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Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread

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Old 03-13-2017, 12:03 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC EB48.3 Thread
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Welcome to the EB48.3 Wiki


What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

Springs:
Low Grip Track:
TKR8772 – Yellow Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8762 – Grey Low Frequency Front Springs

Low to Medium Grip Track:
TKR8773 – Orange Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8763 – Black Low Frequency Front Springs

Medium to High Grip Track:
TKR8774 - Red Low Frequency Rear Springs and TKR8764 - Pink Low Frequency Front Springs

TKR5199B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, EB/NB/ET/NT48/48.3) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Able to be on power earlier on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6017T (front)
-TKR6061T (rear)

This car is very durable. Here are the spare parts that I recommend you keep on hand:
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR6061T – Rear Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating and TKR6017T – Front Shock Shafts w/ TiNi Coating
TKR5286 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5184 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5194 – Spindle Carriers
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Page 3 Step K-3
Put the screw in upside down so that the head of the screw is in the hex spot that's molded into the spindle. This will aid in clearance in full droop / full steering.

Page 12 Step I-2
Use no less than 4 shims on the steering spindle to limit steering throw. I actually just use one 2mm ball stud washer from my 10th scale stuff since each shim is .5mm.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-02-2016, 12:52 PM
  #1741  
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Originally Posted by littleZEN
Almost finished with mine. Just need to build the shocks and install electronics. It's a nice piece of kit for sure. Every step has it's own bag which I love. Only issue I had was a incorrectly machined and bent screw. Shot an email to Tekno and they are sending me replacements. Everything went smoothly until I got to the turnbuckles. Man those turnbuckles are a #$%^&^ pain to do by hand. If you have a drill use it. Your hands will thank you.
yup, I have a drill and have used it for that many times. Wish I still had my hex drill bits.. something I need to get again
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by littleZEN
Almost finished with mine. Just need to build the shocks and install electronics. It's a nice piece of kit for sure. Every step has it's own bag which I love. Only issue I had was a incorrectly machined and bent screw. Shot an email to Tekno and they are sending me replacements. Everything went smoothly until I got to the turnbuckles. Man those turnbuckles are a #$%^&^ pain to do by hand. If you have a drill use it. Your hands will thank you.
try this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUqK8TyzZIY
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Old 06-02-2016, 08:56 PM
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loving the build so far... goes together very well.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:30 AM
  #1744  
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Best customer service, hands down... car is almost ready
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by clinttredway
hmm, I'll look into that.

another question, are there carbon shock towers for this car?
yes..... absolute hobby sells carbon towers
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Cayne18r
yes..... absolute hobby sells carbon towers
I think those are for the original eb48, NOT the eb48.3
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:01 PM
  #1747  
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First night out with the eb48.3 and it's great!

I'd like to tame down the steering. Our outdoor track is pretty big, pretty sticky, and has a number of mid and high-speed turns. On any of these faster turns, I'd traction roll with 100% steering throw and anything more than about 50% throttle. So, I ended up having to only use about 60-70% of the steering and very delicately use the throttle through these turns. It was costing me tons of time. The rear was a little sketchy as times as well.

I'm using the Bornhorst Souther Nats setup aside from a few minor changes of 9-9-6 diff oils, the rear chassis brace, and the 1.5mm rear diff spacer.

Any ideas on what to change first to tame down the steering?

I was thinking to first lengthen the front camber tie-rods since they're pretty short as is in this setup. Or does anyone have any other suggestions?

I'm guessing that toning down the steering will also at least partially help with the sketchy rear.
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Old 06-04-2016, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Dog Runner
First night out with the eb48.3 and it's great!

I'd like to tame down the steering. Our outdoor track is pretty big, pretty sticky, and has a number of mid and high-speed turns. On any of these faster turns, I'd traction roll with 100% steering throw and anything more than about 50% throttle. So, I ended up having to only use about 60-70% of the steering and very delicately use the throttle through these turns. It was costing me tons of time. The rear was a little sketchy as times as well.

I'm using the Bornhorst Souther Nats setup aside from a few minor changes of 9-9-6 diff oils, the rear chassis brace, and the 1.5mm rear diff spacer.

Any ideas on what to change first to tame down the steering?

I was thinking to first lengthen the front camber tie-rods since they're pretty short as is in this setup. Or does anyone have any other suggestions?

I'm guessing that toning down the steering will also at least partially help with the sketchy rear.
I'm taking my dual rate on the radio down to about 80% and adding some negative expo when the bite comes up. That does the trick nicely. I would suggest assigning a switch on the radio to your dual rate so you can adjust your steering on the fly.
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Old 06-04-2016, 02:34 PM
  #1749  
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First day with the car and I love it. I started with the box setup so I could 'feel' that setup before moving to another. In box setup the car pushes some but is drivable, IMO.

Really impressed with how the car accelerates.. Like an idiot I didn't get the aluminum servo arm with the car and I stripped the stock plastic one.. other than that, the car is built proof so far..
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Old 06-04-2016, 04:21 PM
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Any ideas how to get one of the screws that hold shock to arm out just spins and need to do my shock oil
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Lt hopkins
Any ideas how to get one of the screws that hold shock to arm out just spins and need to do my shock oil
You might get some pliers and pull on the screw as you turn it. Also, make sure you are turning the screws the right way. You have to turn the silver screws clockwise to back them out. If hole in arm is stripped, you might want to replace the arm.
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:05 AM
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Default Grub screws

I don't understand why there are so many grub screws on this buggy. This is my first 1/8 scale buggy build and I dont know if these are for tuning or to prevent the loss of parts if something breaks. The reason I ask is because I have no clue on which ones to tighten all the way or keep them loose.
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Old 06-05-2016, 05:22 AM
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the ones in the front spindle and the rear hubs are to keep the screws/pins in place as a back up if they tried to back out. You don't 'have' to use them, but in 1/8th scales, stuff comes apart more so than in 1/10th... more power, more stress..
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by clinttredway
the ones in the front spindle and the rear hubs are to keep the screws/pins in place as a back up if they tried to back out. You don't 'have' to use them, but in 1/8th scales, stuff comes apart more so than in 1/10th... more power, more stress..
Is it common practice to Loctite all the metal to metal fasteners? I ordered the tekno and should get it this week. Can't wait to build it. Also trying to decide between the smc 4500mah battery or the 6500mah. Its about a 200 gram difference . Is the 6500mah gonna make the buggy handle different? Coming from 1/10 scale 200 grams is an elephant
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:18 AM
  #1755  
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yes, use a small dab on all metal to metal parts. I am using the smc 6500 and car felt great. I wanted the extra capacity for when I have to run a 10min main
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