Matt - YES it should absolutely be turned around. I looked at that kit as well before deciding to buy a new. For what it's worth Tower Hobbies has a $60 off coupon right now for any spend over $549 and free shipping.

In short, if anything about the build concerns you either because you aren't very handy with a wrench or you question the quality of the build then stay away. Part of the fun in owning and racing hobby grade RC's is the build and maintenance.

If you are new to RC racing and don't enjoy wrenching (you'll learn how if you are so inclined) I'd caution you to reevaluate your decision. Hope this helps - not trying not to come off sounding like a tool!

Cheers and happy racing!

Right. The way I said it was confusing.

Why did you decide to buy new? I am buying used because it is a lot cheaper.

A $549.99 dollar kit, $319.99 for the ESC and motor combo plus the servo is another $99.99 (all based off Amain's pricing). This gives you a total $969.97 and does not include the upgraded graphite servo mount, the Tekno aluminum servo arm, the transponder (another $90.00 item and required if you plan to race) and he also tosses in one of the better bodies in the LFR Assassin. Not even going to brake down the value of the numerous tires and they add up real quick for 1/8th scale.

Only two things to be cautious of, do you trust the person to send that much money? And the servo he chose is real nice for a 1/10th scale but I wouldn't use it myself in my 1/8th scale, at best it puts out 222 oz at 7.4 volts. I would want something well above 300 oz and actually use one that is over 500 oz (pretty over kill honestly).

It is pretty clear that chassis has never been used, not one spec of dust on it and he hasn't chewed up any of the turnbuckles during assembly and even looks to be a pretty clean build. Just assume you'll go through the shock package and diff's as you'll want to be certain they are built correctly, a couple hours of time for peace of mind.

If I didn't already have one in my stable that I can not seem to brake no matter how hard I hit solid objects, I would be all over this item.

I had all of the electronics and really only wanted the roller, plus I'm always skeptical of used electrical gear...nothing against that seller, but I've been around the hobby long enough! Plus I really enjoy building new kits

Don't get me wrong, I think it's a good deal for someone who doesn't have any of the additional gear outside of the roller. If you're going to race then I say pull the trigger and get it, all the pieces he has in the deal are quality items, with great support should you have issues down the road (Tekin is aces when it comes to supporting their gear)!

Happy motoring!

Ok guys thanks for your input I will try to buy the buggy tomorrow probably if I can get a hold of the seller.

First race today with the Tekno. Had very little expectations going in. Track was loose early on in the day. Made the few setup changes I mentioned before:

• 26mm/26mm Ride Height
• Longer rear link, moved to 2 B
• Shocks built with as little rebound as possible
• 7k in the front diff

Car responded great. Took a little getting use to for the first couple of heats but after that my pace was quick than it was with the Mugen. I found the car still a little nervous but I think most of that was due to the track being loose. I found the Tekno faster without having to push as hard as I had to with the Mugen. Took out the win in the final and two heats along the way. I am happy with it now. :)

Which changes made the buggy easier to drive or did they all make it easier. Also how does 7k in the front diff feel to you. And what diff oils did you use for the middle and back. Also what does rebound do in these shocks and what type of feel does it give when you have rebound.

All the changes made the car easier to drive. 7K felt good in the front, wasn't as nervous and accelerated a little quicker. Still running 5k in the centre and rear diffs. I prefer the feel of minimum rebound through the corners. Some prefer more rebound.
I think you should check out these setup guides. I prefer the JQ Guide. Great for beginners and setting up a car.

JQ Guide

Hudy Guide

What would a 1900kv motor do compared to a 2050kv motor do in this buggy? Which motor would you recommend for what type of track?

1900kv is the sweet spot for pretty much any track. Much smoother than the 2050 and you don't give up any noticeable speed.

I run 1800kv Hobbywing. I'd go 1900kv over 2050kv any day. Car is alot easier to drive.

The most popular kv will be 1900. It performs well on all sized tracks. The 2050 will be a little more snappy. I run the 1900 but it is all personal preference. If you are able to try both it would be ideal....1900 will be smoother. They will both be similar.....both would excell on the the same track.just have to adjust gearing.

Has anyone had experience with the new trinity motors? How has your experience been with them? 1700,2000,2300kvs./ Thinking 2000 will be the best bet.... How do they compare to novak and tekin temp and power?

i have been running the trinity 2300 in ebuggy for 5 race meets including one state title, prior to that i was using a tekin 1900 gen 2.

it seems ninety five percent of the comments your read on rctech suggest not going above 2050kv for one reason or another, i thought i would try it for myself and have only had positive experiences with the trinity. its never overheated and has power everywhere you need it, oh and in my experience its low speed power delivery is smoother and more precise than Tekin.