sluther343

iTrader: (16)

I run Avid +3 with the stock steel hex/axle. I doubt JC is different but somebody else will know for sure.

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Okay cool, that is good to know. Can someone please confirm?

pettyeagles

iTrader: (86)

There is nothing special about the Hazzard wheels. They are just like every other brand of +3mm wheels on the market.

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Okay, so no need to run the front clamping hex or the Front Axle clamping Axle with the Hazard wheels? After looking at Jconcepts website it states the following. So, I guess that answers my question. Thanks

To use the 12mm hex wheel on the orginal SC10 (bearing front/pin rear) it requires JConcepts part # 2081 for the rear and the Team Associated inboard hub hex conversion for front.

Fits:

SC10 F&R with 12mm hex
SC10 4x4 front and rear
SC10B rear
SC5M front and rear
Traxxas Slash 2wd F&R with wide-track suspension kits

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

That's for the original SC10 that had a bearing front wheel and pin rear. You have an SC5M with hex front and rear. The Hazard wheels, both 0 offset and +3 fit the SC5M with no problems or extra parts. Order two of those and you will be fine.

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Perfect, Thank you! So is there no need to run the clamping hex in the rear? Is the rear metal or that plastic hex cap with pin?

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Kit includes plastic rear hexes and a 1 piece steel front axle. The aluminum rear hexes do have some advantages. I run aluminum hexes on all my cars because you never have to worry about pulling the hex off when removing the wheels.

If you can swing a couple extra dollars I would suggest grabbing a coupe different size rear hexes if you go aluminum. I see a lot of people swear up and down that "this is THE one, you HAVE to run these". I disagree. Everyone drives differently, tracks are all different. I dont run 8.5s on my SC5M or my T5M. I tried a couple different sizes and decided on something else. Try a couple and see what works for YOU.

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

That's great info 1/4mile. I am picking up the 8.5 for the rear (I don't care for the plastic Hex) I also run 2-3 classes most of the time and if I need to change a set of tires I don't want to spend a lot of time trying to get a hex back out of a wheel. I'll try these first and if I don't like them I'll try some other sizes?

Am I correct is saying the larger the size the further out it pushes the wheels (Wider Wheelbase). Same holds true for the other way? 5mm would be a narrower wheelbase?

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Wheelbase is the distance between the front and rear axle centerlines. You are talking about track width. But yes, smaller is narrower.

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Yes, that's what I meant. I appreciate all your help!

mxnickj

iTrader: (51)

Yes, pulling the wheels off and the Hex sticking in the wheel is the worst, and 95% of the time when that happens you end up losing the pin also so the clamping hexes just make life so much easier

I never played around with trying different widths because for me personally, I doubt I would ever notice something like 1mm different width. Heck, I could probably run 5mm on one side and 8mm on the other and never notice

tylem28

iTrader: (17)

Added one of these to the collection. Should be a huge improvement over my slash.

How long did it take you all to build? Mine is coming tomorrow and of course I have a local race I'd like to use it at. I won't rush but didn't know if it's like an hour or an all day assembly.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Longer than an hour....Take your time and make sure to get it together right the first time. Should take a few good hours of assembly.

sluther343

iTrader: (16)

It took me at least 6 hours to build mine.

sduffy77

iTrader: (24)

Is anyone running front sway bars, rear sway bars, or both?