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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!

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Old 06-20-2016, 06:37 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: TLR 22-4 2.0 Race Kit Thread!
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Last edit by: Kraig
Here are some good build tips and notes from b1narych0ice (thank you):

Specific build step comments/warnings, including areas I replaced stock parts -- Think of this as a FAQ that answers questions I had from other builders about each step:

A-3: You can instead use TLR Aluminum Servo Mount here.
A-5: Be sure to get the shorter screw in the correct hole.
A-6: Use a 76 or 78T spur if you are running a 13.5T-21.5T motor instead of the 84 in the kit! and...
A-6: The plastic washer between the pulley and the thrust assembly should be oriented so that the flat side goes toward the pulley, and the side with the ring goes towards the thrust assembly's metal washer. Diagram in instructions is correct, you just can't see that this washer isn't flat on both sides from the illustration.
A-7: Be sure the nut holding the Full-Time 4WD assembly is nice and tight, I have seen it get loose in the 1.0 car!
A-9: Put the gears on the jackshaft before the c-clips, so that you don't have to deal with getting the c-clips off to put the gears on

B-2: It seems to be possible to push the outdrives on so tight that they bind when spun, be sure to ensure that they spin freely as the manual notes.
B-7: You're screwing the 1.3mm screws into metal, don't crank so hard you strip the heads on the screws. While this is metal-on-metal, the manual doesn't call for loctite here.
B-8: The rear diff has fewer/bigger teeth, the front diff has more/smaller teeth.
C-3/C-4: TLR Aluminum Bellcranks and Exotek steering rack can be used here to increase durability/reduce steering slop
C-8: TLR Aluminum A/B Horn can be used to increase durability/reduce steering slop.
D-2: Don't worry about the kingpins sticking out the front even when the nut is tight, the bumper will push them in and keep them there.
D-5: Shock tower screws were the tightest plastic part on my kit, look from the side when tightening down the tower at the gap between the tower and the front bulkhead, tighten until this gap is closed.
D-6/D-7: Don't mix up the CVA pins and the hex pins, should be easy because hex pins are black and CVA pins are silver.
D-8/D-9: Use a toothpick to get threadlock in the metal block instead of applying it to the shoulder bolt, so that you don't get it between the plastic spindle and the metal block.
E-1/E-2: Don't mix up the 10mm pins for the rear hexes with the 11mm pins for the rear CVAs! They are packaged together and both silver, so it's easy to think you just have 4 pins that are the same!
G-1: No need to install the post on the right side if you are running a shorty and use velcro to attach the body to the mud guards. You can move the right post up or down a little so that it snugly fits your shorty battery.
G-2: Aluminum Servo Horn can be used here.
G-4: Adjust the length of the link and the servo horn position so that both the servo horn and the horn on the bellcranks are parallel with each other, and perpendicular with the link.

Hope this helps some of you that are putting your kits together, and thanks to Frank and the TLR crew for a solid kit!

----------------------
Driveshaft Update from Frank - I've reviewed some parts today from stock. The 'issue' part is definitely the rear CVA driveshaft bone. The pin slot is not 90* to the bore for the barrel. We are working to get good parts made and here for CS use ASAP.

Some of the parts I checked were not 100% free, but definitely run-able. Keep in mind that the driveshafts should wear in fairly well, and quickly (within a few packs). If you have a 22-4 2.0 and are experiencing issues with the driveshafts, we won't have good replacements for probably a couple of weeks (no definitive timeline yet), so I would recommend running them on track for 1-2 packs, then rechecking. I think most will free up well.

I am sorry that we are having an issue. Everything was great during samples until production, but we'll make sure to get it right, and make it right for those with the bad parts.
-------------------

What is the proper level for the diffs...i am used to building 8th scale diffs, i would assume its the same?
Just under level. You need some room for the output gear that is in the cap.

----------------------
Frank can u explain what is the difference between the a and b horn, TLR331018?
It isn't the horn, it is the ackermann setting. B will have less off power, better mid corner steering. A will have more off power steering, less mid corner.

