tmail55

iTrader: (61)

THANKS for the reply.

Got my SC5M August 2015. The only parts needed to upgrade from the box, was the front gray spring.

I haven't owned a B5 or T5 so I can't speak about them.

man1ac

Had another run after removing the 50g lead at the rear and the BeadLocs.

Thats WAY better. Altough the truck still wants to spin itself when entering highspeed corners, it is much more controllable!

Thanks to Ray for getting the fun back on the SC5m

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

I did the grey fronts, the Lunsford super duties (just because) and the alum rear C and D. Mainly because I had extra ones laying around. The only other thing i did wad f/r sway bars for high grip clay.

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

Great to hear!

Ray

rvrslt1

iTrader: (35)

So does AE have a factory sway bar kit for the SC5M?? If I understand correct it is best to use on a high bite clay track??

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

The B5m swaybar kit for the rear is all that AE offers. Wallie Builds offers a complete front swaybar kit. Look em up on Facebook.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

You can hand make a front sway bar for pretty cheap. Or buy the one from Wallie Builds. The truck definitely drives flatter with 1.6mm front and rear sway bars.


Anyone know a way to make the front bumper last longer. I get about 6 race days out of them. I know some guys are using the sc10 front bumper and modding the front to accept it. I am not really wanting to go that far. The RPM sc10 front bumper might be a bit heavy. I will mount my last spare front bumper this week, just want to get it to last longer. Oh, and not crashing is not an option, lol.

aeRayls

iTrader: (3)

If you're referring to pull in the screws through the front. I finally had this happen. I took one of the washers that came in the kit as a motor screw washer. It's a touch too big, just a touch. I forced it in here with the power screwdriver. Works like a charm.

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

hmm, ok. I have a bunch of crap laying around. I will see if I have washers that will work. And yes, I was referring to the front screws pull through.

twindad98

iTrader: (20)

I've only had this happen one time but that was when I first got the truck and it was nose diving bad off of every jump.

With some setup changes and the driver needing work the truck jumps a lot flatter and I haven't

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I drive buggy also and I am used to scrubbing and pitching the car. If I do that with the truck, it front flips, lol. Very easy to nose down this truck if you are not fully focused. also, we had some crappy jumps that pitched the nose down on the last layout. all that being said, the bump is kinda weak, compared to the rest of the truck. rear arms and bumpers is pretty much all i break.

blvdbuzzard

My brother was driving a RTR SC10. When he worked on it until it was worn out. He broke the chassis and then went to the SC5m. I wore my SC10.2 out, broke the chassis for the 5th time and went to the SC5m. Brother said the SC5M fly's a whole lot better then his old SC10. I am waiting to find out how well it fly's compared to my abused SC10.2.

My old SC10.2 would tuck the nose and do a forward flip if I hit the brakes to hard in the air. Jut letting off the throttle would bring the nose down. I drilled, cut, slotted opening's all over the body and it really did not make much of a difference.

Does the SC5M fly better then the old SC10.2?

Buzz.

sluther343

iTrader: (16)

Mine flys better than my old sc10.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

+1

rvrslt1

iTrader: (35)

I cant keep the nose of my truck down when jumping. What am I doing wrong? I have no issue with the B5M or T5M. SC5M is good the rest of the track but cant get it to jump worth a CRAP!