Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

yeah, I tried to lower the ride height with the shock collers, but i didnt like it. The springs flopped around at fell extension. I will probably try for 25/24 ride height and use limiters to get me close. probably 5 limiters front and 3-4 rear.

JasonD

Context: Screw broke inside aluminum wheel hex.

I have the same problem. How did you get the screw out?

Thanks!

loopedeloop

Here's my very loose track setup. We run 10.5T limit.
I use saddle packs never tried shorty packs.
Track is silty dry clay very dusty. I was getting despondent as the truck was awful with the kit setup until I made the following changes

Front is kit setup.
Rear shock oil 30wt
Rear springs green. These are really soft so I ended up using 9mm spring perches.
Brass D mount.
3.5 rear toe.
5gm xtra weight added at each rear block.
Alloy rear hubs.
Alloy front hubs and castor blocks. (Front hubs by integy , very nice takes care of the bearing slop issue).
The added weight was the biggest single improvement I have seen.
Remove all spacers from inner rear camber links to raise roll centre. Do this one at a time and try it out. Roll centre changes made a real difference too.
I run AKA gridiron rear tires. Fronts don't seem to make much difference on my track. Fine pin style tires seem the go to design for our track.

With these changes I have gone from dead last to competitive with the top of the field at our club.

This setup is a work in progress, not the last word in low grip setups.

I hope it works for you.

man1ac

Hey!

Thanks! Will try it out!
I dont have any brass stuff (i think its way too expensive) and will add the weight as lead plates! So I am going to remove the AE31286? Did I get that right? If I look at the hudy setup guide, it tells me that I shouldn't set the rear roll center even higher. I says i should lower it even more, cause I get more rear traction? Or what do I get wrong?

xyzracer

iTrader: (5)

Happened to me, i guess i got lucky and just ran a new screw in the front and it threaded the broken piece out the back.

loopedeloop

No you didn't get it wrong. It's a counter-intuitive change but it really seemed to work.

I think that before the truck was leaning so far into the suspension that it took forever to transfer the weight to the outside tire to get it to grip. I couldn't even come out of a slow turn without spinning. It seemed to wallow in the back. Now it is controllable at least.

Get some tire shop wheel weights for the rear hubs. I drill and mount them under the outer camber link ball stud (12mm thread ones)for want of somewhere better to put them.
Your throttle finger plays a big part on how it runs too.
Just try it and tweak it as you see fit YMMV.

man1ac

Thanks! Will try it out!
Is there any other brass c/d mount surce? The C and D cost around 35$ each here in germany. Thats just wrong.
The EU banned the lead wheel weights, so I'll have to look elsewhere.

The main problem I have is when getting into a corner it feels like the truck wants to deep dive into the corner (like you would have way to much steering). Next moment your rear starts spinning, no traction....I could reverse direction in a second

loopedeloop

I buy all my stuff from A main hobbies in the US. Postage is partially covered by them if you spend above a certain amount and only takes 6 days to New Zealand. They are an awesome shop to deal with.

The new wheel weights are steel. I used 5gm mounted to each rear hub. The brass D weight is behind the axle so biases weight rearward.That really helps to get rid of some steering . I didn't want any weight ahead of rear axle or I would have gotten more steering back

My truck is just starting to understeer a little with this setup so I know I'm on the right track.

Like I said before I'm still working on it I think there's more rear grip there yet. Just have to find it

man1ac

Have thought of that, but with 50$ incl. shipping I'd have to pay taxes and customs and I end up spending 62$ and I would have to drive to the customs office (20miles one way)...

loopedeloop

I guess I'm lucky. We have to spend $300 NZD before we get stung in customs.

man1ac

Here in germany the value is 30$ incl. shipping. So almost nothing.
But it seems there is no alternative source for the brass arm mounts? No schelle or avid or anything....thats bad

Socket

iTrader: (61)

schelle makes a steel C mount.

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

Anybody have Kinwald's setup from the cactus classic?

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

it would not help you. lots of custom stuff.

RC*PHREAK

iTrader: (146)

did he run buggy shocks and towers?