jpas

iTrader: (1)

Hi traction clay. Typos are the tire of choice in clay compound

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

Not sure what your team guys are doing, but I wouldn't be afraid to go thicker oils for a high bite track. I've used 10-6-3 diff oils on a damp tacky clay with carpet in some sections with great success to tame the 'twitchy-ness'

I'm now currently using the base setup 5-3-2 as the track is now dry as a bone, dusty, loose and rough. In this situation, I need all the steering and rotation I can get!

Level ride height 28/28mm all-around as you may not need the additional weight transfer to the front (aka rotation) off-power in clay.

sstoffer

iTrader: (44)

I'm at 10f/5c/2r, with a couple of other changes from stock and have a "safe" push in the buggy. I actually need to add some steering to pick up my hot lap pace.

rdeppen

iTrader: (9)

same fluids in mine 10,5,2 drives really good. Car has massive amounts of steering. easier to take it away then trying to find it LOL

just started the build on my D817 today. going to try 7,5,2 to start in it

Mav_64

Hi guys, just a quick question about set up on the E817. For me the back end is very loose and when I go over the jumps it nose dives or normally flips and lands completely on it's shock towers. I'm new to 1/8 and I haven't raced anything for 15years!

The top shock of the rear is: hole 4. at the bottom: hole 2. For the links: inside 3, outside C. I have +2degrees camber and standard 3 degrees metal plate at the back. Shock oil 30w, with 6 x13mm piston. 2mm and 2mm for the wishbone spacers

Front end: The top shock of the rear is: hole 3. at the bottom: hole 2. For the links: inside 3, outside A. I have +2degrees camber and standard 3 degrees metal plate at the back. Shock oil 45w, with 6 x13mm piston. 1mm and 2mm wishbone spacers.

I'm not sure if that's clear, but I'm trying to pass on all the info. It was Tessmann's set up from feb 2015 fear farm track.

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

Is the rear-end of the chassis slapping off the jump face and kicking-up causing a nose down attitude? Sounds like the rear-end does not have enough support and could be too soft.

Your shocks oils noted a 15wt difference F/R compared to a 5wt difference on the base E817 setup and Ty's DNC 2015 setup. Is the reason you're running 30wt oil in the rear is due to the rear shocks packing too much in the bumps?

tc5 man

The easy fix on the HB 1/8 scale buggys on loose dirt is use the outside hole on the Front carrier blocks samething with the Teknos which have a similar layout .

My D812 converted was handfull on loose dirt when trying to push it harder and that works right away locked the Rear end in more could drive it harder .

Cuebulon

Finally got my first impression with the car yesterday. This thing is amazing! It's paired with the hobbywing xr8 sct pro and the SMC 1900kv motor with a 21 tooth pinion makes it a powerhouse.

I noticed it was pretty darn loose in the rear end on a dry dusty track. with a little drive style changes i was able to manage due to not having any tuning parts with me.

It seemed to me that the stock oils were a little to much for the springs from the kit. could be my taste in driving but thats what i noticed regarding temps and track condition. which was about 70 degrees F and a pretty bumpy track.

The next change I make if it persists will be thicker oil up front. I was thinking 10/5/2, but one thing at a time right?

anyway what a great damn car

Mav_64

Maybe that's it. No the set up was was Ty's, but someone from the club said put this weight oils in. So I did. Is it normally best to run a 5w or no more than 10w difference? I didn't really think about it at the time as the guy is a current racer and I like I said I've been out of the 1/10 that I used to race 15years ago. This was also the first ever time on this track and conditions as I'm living in Spain. So again, not sure what set up is required, especially for big jumps

Mav_64

Just to confirm I got what you said... so, change the linkage at the front to 3c would calm down the steering at the front? Sorry if I sound like I haven't go a clue, but that's more or less true for the set up. Haha

Mav_64

I have a queastion for you, I'm running 2100kv motor and the hobby shop told me I need a 14t pinion!? I didn't think that was right as I was expecting to need something between 19t-21t? Does 14t sound right to you?

Also I've never had a 4wd before and these little baby has x3 differentials! So I'm wondering what difference does it make to the handeling of the car with thicker and thinner oils in each? I've been told ALWAYS run heavier in the front with the lowest being at the rear?

tc5 man

The outside hole looks like it's just two holes on the front carrier blocks pretty much the 1 hole on the outside from stock inside hole . To me it gave more body roll still plently of steering on my D812 but it calmed down the rear end if you push it harder see on loose dirt . You will need to re adjust the camber again .

Granted my D812 with a E conversion is nothing like this buggy but seems like a general issue on loose dirt with HB 1/8 buggys . But it will calm it down on loose dirt .


Now if you track has 180 turns or pretty tight turns it will push a bit much that's the downside .

TRiN

iTrader: (2)

For the D815/17 nitro counterpart, yes a 13-14T pinion would work as it uses a 3.3 drive ratio...

The E817 uses a 4.3 drive ratio therefore:-
For a 2100Kv motor, 17-19T is the gearing range, and for a 1900Kv motor, 19-21T is the gearing range.

Mav_64

Thanks for that. The model shop is just basing all there suggestions on what the other guys have in the club, mainly nitro and the electirc guys Morgan. No one is running the E817 yet, only x3other people have them, but the weathers been shit and I've know idea who they are as I've only just joined the club few days ago

Mav_64

Sounds good, I'll try and give it ago tomorrow if the weathers ok and I'll let you know! do you have the links set at and incline or parallel?