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Thanks for the info. So the measurements of this battery will fit my stock battery holder setup? My thump stews are about at the top with 4600 gens now. Sounds like it will give me the zapp. https://www.amainhobbies.com/protek-...114-17/p539113 I have a 33t pinnion I am gonna run with 72 for racing. Fine dirt has already started to chow my spur. Gonna pick up a new spur before running endo.
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exact fit in B6 with battery holder. just make sure your battery strap side screws (nut part) is flush with top of your pack.
brick square packs work in a B6 too just remove the two screw tabs on battery strap |
I've got my b6d down to 1380 grams without any weight and the front is 39% while the rear is 61%. I run stock expert class at my home track. After weight put where I want it comes out to be 1490 still under legal weight but dam the car is good! Will post pictures later to let you guys see.
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at a track where they don't enforce the 1499-1500g limit. they had a i'm lighter than you weight contest challenge among some drivers.
one B6 17.5 racer had his at 1260g caught bits and pieces on how he got so low, used aluminum ballstuds, turnbuckles, hinge pins, gear diff has plastic gears, aluminum cross pins, car is a mix of alum or ti screws/nuts, no drilling or cutting...just select various after market parts. imo car to me would be fragile. but if you weigh less you impact softer? on carpet lite works, no way on dirt unless high traction type |
Originally Posted by Pinkz
(Post 14928323)
on carpet lite works, no way on dirt unless high traction type
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What is the best front wing to use on the b6d? I ran one on my b5m ce for my stock buggy and liked it. Thought I would do the same on this buggy for mod build...
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Originally Posted by freezeframe007
(Post 14929801)
What is the best front wing to use on the b6d? I ran one on my b5m ce for my stock buggy and liked it. Thought I would do the same on this buggy for mod build...
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Originally Posted by Who is that Guy
(Post 14641385)
Mine has been pretty good. One thing that helps is double up the paper gasket....also put a thin layer of black grease on the gasket and the diff. Once you have it assembled take more black grease and coat the area where the screws are to help seal it up on the outside....works very good !!
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Originally Posted by freezeframe007
(Post 14930067)
Anyone try the green slime? Would that work? My cntr diff in the 44.3 and front/rear on the T3e keep leaking too. Getting ready to build one for the 6d soon
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Originally Posted by Pinkz
(Post 14923860)
racer i know moved his B5M MIP puck diff to his B6. he had to use two shims on it, and a CVA shim set on axle outdrives. like this below
https://www.amainhobbies.com/schelle...hl1230/p519483 don't use shims on B5, use shims on B6? perhaps the shims would allow a steel b5 diff to be used? MIP B6 Diff and Axle Shim Set |
Originally Posted by afm223
(Post 14647773)
With the bi-metal pucks from a B5, lay down tranny, cut gears, full size servo, xr10 juststock, Exotek slipper eliminator, Pro-Line front wing and mount, Pro-Line body, and 2.2 Electrons (everything else stock). My B6D is weighing in at 1496 grams. I'm going to switch to the Hobbywing 3.1 stock spec esc and add a fan to the motor to get it up to legal weight.
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Guys, Exotek slipper eliminator system or Avid/Schelle Triad locking system?
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Originally Posted by jonnymorrow
(Post 14931318)
Guys, Exotek slipper eliminator system or Avid/Schelle Triad locking system?
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Yeah track is turf. Are you saying triad isn't good for high bite? Don't they both just lock?
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exotek new flite short top shaft, and adapter used with aluminum nut and 3 aluminum screws is seriously light. schelle lockout system, have several who use this system at the outdoor astro track i race at. if you stay at one track and just race 17.5 the exotek gives more gear options, downside if you travel to other tracks, switch from 17.5 to mod, you will have to disassemble your gearbox and put in a slipper system, the schelle can be switched back and forth as needed with ease
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