243LikesTLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
06-20-2016, 06:37 AM - Wikipost
|
|||
|
|||
|
10-16-2016, 08:10 PM
#661
@SickNT760, the original horizontal 1.0 rear block works, and has the same mounting points as the newer 2.0 vertical block. The Exotek block is horizontal as well, like the 1.0, but has two additional lower holes, for more rotation. The TLR vertical block came out as an option for the 1.0 and is now standard on the 2.0. To get the same lower mounting holes like the Exotek, you simply remove the 1mm spacers from the vertical block, ya follow? So the 2.0 vertical block works, but you can snap a stud off, but yes, buy the Exotek, and you'll have the mounting points from a 2.0 vertical block.
10-17-2016, 11:01 AM
#665
10-17-2016, 03:31 PM
#667
No update to this part. It takes a warranted hit to break it. Infact, you can take a much harder hit on the front end than the 1.0 before breaking. The front pivots didn't break on the 1.0 often, but the arms did frequently. Now, the weakest spot is the pivot, but it takes a lot move to break it.
As for the bulkhead; i inspected mine after 3 months of heavy use and no breakage, but lots of slop. There were hairline cracks on both sides and it was only a matter of time before it failed. I installed my spare and CA'd the cracks for a backup until TLR ships new bulkheads.
I was hoping that TLR was going to beef up the bulkhead slightly and that was the reason for the delay, but I guess not.
10-17-2016, 05:14 PM
#669
Tech Initiate
I'm in the middle of building the front diff and cannot for the life of me get it turning smoothly. I've taken it apart 5 times now. Couple of times it was completely locked up. Right now I got it to spin, but I can feel the gears. The rear went together the first time and is smooth with no binding.
10-17-2016, 05:32 PM
#670
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
I'm in the middle of building the front diff and cannot for the life of me get it turning smoothly. I've taken it apart 5 times now. Couple of times it was completely locked up. Right now I got it to spin, but I can feel the gears. The rear went together the first time and is smooth with no binding.
Both myself and my buddy spit a rear outdrive off the rear diff after 3 or 4 packs. Despite loc-tite on the grub screw, both of us had them come loose. Luckily we found them on the track. I noticed that when I pulled the rear end apart to put the outdrive back on the diff, that I could now snug the outdrive against the diff case and the diff spun freely.
I also noticed that there was significantly less of a notchy feeling to the diff. After reinstalling the outdrives on to the diff with a generous amount of loc-tite, I've not lost an outdrive since then. It seems that this car just needs a few packs run through it to run the drive train in and loosen everything up.
10-17-2016, 05:52 PM
#671
Tech Initiate
When the diffs go together new, you can't have the outdrives tight against the diff case or it will bind them up. I took a .5mm shim and put it between the outdrives and case and then it spun freely. Also, the diffs will have a slightly notchy feeling to them when they are new.
Both myself and my buddy spit a rear outdrive off the rear diff after 3 or 4 packs. Despite loc-tite on the grub screw, both of us had them come loose. Luckily we found them on the track. I noticed that when I pulled the rear end apart to put the outdrive back on the diff, that I could now snug the outdrive against the diff case and the diff spun freely.
I also noticed that there was significantly less of a notchy feeling to the diff. After reinstalling the outdrives on to the diff with a generous amount of loc-tite, I've not lost an outdrive since then. It seems that this car just needs a few packs run through it to run the drive train in and loosen everything up.
Both myself and my buddy spit a rear outdrive off the rear diff after 3 or 4 packs. Despite loc-tite on the grub screw, both of us had them come loose. Luckily we found them on the track. I noticed that when I pulled the rear end apart to put the outdrive back on the diff, that I could now snug the outdrive against the diff case and the diff spun freely.
I also noticed that there was significantly less of a notchy feeling to the diff. After reinstalling the outdrives on to the diff with a generous amount of loc-tite, I've not lost an outdrive since then. It seems that this car just needs a few packs run through it to run the drive train in and loosen everything up.
Thanks
10-17-2016, 05:58 PM
#672
Tech Master
iTrader: (77)
I did the same thing when I built my kit. I rebuilt both the front and rear several time until I felt it was as smooth as I could get them, but they weren't perfect. I'm used to building the 1/8 gear diffs which feel buttery smooth even when new. I texted a few buddies who had built the kit to check with them and they told me the same thing, that theirs felt a bit notchy when new as well. I felt much better after having to reassemble my lost outdrive when I noticed the diff was almost perfectly smooth after 4 packs.
10-18-2016, 11:17 AM
#674
No update to this part. It takes a warranted hit to break it. Infact, you can take a much harder hit on the front end than the 1.0 before breaking. The front pivots didn't break on the 1.0 often, but the arms did frequently. Now, the weakest spot is the pivot, but it takes a lot move to break it.
No updates to the kit, they've just sold better than we ordered
No updates to the kit, they've just sold better than we ordered
#22Empire
