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Old 02-24-2016, 08:30 PM
  #1396  
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Originally Posted by Scooter79rs
Well, the track just got ripped up this week, if everything goes well. The track will be ready to race on a new layout and clay this Friday. Hoping that my setup will work on it well enough as a starting point. It's good enough that it's actually drivable for me. Kit had too much front grip bias and not enough turn in at low speed. Track has a mix of low and high speed corners.

Been a little busy with the upgrade. Not sure how it will go with a 10.5. Only one way to find out.


I've also done something a little different with my wiring by running the sensor wire under the batteries.

I went from a square pack to shorty and it made a world of difference. The truck seems to handle much better with the lighter battery pushed forward a bit. Those saddles must weigh a ton. Are you going to run a slipper eliminator w/ a 10.5? That seems a bit extreme as well, I don't know as I've never tried to run an eliminator with more than a 13.5. When I did, the traction was immense and even then it was hard to handle. Let us know if that works out with the 10.5.
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:17 AM
  #1397  
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Originally Posted by epounds
12mm is what you're looking for. It's the diameter of the hex adapter on your axles. 8mm and 6.5mm is the thickness of that adapter which affects width of the wheelbase.

I have both 0mm and 3mm offset wheels and they both seem to work. A wider wheelbase should result in a more stable truck, but I do not know of other considerations. I personally have not had functional issues with the 0mm offset wheels I share with an SC10 4x4.
Thanks for the info! So the aluminum hexes everyone keeps mentioning, are those just direct replacements to the plastic ones in the kit? What do I all need to upgrade those to be better? Thanks!
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Old 02-25-2016, 06:11 AM
  #1398  
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They are a direct replacement. I've been running the plastic hexes on mine from day 1 with no issues. Not sure why folks feel the need to replace them other than bling.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:23 AM
  #1399  
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Just picked one of these up last week and ran in the track last night. As it is a stable truck when I'm cornering and jumping, I can't seem to not get loose on the back stretch after half throttle. We run on high bite clay and use primes as the tire of choice. What can I do to not get loose?
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Caveman01
Just picked one of these up last week and ran in the track last night. As it is a stable truck when I'm cornering and jumping, I can't seem to not get loose on the back stretch after half throttle. We run on high bite clay and use primes as the tire of choice. What can I do to not get loose?
Some details may help people trouble shoot your problem a little better. Just saying something like "the truck has the book set up", mentioning what battery and where its mounted, what motor....
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Old 02-25-2016, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
Some details may help people trouble shoot your problem a little better. Just saying something like "the truck has the book set up", mentioning what battery and where its mounted, what motor....
I'm pretty sure it's the box setup have a square pack in it and a 8.5t motor. Anything else that I can tell let me know and I'll do my best.
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:33 AM
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3.5° rear toe, slightly tighter diff, raise the rear roll center (lower the inner link mounting position), turn the power down (adjust EPA on radio), if you are running any ESC timing get rid of it.
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:34 AM
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Make sure you are running the right sauce. If you don't sauce slicks properly they can SUUCCCKKKKK!!!!!
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bds81175
3.5° rear toe, slightly tighter diff, raise the rear roll center (lower the inner link mounting position), turn the power down (adjust EPA on radio), if you are running any ESC timing get rid of it.
Thanks for the tips I'll give them a try and the esc is 0 timing factory. Never even thought about the epa. Oh and one more thing is I'm probably going to use a shorty battery pack. Thanks again.
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Old 02-26-2016, 06:40 AM
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Don't try them all at once. Try them one at a time so you can get a feel for what each adjustment does. And pay attention to your lap times. That is really where the rubber meets the road. If you can't feel one of these adjustments....drive more. That's really the key to all of this.
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Old 02-26-2016, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by jstump
What chassis and other non AE parts are those?
The chassis was a home made one off. Here's the build thread- http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...rt-course.html

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Old 02-26-2016, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bds81175
Don't try them all at once. Try them one at a time so you can get a feel for what each adjustment does. And pay attention to your lap times. That is really where the rubber meets the road. If you can't feel one of these adjustments....drive more. That's really the key to all of this.
Definitely one at a time. Think I'll start with the epa first and go from there. Thanks again I'm sure I'll have more questions later on.
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by QDRHRSE
I went from a square pack to shorty and it made a world of difference. The truck seems to handle much better with the lighter battery pushed forward a bit. Those saddles must weigh a ton. Are you going to run a slipper eliminator w/ a 10.5? That seems a bit extreme as well, I don't know as I've never tried to run an eliminator with more than a 13.5. When I did, the traction was immense and even then it was hard to handle. Let us know if that works out with the 10.5.

For now I had to put the slipper clutch back in, new track layout is slippery. Couldn't even turn at the end of the back straight and not even using full throttle haha

Once the track becomes good and I'm able to put the power down I'll try the slipper bypass again.


I managed to get a 33.4 lap time so far and it was the first race meet on that layout/surface.
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Old 02-27-2016, 03:53 PM
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Default Sc5m conversion to t5m

Apologies in advance if this has been covered. But I'm looking for a list of what is neede to convert my sc5m to a t5m? If anyone has done so and could provide a list with part #. Thanks
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Old 02-27-2016, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kbish76
Apologies in advance if this has been covered. But I'm looking for a list of what is neede to convert my sc5m to a t5m? If anyone has done so and could provide a list with part #. Thanks
Chassis
Chassis cradle
Body mounts
Front axles

https://www.teamassociated.com/cars_and_trucks/RC10T5M/Team/parts_accessories/
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