aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

No spacers are needed

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

correct, but I did end up putting some shims on either side out drives to eliminate some play. Did this on both the B5M and SC5M.

Nortran11

guys, thanks for the info!

Much appreciated

bortp

So I have slowly found time to get the electronics put into my newly built SC5M. I am followed a diff break in and slipper setting guide on rctech, a little different than what I was used to back with my old T3 and B3. I figured I would try a newer technique, even though the mechanics are pretty much the same as they were 10-15 years ago.

Unfortunately I am getting this nasty sound when I apply the brake fast, as well as when I apply full throttle from a quick stop. I know the sound is not good, something is definately wrong. I tried adjusting the diff after I heard the sound to the manual setings, by tightening it and then backing off 1/8 of a turn. Also followed the recommended slipper setting, still the same sound.

If you follow the link, then it will take you to a video I uploaded to youtube.

https://youtu.be/RZ4fzucvrlk

Please help. I really hope I didn't mess anything up. I have heard about diff barking, but have never encountered it back when I used to be in RC. I hope that it is not that, from what I read it can really mess up the diff.

StadiumRC

I watched your video, almost sounds like diff bark to me. Where is your slipper set? When I first started back into the hobby I had this issue with my T4. I set the slipper too tight and I scored my diff rings and had the horrible barking sound on throttle. I now set my slipper loose, then punch the throttle and make small adjustments until I get the launch and traction I want. When set correctly the slipper should slip before the diff does - it should keep your diff from "barking" or slipping.

If your slipper is too loose it could be noisy as well. Start when the nut flush with the screw, or just slightly screwed on a few threads past the nut, place on the ground and punch the throttle. If it doesn't move keep making small adjustments (tighten) until the truck launches correctly. I'm sure others will chime in here too, there are different ways to adjust the slipper but this works for me.

OCDMods

I am sure it's been discussed many times but I ask again . Anyone have one and what's your thoughts on them. Thanks

SlashBash10

iTrader: (2)

I have a ton of slop in the front hubs. Camber can go from +1 (leaning out) to -3 (leaning in). Will B6 caster blocks and steering blocks help reduce slop?

tsair

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone tried to mount an SC10B body on this truck? I'm thinking of getting an SC10B, but would prefer running a more modern, metric platform.

darksiede

iTrader: (2)

You will probably need some parts from the SC5M to make it work-
They are the same basic chassis, and same transmission I believe..
Main differences are going to be in the longer suspension arms and body
mounting bracketry.

tvih

Ugh, such craving for this car again! Did when it was first announced, but then haven't been driving until now again. I do like my SC10 RS and SC10 4x4 FT, but somehow still yearning for a more advanced 2WD. I have a B5M also and it was fun to build it, didn't have that experiece with the SC10s (got the FT used).

The silly part being not having driven all that much with any of the existing cars, should really focus on gaining more experience and at least a reasonable amount of speed (I'm slooooow if I want to stay upright for any reasonable amount of time) rather than getting new stuff :P

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

looking for some suggestions to help with body roll on sharp turns. I have installed both front and rear sway bars. Anyone have a setup for high traction (smaller indoor carpet track) they would recommend?

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

I wouldn't necessarily call "body roll" a handling issue. What exactly do you want your truck to do differently? Typically when grip goes up you would increase oil weight and spring rate. If you are traction rolling you could reduce droop, increase negative camber or a number of other things. How can we help?

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the feedback. To better answer your question when making a hard tight turn the one of the wheels in the rear lifts up off the ground causing the car to flip over most of the time. For example when coming down the back straight away into a hard right turn (almost a 180) the rear right tire will left up several inches off the ground, causing all the weight to transfer to the left side of the truck and then flipping over. Breaking hard in the corner will only make the problem worse.

Looking for any suggestions on what to change or a good base to start on for a small to medium size indoor high traction carpet setup. Thanks

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Also if it helps running gray springs on rear and white springs on front.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Basically what's happening there is you are falling over onto the front outside tire because there is too much grip for the suspension to resist the movement. You need to definitely increase spring rate in front along with oil weight. Check the wheel rates at that point by pushing the chassis to the ground (fully ready to run) and releasing it to make sure the front and rear are rising at about the same rate. You may need to increase the spring and oil in the rear as well to keep the truck balanced. Lower your ride height and if you still have issues reduce droop by adding additional limiters in the shocks under the piston. You can also trim the front tires to help with this issue along with applying tire glue to the outside side wall of the front tire. Anyone else feel free to chime in. I haven't run on carpet in quite a while but this should help.