Team Associated SC5M Thread
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#1622
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Thanks Kraig. The lower pic is from my own truck, the upper one Im not sure.
The sway bar set was originally released for the SC10 and this was the mounting point on that (26mm out). With the SC10.2 a different position was recommended for the new arm, but it was much further inboard and I found was too soft to make the difference I was looking for.
The JC set is no longer in production. Check out Wallie builds on facebook for his kit.
Ray
The JC set is no longer in production. Check out Wallie builds on facebook for his kit.
Ray
#1623
Thanks Kraig. The lower pic is from my own truck, the upper one Im not sure.
The sway bar set was originally released for the SC10 and this was the mounting point on that (26mm out). With the SC10.2 a different position was recommended for the new arm, but it was much further inboard and I found was too soft to make the difference I was looking for.
The JC set is no longer in production. Check out Wallie builds on facebook for his kit.
Ray
The sway bar set was originally released for the SC10 and this was the mounting point on that (26mm out). With the SC10.2 a different position was recommended for the new arm, but it was much further inboard and I found was too soft to make the difference I was looking for.
The JC set is no longer in production. Check out Wallie builds on facebook for his kit.
Ray
#1625
The truck in the upper pic is mine.
#1626
Tech Addict
Had the next Session with my SC5M and still not satisfied. The car improved, its way more controllable compared to the kit setup.
Current "setup" is kit except:
>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>50g at the ball stud mounts
>ball diff opened just 1/8 (it barked way earlier this year a bit, so it MAY be damaged. I opened it, cleaned it and it seems to work flawless
> Hole Shots front and rear, rear has bead locs for added weight
> shorty at rear position
I added our track layout und on both marked spots I loose rear traction. It doenst matter what I do (no brake or anything). Just being faster than a certain speed and even just steering along the corner will cause the rear to loose traction completly. And its not a way which could be controlled. (So no drifting here ) IF I loose traction, I will spin 180°
There are few guys who drive SCs too and even if they follow me they can keep up the speed and dont loose traction (so I am not just TOO fast).
Current "setup" is kit except:
>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>50g at the ball stud mounts
>ball diff opened just 1/8 (it barked way earlier this year a bit, so it MAY be damaged. I opened it, cleaned it and it seems to work flawless
> Hole Shots front and rear, rear has bead locs for added weight
> shorty at rear position
I added our track layout und on both marked spots I loose rear traction. It doenst matter what I do (no brake or anything). Just being faster than a certain speed and even just steering along the corner will cause the rear to loose traction completly. And its not a way which could be controlled. (So no drifting here ) IF I loose traction, I will spin 180°
There are few guys who drive SCs too and even if they follow me they can keep up the speed and dont loose traction (so I am not just TOO fast).
#1627
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Had the next Session with my SC5M and still not satisfied. The car improved, its way more controllable compared to the kit setup.
Current "setup" is kit except:
>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>50g at the ball stud mounts
>ball diff opened just 1/8 (it barked way earlier this year a bit, so it MAY be damaged. I opened it, cleaned it and it seems to work flawless
> Hole Shots front and rear, rear has bead locs for added weight
> shorty at rear position
I added our track layout und on both marked spots I loose rear traction. It doenst matter what I do (no brake or anything). Just being faster than a certain speed and even just steering along the corner will cause the rear to loose traction completly. And its not a way which could be controlled. (So no drifting here ) IF I loose traction, I will spin 180°
There are few guys who drive SCs too and even if they follow me they can keep up the speed and dont loose traction (so I am not just TOO fast).
Current "setup" is kit except:
>front shocks 35wt and grey spring
>rear shocks 30wt and green spring
>50g at the ball stud mounts
>ball diff opened just 1/8 (it barked way earlier this year a bit, so it MAY be damaged. I opened it, cleaned it and it seems to work flawless
> Hole Shots front and rear, rear has bead locs for added weight
> shorty at rear position
I added our track layout und on both marked spots I loose rear traction. It doenst matter what I do (no brake or anything). Just being faster than a certain speed and even just steering along the corner will cause the rear to loose traction completly. And its not a way which could be controlled. (So no drifting here ) IF I loose traction, I will spin 180°
There are few guys who drive SCs too and even if they follow me they can keep up the speed and dont loose traction (so I am not just TOO fast).
I run my front ride height 1mm higher than the rear. In high speed corners you can have trouble if the front rolls too much and tyres grab on the body. With SCT in general, you have to be quite smooth in high speed corners especially if you arent using a front sway bar.
