1stPlaceAllDay

very little torsional "twist" and no flex in the middle. i gotta say since the sides of the original chassis bend up the stock rails dont lay flat..but do snug downwhen you screw them down to the flat carbon chassis..

Hasi

Would've had to order overseas so the customs duty would've raised the price at a higher level local prices are. In addition, I ordered mine at a christmas sale with 10% off so there would've been a difference of about 70 bucks or more... since I'm just club racing I don't feel the need to order at such a higher price just to get the car.



Thanks for the reply Guess I'm placing an order then.

Cridd

iTrader: (16)

+1

man1ac

Just stocking up everything I need for the upcoming season (although it started snowing just now). Anynone some ideas on what parts I might break? I havent broken anything all winter, just 1 chassis head due to a very unlucky slide down a jump onto a wooden plank...

I could upgrade some stuff for improved handling AND durability (no bling blling wanted )

> Front Arms (71008)
> Front Bulk Head (91364) **
> Front Hinge Pin Brace (91371) (Is the aluinium for 4times the price really worth it?)**
> Aluminium steering set (91392)** (really worth it? costs lots of bucks)
> Front Caster Block (91400)**
> Steering Block set (91404)**

All parts listed ** could be used with my B5R...so thats a plus
Any other parts that I should have?Which ones wear out fast (steering blocks?) Or any other aluminium upgrades that are really worth their money?

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

I would go with brass bulk head for tunning when u need more over the front wheels
Steering set isnt needed but makes it feel alot less flexi threw a turn
As spares i say arms casters and steering blocks suould be good

man1ac

Thanks! The Brass Bulkhead (91365) costs nearly 50$ here in germany...thats either worth the money nor a good deal...

MaX-D

iTrader: (2)

Yes, sc10 hex. I run Proline beadlocks with strc aluminum beadlock rings with a 8.5T motor, and I've never had a Tire bead come out of them. You won't need glue. They're awesome and always turn true, no wobble. I suck at gluing Tires. Always had at least two wobbly Tires. I gave up. With the Tires mounted and aluminium rings, it only weighs 1.4oz more than a glued Tire. I can't tell the difference. With a cordless screw gun, I can change Tires if I need to in 4-5 mins per wheel More than enough time in between races.

1/4milecrazy

iTrader: (5)

Run the plastic bulkheads. 'you will break a lot more expensive parts with brass or aluminum.

1stPlaceAllDay

is there a 8.5mm to 17mm hex adapter for the sc5m?

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

You mean 12mm to 17mm hex adapter?

1stPlaceAllDay

maybe..the the sc5m 12mm or 8.5? i want to run 17mm wheels

Wildcat1971

iTrader: (84)

Avid just released their updated bell cranks for the B5/T5M/SC5M Series.

http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html

Flip boy

iTrader: (1)

Wahooooo

1stPlaceAllDay

are these recomended to adapt 17mm wheels to my sc5m ?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/272060370114....N36.S2.R1.TR9

Jade67

iTrader: (5)

I have searched and read through a lot of this thread before deciding to asking for some advice...

I have a SC5M that I have a love/hate relationship with. It reminds me a lot of a sour patch kid in the aspect that sometimes its sour and sometimes its sweet.

I bought the kit right after it came out with the intention of running it for a stock SC points series which it did well enough in, ended up 3rd overall but the truck has always been unpredictable. I decided not to run it after the point series unless they needed a fill in for 2wd.

I recently decided to give it another crack and set it up for Mod 2wd SC. I will be posting my actual build sheet for review. Any advice would be great. It is basically Cav's setup with a few changes.

What I am fighting is the truck has a tendency to nose over and sometimes roll on corner entry and the rear end breaks loose on exit. I am also having a hard time getting the nose to drop in the air unless I am scrubbing the take off and countering it with a little throttle in the air.

I am currently running 37.5wt 1.5pistons in the front shocks with Grey Springs and 30wt 1.6pistons in the rear with Factory springs. I have both the Brass C/D mounts installed. I am running a shorty battery with the 50gr weight under the battery. Battery is sitting about 6-7mm forward from rear of truck. NOTE: I have not run the truck since adding the 50gr weight under the battery.

I also should note that I am racing on indoor high bite clay at IR/CR (Intermountain R/C Raceway).