I have always found my steering to function best with the servo horn turned one spline clkockwise from 90*.. It behaves more like a true center, relative to the steering bellkcrank. With the setting I usually have very similar end point settings to both sides of the steering throw.

Yes, either clock it one spline over or use the subtrim, the servo horn isn't meant to be truely vertical when the wheels/bellcrank are straight.

I'm new to 2wd buggy and just got a used B6 with a Hobbywing Quickrun 3650 17.5t motor. Car has 72t spur. I'll be running on carpet and unsure of pinion size. Where should I start?

I would start somewhere around a 28 or 29 and see if you need to go up or down depending on the track.

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When you run 2 gears in the diff, do you leave the second empty axle in the diff? Why/why not?

No ..... because a single shaft is strong enough to handle the loads even a 5.5 on high grip carpet/astro can load it with. You would simply be carrying more rotating mass for no good reason.

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Hey Buddy I love how professional your paint job is!! did you do this or do you know who can help me do mine? thanks so much !! bad ass looking buggy!!

Brains trust, question regarding basic build/setup problem I'm having.

Trying to get the front setup but somethings off and for the life of me i can't work it out.

Using the kit measurements for the links (all spot on) then trimming to get the toe equal (which says to me the wheels are straight), the camber is way off on one side, ie left is correct (or very close) but the right is over -3

clearly something's not right, but i have no idea where to look and hoping someone might have a clue about where this might be going wrong

I'm not an expert here, but I'd check the ball studs. Are they in the same locations, and do they have the same number and thickness of spacers? Yes those tiny .5mm washers change the camber more than you would expect.

Yes and yes, thats what's making this difficult. Logically this shouldnt happen if everything is by the book, yet....

I have seen something similar on previous .1 cars, I wonder if there is a tolerance mistake in some molds

​​​​​​In my experience, nothing is perfectly symmetrical. I've learned to trust my camber gauge over the length of the tie rods.

The biggest thing to remember about it, is that it changes as the suspension moves. Make sure your ride height is set left to right, drop the car from the same height, and measure. This part is my opinion, but the number itself doesn't matter. It just need to be set the with the same method each time.

Of course, but this basic setup so it should be pretty close

the trouble with uneven link lengths is that each side moves through different arcs, so different camber and toe changes on each side for any given load. Not good if you're looking for consistency

IMHO if theres a mechanical issue big enough to cause that big a discrepancy it should be pretty much visible from space, but I'm still not seeing anything