I run the laydown trans with no waterfall, for 2 reasons, increase a little bit of chassis flex, and to be able to move the battery all the way back against the motor.

I bought the hobbywing setup last night and ordered a 29 an 31 tooth pinions. What's Blinky mode? Please excuse me as I'm just getting back into racing after a long hiatus.

Blinky mode just means no timing in the speed control and there is a loght that blinks on the speed control to show that you are in that mode. Since you bought the stock spec it will probably come setup in blinky.
As for your motor, awesome choice for club racing and/or practice, that motor is killer its just not roar legal. I would probably start with the 31 if you are racing, that motor has a ton of torque and will easily pull your buggy around. I usually gear up one tooth when i run a bandit.

b6 front sway bar connector
 

any one know where i can get just the connector for the front sway bar kit for the b6? i had arm break during a race and the connector is gone, was not attached to arm or sway bar. Called associated and you have to buy the entire sway bar kit to get this 1 cent plastic piece, its not sold separately, stupid.:flaming:

I just picked up the schelle screws, but would have gotten those if I had known about it.

just pop the thing out. if u have to use some pliers

How does it jump though? And do you race outdoor on dirt?

I was told to get the X-Gear gold springs for the front of my buggy and X-Gear white for the rear. Does anybody know were I can get these and what the part numbers are?

They're kyosho buggy springs. Kyosho out sources their springs to x gear. Go to wherever you buy car parts and get them. They'll be listed for the big bore buggy shocks.

Thinking about getting The Factory Team FOX Kashima Coated V2 Buggy Front & Rear Shock Bodies. Think they are worth it? Running offroad on carpet.

Can I use the components that came with the kit shocks or what other parts do I need? The websites are a little confusing. Thanks!

I personally like them, feel smoother but not sure if that translates to performance on the track. The gold color does look killer! It's only a coating so just swap out the shock bodies. If you want really smooth shocks go with the chrome shafts.

no your not reading it right, it got lost in wreck, is not attached to the car or the arm on the other side. and associated makes you buy the entire sway bar kit to get this connector if you lose it or it breaks. hate to buy an entire sway bar kit for a 1 cent plastic sway bar connector, that is what i am asking

Only get the ones that are rated 100C or better :p

But seriously, call me old and crusty, but I think Kashima coated shocks are a good example of our hobby going bling crazy. This is a $50+ upgrade to outfit your car front and rear, when the stock shocks have no discernable bind at all when built properly. Note that, for the most part, the shock piston doesn't even come into direct contact with the shock body... there's a very miniscule (but very real) space between the piston edge and the shock body. Sure, the piston will come into incidental contact with it at times, but seriously... it's an R/C car that's running on an imperfect surface (carpet or not) and being driven... well... imperfectly.

I'm a very avid mountain biker, and when I bought my full squish steed a few years back, I was dead set on the Kashima coating. After the novelty wore off, it was pretty obvious it was just that: a novelty. A computer might be able to tell the difference, but I sure can't when I'm shredding jumps, rocks, and tree stumps.

If you lost your shocks or destroyed them and just like the color of the Kashima coating, then sure, spend the extra 30% when replacing them. But just as with the mountain bike shocks, that Kashima coating is a visual upgrade and nothing more. I don't think it makes any sense to dispense with perfectly fine stock shock bodies to replace them with these unless you're being open with yourself about the fact that it's a style upgrade.

I tend to agree with Jason B on this one....coming from a motocross background the Kashima coating doesn't quite make sense to me from a performance stand point. Yes there is a reduction in friction with the coating but it seems like the coating should be on the shaft to reduce sticktion as the shock shaft slides past the o-rings.
Case in point the B6's have a Ti-nitride coating on the shafts and no coating on the shock body.

I understand your frustration but you need to remember that this is an expensive hobby and it takes awhile to get used to this. Manufactures are in this to make money and keep the doors open. Employment cost are constantly rising here in CA and margins are going to be squeezed even tighter for the manufactures which will drive up prices even more. They bundle items for a reason and yes it is 1 cent piece of plastic but think about how many they would have to sell just to make a dollar. Just my two sense. :nod: