Will a aluminum rear arm mount D from a b5m fit a b6?

Maybe, but you can’t use any of the pills and lose all adjustments from the b6 d mount. Spend the $10

I recently switched from tlr 22 4.0 to the associated b6d. Do not regret the switch I really like the way this car handles. Quick question is there any disadvantage geometry wise to running the 22 3.0 and 4.0 front wheels on the b6d? I have quite a few sets of Wheels but just didn't know if they might make the car narrower or wider? I like the design of the wheel also.

22 front wheels are specific to that car...they would make the front of the b6 extremely narrow.

The part fits, but the spacing between the hinge pins is not the same between the two cars so the toe will be incorrect.

Ray

Had a quick ? for you guys that run the B6D on clay... and I did try and search the forum but just couldn't find an answer that was specific to my question.

I run the B6D with the laydown trans on clay, and after 3 race days on it (of which I don't really run a bunch of practice - so say ~12-14 packs) the ball diff is feeling very course, or gritty. The traction on the track is fairly solid, not carpet good but still good traction, and am wondering if the gear diff would be an alternative to the ball diff? Are there some advantages to it, say running a pretty thick oil, over the ball diff? Thoughts? Has anyone run the gear diff on clay with good results?

Thanks for any insight as I'm still trying to get back into off-road racing - and this is also the first time i have ever run a buggy. Very different than a stadium truck like I used to run back in the early-mid '90s.

-Barry

Your diff is either too loose, or your slipper is too tight. I'd take the diff apart, clean everything and reassemble (you'll probably find no parts need replacing this time), if it's not smooth, flip the diff rings over so you have a fresh surface. Tighten it per the instructions and back out the slipper before running it again. Then you can bring up the slipper pressure to where it needs to be.

I really think the ball diff is your best option, but somewhere in the assembly/adjustments , something is amiss............do as the last poster said and rebuild, but I've found the Schelle captured thrust bearing assembly really helps in keeping a smooth feeling diff, and would highly recommend using that in the rebuild.

I'm willing to bet that just the thrust assembly has some dirt in it causing the crunchiness. I think the rest of the diff is fine. The thrust assembly isn't really sealed well from the outside, so fine clay dust can work its way in. You don't even have to remove the diff from the car. Remove, clean, lube, and reassemble the thrust assembly and your diff should be golden for another dozen packs.

I use this... easy maintenance.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...k-2026/p469099

Thanks for the tips and insight everyone, I'm going to take a look tonight. I'll start by looking at the thrust assembly and go from there.

Photoshop

Just gettin folks fired up over nothin