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Team Associated B6 & B6D thread

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Old 06-07-2017, 10:46 AM   -   Wikipost
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Welcome to the B6 Wiki!

Quick links to all the sections on the first page!

Frequently asked questions - the most common questions you may have answered here!

Aftermarket Parts - parts for the B6 and B6D

Tech Tutorials- tuning guides, ball diff and shock building videos and tutorials

How to's and build-specific posts

Team Associated Laydown transmission conversion for B6D:
Laydown conversion

Instruction Manuals:

B6: B6 Manual and setup sheets

B6D: B6D Manual and setup sheets

How to Sand and Seal carbon fiber:
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 2
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 3
Sanding and sealing carbon fiber 4

Charts for Quick reference:

















1) put inner bearing in hub
2) slide large shim over axle all the way up to the back of the axle
3) slide axle/bone into hub carrier
4) slide small shim onto axle through hub carrier
5) push outter bearing into hub carrier

using that i'm able to put my normal male silverback gorilla wheel nut tightening job and there's no binding. in the pictures that come with the shims (the pic socket posted) it seems like they want you to slide both shims onto the axle before sliding the axle into the hub carrier and like i said, that doesn't work.



I've traditionally done the diff screw head on the left side (driver's side), but have since switched to the Right side (passenger side) regardless of transmission type (3 gear RM vs 3 gear MM and 4 gear MM).

Kdub (Kurt Wenger, former AE designer) had this to say on the matter:

Originally Posted by kdub
I think I count as an authority on the matter. I always run my diff screw on the right side (when sitting "inside" the car). I take off the tire and pull the outer hinge pin to get to the adjustment screw.

The right rear is the way the AE manuals state (or used to state). It really shouldn't matter since you go around turns both left and right.
B6D 3-gear:

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Old 01-17-2018, 08:17 PM
  #8236  
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Keep that junk on fb
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:00 AM
  #8237  
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Hey guys.

Quick question about rear shock setup on the b6 for turf.

I purchased a set of kashima bodies from a buddy, and didn't realize until after that the rears are the longer body version. So apparently I need to either shim my diff case up and/or buy the long rear tower.

Does buying the longer tower change anything else on the car or just compensates for the longer body on the shock so I get similar travel? Anything special I need to set up in the shock itself?

Thanks!
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:11 AM
  #8238  
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Associated makes a taller rear tower for the longer bodies. It is a popular upgrade as it allows for a bigger shock. This allows for a shock with more fluid. Nothing changes other then having more fluid, as you still use the stock shock shaft.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:48 AM
  #8239  
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Originally Posted by aracefan
Had a quick ? for you guys that run the B6D on clay... and I did try and search the forum but just couldn't find an answer that was specific to my question.

I run the B6D with the laydown trans on clay, and after 3 race days on it (of which I don't really run a bunch of practice - so say ~12-14 packs) the ball diff is feeling very course, or gritty. The traction on the track is fairly solid, not carpet good but still good traction, and am wondering if the gear diff would be an alternative to the ball diff? Are there some advantages to it, say running a pretty thick oil, over the ball diff? Thoughts? Has anyone run the gear diff on clay with good results?

Thanks for any insight as I'm still trying to get back into off-road racing - and this is also the first time i have ever run a buggy. Very different than a stadium truck like I used to run back in the early-mid '90s.

-Barry
Everyone I know, runs a ball diff. I never have issues with dirt getting in it, on our clay track. If your running Stock, you could eliminate the slipper. That makes it easier to setup the ball diff, as that is the only thing that can slip. You can also order a pre-built Diff. They last a long time. I can not remember the last time I rebuilt my Diff. Must have at least 10 raced days of it, 5 runs each? Then maybe another 10 practices.
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:57 AM
  #8240  
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Originally Posted by cbazq271
Associated makes a taller rear tower for the longer bodies. It is a popular upgrade as it allows for a bigger shock. This allows for a shock with more fluid. Nothing changes other then having more fluid, as you still use the stock shock shaft.
Ok. Thanks for the info. I thought having the larger bodies and the taller tower would change the geometry or something in some weird way.

Will pick that up then and enjoy my longer shock bodies.
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Old 01-19-2018, 09:56 AM
  #8241  
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Originally Posted by sea1swk
You can also order a pre-built Diff.
I would like to get a pre-built diff but with cut gears.
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:01 AM
  #8242  
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Originally Posted by Justin805
I would like to get a pre-built diff but with cut gears.
Pre-built Transmission, cut gears, ceramic bearings, slipper eliminator, titanium screws and pucks!
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Old 01-19-2018, 11:53 AM
  #8243  
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Originally Posted by sea1swk
Pre-built Transmission, cut gears, ceramic bearings, slipper eliminator, titanium screws and pucks!
A new car would be cheaper.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by lexusbest
A new car would be cheaper.
But wouldn't you just have to do the same thing to that one?
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Old 01-19-2018, 03:24 PM
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You don't need to have all the light weight stuff to do well. I'm running a bone stock B6D and the only things not out of the box are black rear springs, alum servo horn and a different body. Came 4th in the A main last meet with a car that doesn't even have Ti screws let alone pucks or anything fancy. Still running the stock slipper too.

I figure I've got the near perfect set up for myself so I'm on the near limit for the cars max performance but I'll just have to be a better driver to do better. If I end up doing anything I'll go for a Ti screw kit and an Mip diff but no pucks.
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Old 01-19-2018, 03:44 PM
  #8246  
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Originally Posted by Silberpfeil
You don't need to have all the light weight stuff to do well.
True but I get bored all week just looking at it on my bench. I get a chance to race once every other week. I'm actually in the process of selling all my other cars and just focusing on this one buggy for the year. Trying to not buy the b64d and just have fun upgrading and tweaking this guy. But I am all about trying to get the best performance per dollar out of upgrades.
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Old 01-19-2018, 07:20 PM
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Old 01-19-2018, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Justin805
But wouldn't you just have to do the same thing to that one?
🤔🤔 no need to buy all that stuff
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Old 01-20-2018, 02:34 AM
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whats that pic^^^^ of ?
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Old 01-20-2018, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
whats that pic^^^^ of ?
Side rails cut behind the Servo for more flex
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