HB Racing E817
#466
So i managed to overheat my motor today(XR8 SCB 1900kv). Going down to a 20 tooth pinion.
#467
It sounds like it's the equivalent of changing pill height in the b block which is what the b block in the TKI4 did. It is a higher front roll center.
#468
Hi all,
I have damaged one of the steering ball cups - the straight part... in the manual it says it's hbc8100 but this is discontinued and not available. Anyone know which part number should be used?
I have damaged one of the steering ball cups - the straight part... in the manual it says it's hbc8100 but this is discontinued and not available. Anyone know which part number should be used?
#469
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
#470
I did some more testing yesterday and made some great progress. It is almost perfect now!
I went with the 1 up / 2 down pill combination in the C/D blocks. I also shortened the rear link one hole at the hub and raised it up one on the tower. I changed the diff fluids to 7/5/3 (Mugen).
I am now able to use full throttle without any worries of it breaking loose and have a ton of steering.
I will work on shocks next.
I did notice that the front & rear CVD pins (diff side) are starting to show signs of wear with flat spots. Are HB's known to wear quickly? I have around 10 packs on it. I guess i'll put some MBX7R uni's on.
I went with the 1 up / 2 down pill combination in the C/D blocks. I also shortened the rear link one hole at the hub and raised it up one on the tower. I changed the diff fluids to 7/5/3 (Mugen).
I am now able to use full throttle without any worries of it breaking loose and have a ton of steering.
I will work on shocks next.
I did notice that the front & rear CVD pins (diff side) are starting to show signs of wear with flat spots. Are HB's known to wear quickly? I have around 10 packs on it. I guess i'll put some MBX7R uni's on.
#471
in my opinion yes that is my only gripe with HB is wear
#472
For the center driveline of this car, it is the pins that tend to wear and not the outdrives. Buy some Mugen pins and a good pin replacement tool and replace as needed. I personally love the Hudy pin replacement tool.
For other cars, it is the outdrives that wear out more than the pin.
For other cars, it is the outdrives that wear out more than the pin.
#474
Answer-rc.com. they are in Europe, but ship worldwide. Amain and Tower are really dropping the ball as far as keeping parts stocked. HB Racing has them in stock, so i don't know why Amain and Tower wouldn't have them.
#475
For the center driveline of this car, it is the pins that tend to wear and not the outdrives. Buy some Mugen pins and a good pin replacement tool and replace as needed. I personally love the Hudy pin replacement tool.
For other cars, it is the outdrives that wear out more than the pin.
For other cars, it is the outdrives that wear out more than the pin.
#476
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
I did some more testing yesterday and made some great progress. It is almost perfect now!
I went with the 1 up / 2 down pill combination in the C/D blocks. I also shortened the rear link one hole at the hub and raised it up one on the tower. I changed the diff fluids to 7/5/3 (Mugen).
I am now able to use full throttle without any worries of it breaking loose and have a ton of steering.
I will work on shocks next.
I did notice that the front & rear CVD pins (diff side) are starting to show signs of wear with flat spots. Are HB's known to wear quickly? I have around 10 packs on it. I guess i'll put some MBX7R uni's on.
I went with the 1 up / 2 down pill combination in the C/D blocks. I also shortened the rear link one hole at the hub and raised it up one on the tower. I changed the diff fluids to 7/5/3 (Mugen).
I am now able to use full throttle without any worries of it breaking loose and have a ton of steering.
I will work on shocks next.
I did notice that the front & rear CVD pins (diff side) are starting to show signs of wear with flat spots. Are HB's known to wear quickly? I have around 10 packs on it. I guess i'll put some MBX7R uni's on.
On a high bite track, wear will naturally be higher and as a maintenance item, pins are much cheaper to replace than entire drive shafts or axles... though you may need to invest in a pin tool.
As for the Mugen uni's, you'll may be able to replace the drive pins once or twice before the joint itself becomes super sloppy. Sure it may be almost maintenance free, but the trade off will be replacing the entire part when the time comes. YMMV.
#477
Tech Initiate
SEF turned me on to this tool. It's pricey, but it's the right tool for the job on this car because the pins are really tight. Once you try to replace pins the hard way (any other method or tool) and then you use the Hudy tool there is a certain amount of pleasurable satisfaction. Any thought of, "I can't believe i spent that much on a tool to replace some pins" turns into, "OMG this tool works good!"
about the pin replacement tool, If you don't want to pay the Hudy price. The chain removal tool do the job and A Lot cheaper.
HERE are the complete tutorial using slightly different tool
#478
HB Racing's pins are way tighter than other companies and a normal screw type press can't deal with pressing them out. I would be surprised if that chain breaker can do it on this car. *and to be honest, I'm basing my statement on the D815's center shafts. The E817 center shafts could be less tight as i really don't know since i haven't tried to replace it's center shaft pins.
#479
Tech Apprentice
92mm drive shafts
Anybody know if there is some stronger 92mm front drive shafts out there to buy. Mine are looking slightly bent at the front so thought id upgrade while I'm replacing them.
Thanks
Thanks
#480
I haven't tried them, but maybe someone has tried Mugen CVDs on this car.