Let me know how you go.
Ray
#1628
Tech Rookie
I published a guide (in french) explaining how to mount the bars : automodelisme.wikeo.net/monter-une-barre-anti-roulis-a-lavant-du-sc5m.html (I'm still not able to publish links :-/)
I details each step (drilling holes at 26mm from the mounting points of the arms, use 3x20mm FHS screws for the bar mounts.
I hope this will help some people :-)
I details each step (drilling holes at 26mm from the mounting points of the arms, use 3x20mm FHS screws for the bar mounts.
I hope this will help some people :-)
#1629
Tech Addict
Looking at the points you have marked, these are both high speed / tightening radius corners. Oversteer in these types of corners is usually due to too much weight at the rear. I would start by reducing the amount of weight you have added to the rear - 50g is a lot. On my truck I run the Brass C block only (which adds about 20g in front of the rear arms) and the weight balance is similar to my SC10 rear motor. If you do add weight behind the rear tower, do it 10g at a time.
I run my front ride height 1mm higher than the rear. In high speed corners you can have trouble if the front rolls too much and tyres grab on the body. With SCT in general, you have to be quite smooth in high speed corners especially if you arent using a front sway bar.
Let me know how you go.
Ray
I run my front ride height 1mm higher than the rear. In high speed corners you can have trouble if the front rolls too much and tyres grab on the body. With SCT in general, you have to be quite smooth in high speed corners especially if you arent using a front sway bar.
Let me know how you go.
Ray
Is it cause by centrifugal forces (you will know what I mean, although I may have named it wrong )
#1630
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
This is basically the reason mid motor is so effective even on looser tracks. I dont find the sc5m needs any more than the brass c block unless it is really slippery, then add brass d.
Ray
#1631
Tech Addict
Our tracks tends to be very slippery especially when its dry. After couple hours of driving you have a nice clean and flat dry clay surface, but beware of leaving the perfect line...its full of dust and "zero grip"
I will go with 15 or 25g, starting with 15g.
(So the same goes for the B5M I suggest? I added 25g (too much?)
I will go with 15 or 25g, starting with 15g.
(So the same goes for the B5M I suggest? I added 25g (too much?)
#1633
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Our tracks tends to be very slippery especially when its dry. After couple hours of driving you have a nice clean and flat dry clay surface, but beware of leaving the perfect line...its full of dust and "zero grip"
I will go with 15 or 25g, starting with 15g.
(So the same goes for the B5M I suggest? I added 25g (too much?)
I will go with 15 or 25g, starting with 15g.
(So the same goes for the B5M I suggest? I added 25g (too much?)
You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.
Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.
#1634
Tech Addict
That sounds very similar to our tracks. You need to be very disciplined in these conditions. I only add weight to the rear if my car is having traction issues exiting low speed corners (especially if you need to clear a jump just after a hairpin). The 5M layout is fantastic on lower grip tracks as the motor is mounted further back than most MM cars, so you have a low yaw inertia but still good weight balance to the rear. With the SC5M the weight balance is actually very similar to the RM SC10 (with the SC10 the motor was behind but the battery sat much further forward). I use the 4 gear and Brass C.
You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.
Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.
You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.
Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.
Thanks guys.
So I will remove the beadlocs and remove my weight altogether. I think I will need some weight at the rear to have some traction as you mentioned, ray. For the 1.7 pistons I would raise the shock oil from 30 to 37.5? Okay...But I think I will leave it there, dont want to change everything at once
#1635
Tech Rookie
That sounds very similar to our tracks. You need to be very disciplined in these conditions. I only add weight to the rear if my car is having traction issues exiting low speed corners (especially if you need to clear a jump just after a hairpin). The 5M layout is fantastic on lower grip tracks as the motor is mounted further back than most MM cars, so you have a low yaw inertia but still good weight balance to the rear. With the SC5M the weight balance is actually very similar to the RM SC10 (with the SC10 the motor was behind but the battery sat much further forward). I use the 4 gear and Brass C.
You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.
Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.
You can try a 1.7 rear piston if you need extra rear traction, with 37wt as a starting point. The 1.7 pistons really add traction but dont land as well.
Agreed, although it can give better control of the truck in the air.
You need to soften springs and put the battery backwards.
I also like using exponential settings on the radio and reduce steering travel a bit (90%) to avoid spinning.