screw and a little clearance from the shock tower and diff case. Using this method will work but the ball stud is moved lower and farther in then the stock locations which requires different pivot locations to try and correct roll centers. The other way (preferred) using the option carbon tower drill a hole higher and farther out if done properly you will be able to get the ball stud location in the correct hight(0mm) and between the two stock locations.

-Shocks- only 2 changes from stock you will need to space the top shock mount 2mm out. You will also need to run around 1.5-2mm less droop depending on your setup.

-Sway bar- this is the hardest part of the swap. This can be done a million ways I chose to print a mount in the stock ball stud location which allowed me to use the stock swaybars and arm mounting position. You can also bend your own bar and use the stock mounts on the back. You will have to drill your arms on the other side and closer to the pivot for this to work (remember you will need a thinner bar the closer you mount the lower pickup on the arm to get the same feeling as stock).

-Other- you will need to remove the drop screws on the rear arm. Depending on rear rims,hubs,ballcups and setup you might need to clearance the outer ball cup so it doesn’t rub on the wheel.

-Why- the benefits of running the shocks in the front are the ability to run a softer rear shock package without giving up corner speed and pack. The car will land without chassis slapping or packing out as easy allowing you to drive the car harder and it corners flatter and rotates faster without losing rear grip.

Sorry for the shity grammar,
TJR

Sway bar mount for forward mounted shocks: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tekno-EB410...4AAOSwYNxahFkq

Exotek Sway Bar Mount http://www.exotekracing.com/eb410-re...ar-mount-6061/

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10-18-2017, 07:15 AM

#1681

suzukipro

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Quote:

Originally Posted by MattDub

The best fit seemed to be 4ea 34mm front and 2ea 50mm rear Lunsford turnbuckles.

Are the Lunsford turnbuckles different lengths than the the stock turnbuckles as their listed lengths are shorter than the stock parts dimensions. Or is it that they are the the same length, but just have different dimensions listed compared to the stock dimensions listed?

10-18-2017, 07:44 AM

#1682

ezlight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by WonTonsChicken

Alright... So, which brand of drill bits fits best? I have some AE drill bits, and they are a little on the "too big" side.. I almost have to snap the screw/set screw onto it..

Not to mention, the 1.5 screws in the diffs worry me.. I'd hate to strip one of those out in between quals.. I know that size/space is a factor, but would there be any possibility of 2.0 screws for the diffs???

Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

I only use fresh MIP bits when having to deal with 1.5mm or smaller. They've never (so far) stripped my diffs screws in my dex210. And I believe they are smaller than the eb410 screws.

For bits, MIP is the only way to go.

10-18-2017, 07:47 AM

#1683

ezlight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by suzukipro

overall length is the same, problem is that when you order the same length links, the lunsford threads stop well short of the adjustment nut, where as the tekno threads go almost all the way.

For full adjust ability, your probably going to want shorter links if doing the change.

10-18-2017, 07:48 AM

#1684

jmcelroy42

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Quote:

Originally Posted by suzukipro

I think its because the threaded portion of the stock ones is longer than the threaded portion of the Lunsford. So when you screw the rod ends on as far as to need to the rod end is going past the threads to the smooth part of the turnbuckle. And since its the same diameter as the OD of the threads it will bind in the rod end.

10-18-2017, 08:00 AM

#1685

Bob Barry

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Hey guys, I've updated the Wiki post at the top of the page with more information that has been published. We seem to be getting a ton of the same questions over and over, so let's try to direct people to the wiki. It has the answers. If it doesn't, then let's get them there!

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10-18-2017, 08:02 AM

#1686

Bob Barry

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I ended up getting 42mm front turnbuckles (40mm were out of stock) and they fit. Now I don't know how much adjustment I am going to have. Time will tell, but I was able to get kit setup on the car. They did offer a slightly smaller size, which I may get just to avoid any issues.

10-18-2017, 08:08 AM

#1687

celt

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How did I ever live without droop screws...

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10-18-2017, 08:21 AM

#1688

billdelong

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

nice call.... I added a section for chassis protectors

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10-18-2017, 08:24 AM

#1689

Bob Barry

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You guys who have been running the car, put together a list of stuff you see that are potential weak spots so we can get a recommended spare parts list up there.

Also would like to see some servo horns, turnbuckles, etc...

10-18-2017, 08:55 AM

#1690

DG Designs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bob Barry

Servo horn......
Literally thats it. I have seen one broken diff case but that is the only other item i have heard of breaking.

10-18-2017, 08:59 AM

#1691

Krio

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Just listing the items I've seen here and on social media as having been broken:
Front diff case
Bent hinge pins
Shock cap (possibly cross threaded at first)
Stock servo horn
Hinge pin inserts

Most of those have been unique cases with no solid trends. Unlike the B64 thread where every 5th post for a while was a broken diff case or steering rack.

10-18-2017, 09:02 AM

#1692

EbbTide

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We should keep spares for the cars that break when they get hit by the eb410 lol

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10-18-2017, 09:07 AM

#1693

ezlight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by EbbTide

We should keep spares for the cars that break when they get hit by the eb410 lol

I don't have that kind of budget

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10-18-2017, 09:10 AM

#1694

Wildcat1971

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Krio

I broke one tower on my b64 :P

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10-18-2017, 09:16 AM

#1695

snowninja

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Quote:

Originally Posted by HeavyD99

I got a chance to build one this past weekend and ran it this evening on a dirt track using Hole shots. Totally box stock oils, springs and set up. I was impressed how well the rear stayed planted through the sitchback section and powering out of 180 degree corners, some of which are off camber and even a little up hill. No issue laying down the power onto the straight either, I tried to get the rear end to break loose but she kept tracking straight. It was a bit damp this evening so traction was high for out door dirt but I came away impressed. I'd liked to have tried some weight in the back to see how it would change the feel but it didn't seem to need it. It jumped well, no crazy nose diving or anything weird. I really liked the big shocks too. Nice kit.

Thank you, Finally a drive report worth reading.

Do you think lighter springs and shock oils would have made it even better?