racingnewb

iTrader: (7)

mugen or sworkz for upper arms, I never heard about any new AE arms. It was recommended on here the mugen/sworkz for uppers. I was trying a to triple instead of double double a section yesterday like the electrics do but either my lsn was too rich or it just isn't possible but I came up short 6 times or so and didn't break the above mentioned arms. I'm not sure yet but I think the heavy front shock oil may take away some steering, I'm gonna try some lighter shock fluids and see if that helps get some steering back. I will report back

Big_Show

iTrader: (3)

I got to jump my T3E again today. Went to yellow springs on front and 42.5 oil in rear. Still nose diving but not as bad. But instead of the chassis slapping today it looked like the rear shocks was just to stiff. On flat landings the front would just soak it up and the rear tires would bounce up off the ground. So I either have the rear to stiff or I am not stiff enough yet and still slapping the chassis. Will try blue rear springs tomorrow and go from there.

ScottZ

iTrader: (2)

i don't know why you guys have so much trouble jumping mine jumps awesome i run blue rear with 40wt and yellow front with 42.5 wt mine jumps a triple so nice its like its flying

Big_Show

iTrader: (3)

I am close to what you are running now after starting with Rivkins ROAR nats set up. $0 all around and yellow front, blue rears. It is jumping level now, might go back to 42.5 in the front and try it like you are running.

racingnewb

iTrader: (7)

My problem with nose diving was just one particular small jump at my local track. Now that it's getting chilly I switched back to 40f 35r and it seems great w/ vrp's.

KjoTTbein

iTrader: (1)

What is the biggest size battery i can fit in the battery compartment for this truck?

Big_Show

iTrader: (3)

I have Pro Match 8000MAH. Just weigh a few grams more than the SMC 6500MAH's.

KjoTTbein

iTrader: (1)

Could you measure the battery box?

Big_Show

iTrader: (3)

5 5/8" long by 2" wide.

ScottZ

iTrader: (2)

i run the reedy 5500 4 cell fits perfect

LittleNiteFurry

Good evening guys I am looking at getting a new truggy and I am looking at this one or the mugen mbx7tr my ??? Is which one is the most durable out the two truggys in arms issues wise

racingnewb

iTrader: (7)

Arms are cheap so I wouldn't let "arms" decide whether or not to buy a truck. Mugen arms are better than AE upper arms. Both are good trucks

Big_Show

iTrader: (3)

I received my updated shim kits from AE last week and rebuild my diffs last night. Front diff did not have much oil left in it from original build, around 15 runs on the T3E. When I took the quick change cover off I seen where the diff had leaked some. I had hit a tree and broke both right front a arms and bent the axle, so this did not really surprise me. But when I took the quick change cover off the rear diff it was dry, but when I opened the diff itself there was not much oil left inside, enough that the gears was not dry. But sure not over the pins like I filled it when I built it. Center diff same way, dry all around it on the outside, but just enough oil the gears they had a coat of oil but no excess. The oil was for the most part clear looking yet and did not smell burnt in both the rear and center diffs. Where did the oil go? I had it over the pins and had turned the diffs gears around and kept refilling to make sure the diffs was full (1mm over the pins) when I built them.

racingnewb

iTrader: (7)

I never had a problem w/ my v2 diffs till I put the updated shims on the outdrives. My diffs never leaked w/ the manual shims/gasket. I went back to the manual big shim on top of the o-ring. No more leaks for me and I have never had the big washer/shim
cone-out on me. Maybe it's my driving style but I don't see me going back to the updated shims for awhile.

ScottZ

iTrader: (2)

no truble for me either ran great for this summer