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Old 12-30-2018, 04:44 PM
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Tylerís paint looks awesome on the new body!
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Old 01-01-2019, 02:33 PM
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What springs are you using on the 22-4?
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Old 01-01-2019, 06:55 PM
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Red AE fronts and TLR LF Yellow rears
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Old 01-08-2019, 10:26 AM
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Randy can you build my cars for me too????
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:02 AM
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are the aluminum c ackerman arms better than the kit arms or is it more of a feel thing, also what upper link would you use "a" or "b"
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by nikos2002 View Post
Randy can you build my cars for me too????

Love to!!
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jfowler View Post
are the aluminum c ackerman arms better than the kit arms or is it more of a feel thing, also what upper link would you use "a" or "b"
I found the best combination for my local track (medium size, indoor, med-grip clay) to be B ackerman on both the bellcranks and the horn. With A ackerman, the inside turned in far more aggressively and it would really upset the car in corners when rolling on/off throttle. Changing it to B allowed me to sort of "calm down" the aggression of the setup.
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Old 01-11-2019, 07:54 AM
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(wrong section, sorry)

Last edited by SamuraiJack; 01-12-2019 at 07:26 AM.
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Old 01-18-2019, 08:16 PM
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For those running 13.5 how many mAhs are needed for a lipo to make a 5 or 6 minute race?

I have some 4600s that I use for 2wd will they be enough for a 4wd car?

Thanks
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Old 01-18-2019, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by tekin112000 View Post
For those running 13.5 how many mAhs are needed for a lipo to make a 5 or 6 minute race?

I have some 4600s that I use for 2wd will they be enough for a 4wd car?

Thanks
more than enough. I use 3600ís and do just fine.
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Old 01-28-2019, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ttr_racer View Post
And that is why Tekno will continue to dominate certain areas of the market. There are already more ET410's than 2wd stadium trucks at my local track.
yeah but losi has been around the block to know a thing or two, tekno is out there just trying to kick door since there newer. So tlr is being smart and focusing on the better classes and putting there money into that. I was excited about the new truck and there was hype at our track but that has changed. After seeing how they performed and a few months later guys are trading them in to get credit for a 4wd buggy or even get into 1/8 scale. Plus no-one seems to know what to call it , 4wd stadium or truggy so that doesn't help.
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Old 02-02-2019, 10:52 AM
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Any word on the v3 ? Sorry haven't had a chance to read the thread lately
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Old 02-11-2019, 06:48 PM
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I just bought a used 22-4 2.0

I want to mount the rear shocks in front of the rear arms

I found Zeke Ballinger's set up

Team Losi Racing: 22 4.0 rear arms on the 22-4 2.0

I have a couple questions

What does he mean "3mm of external limiters"? Is that just washers that go on the shock shaft outside of the shock body to limit total up travel? Can I use the same limiters as internal TLR5096?

Also he says "The last thing to pay attention too is the rear dog bone engagement into the outdrive. We run the 68mm bone with 1mm axle spacers with the rear ball diff"

Where would I put the spacer, in between the rear axle and the bearing in the hub,and what size is it? Won't that change the dimension for the pin to go into the hex

Thanks for any help you can offer
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Old 02-12-2019, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tekin112000 View Post
I just bought a used 22-4 2.0

What does he mean "3mm of external limiters"? Is that just washers that go on the shock shaft outside of the shock body to limit total up travel? Can I use the same limiters as internal TLR5096?

Also he says "The last thing to pay attention too is the rear dog bone engagement into the outdrive. We run the 68mm bone with 1mm axle spacers with the rear ball diff"

Where would I put the spacer, in between the rear axle and the bearing in the hub,and what size is it? Won't that change the dimension for the pin to go into the hex

Thanks for any help you can offer
You are correct, external limiters go on the outside of the shock body, tlr5096 is the correct part.
The axle spacers are placed on the axle, next to the inside hub bearing. There is no issue with the hex pin, since the axles, hexes and hubs are designed to allow for spacers to be used.

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Old 02-12-2019, 06:38 PM
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Thank you 071
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