cryofix

iTrader: (11)

official page http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dex8t/


here is my poor excuse at photography during my build
http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20...080059_HDR.jpg
http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_214325.jpg
http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_140107.jpg
http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_125545.jpg
http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_132934.jpg


I put together a spares list for now, this list goes from must have, to nice to have in your box, does not include maintenance items that can be ordered or bought as needed
The list also compares part to the Truggy with a difference in price. Items in red are not compatible
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

All 3 diffs can individually be pulled out in 30 seconds or less
Pre-assembled parts should help this car hit the track with less build mistakes.


***** NOTES *****
The front bumper on the buggy has two standoffs on it, each standoff is positioned right over the insert on either side, if you nose dive to hard or hit the front awkward the standoffs can push your hinge pin through the back insert.
The fix is to dremel off the standoffs.

Make sure to loktite your motor screws, some have had their motors back out and strip the spurs.

MUST HAVE: TD310482 Diff Pins, this is the pin that goes into the middle differential front outdrive, if the screw should back out it pin could fall out.


Bearings list
Rear
Carrier Inner TD601027 15x21x4 (2) Outer TD601005 8x16x5 (2)
Diff TD601005 8x16x5 (2)
Ring Gear Inner TD601026 8x19x6 (1) Outer TD601013 5x11x4 (1)

Center Diff
Diff ends Rear 8x16x5 Front TD601005 10x16x5 (1)

Front
Steering TD601004 (4) 6x10x3
Carrier Inner 15x21x4 Outer TD601005 8x16x5 (2)
Diff TD601005 8x16x5 (2)
Ring Inner TD601026 8x19x6 (1) Outer TD601013 5x11x4 (1)

Totals
5x11x4 (2)
15x21x4 (4)
8x19x6 (2)
8x16x5 (9)
6x10x3 (4)
10x16x5 (1)

Lower front suspension arm spacers:
MUGE0161 these are metal washers that allow the shoulder of the pivot ball to dissipate energy more evenly (6mmx14mmx1)

Aluminum servo horns:
Great option here:
Tekno Horn
I use this on my buggy and truggy.

TD part, still on back order
#TD340122 #TD340123 #TD340124

Option that can be used from the Typhoon:
Aluminum servo horn Arrma Part (AR340061) Great Planes (ARAC8904) looks tougher than the standard plastic and has the correct geometry


Blue O-Rings for shock rebuilds:
Some are saying that the blue O-rings are smoother than the stock red ones, I have tried these and feel there is less "stickiness" with these rings.
Here is the part number:
TD330611

Shock build options:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/14014032-post310.html
Bladders are TDR330589

Springs
In case anyone is looking for option springs it has been found that the Tekno springs and Mugen springs do work, both are a bit snug on either the perch or the shock nut.

Spring Chart
Thanks to Cain
Gearing
From Ekt:
http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...8&page=gearing

Skid Plates
Chris Attebery put together some nice stainless skid plates
http://www.ape-rc.com/#!/Durango-Par...=0&sort=normal


**Note:
The Arrma RTR series are very similar in design but are not the same car at all, the Durango is Race Spec, different in many ways.

rcmania74

iTrader: (60)

Thought I'd see alot of discussion on this thread. ..Was thinking about buying one.

Orph3o

Hi, just finished my built!

I don't have this issue on the rear, however spring collar is at the bottom (not much tuning).
fairly easy built, Just dis a maiden ride today, feels a bit too "mellow/smooth" at this point, I will probably increase oil thickness.
Stance was quite good out of the box.

Track is only opening in a week so I won't be able to experiment much.

Just need to figure out gear ratio (can't find it anywhere) and push the motor a little more. maybe will start a thread

How do you like yours?

richmtb01

I just finished building mine and I ran into the same rear spring issues. I contacted TD and they're sending me a new set of rear springs, although I'm not sure if mine were wrong or what. The spring rate feels good, but like you, they're turned all the way down.

rcmania74

iTrader: (60)

Any more builds?

cryofix

iTrader: (11)

I am using an 18 tooth on 2000kv Truggy motor.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

any more race info?

carrotcake

Thanks for starting up the DEX8T thread. Thought I was the only one that bought the DEX8T (exaggerating..), but seems quiet about this Truck on the net. I like the TD brand. Anyway, I see a few have problems with the rear springs? Is it because the rear springs that were provided are too soft? Anyway, I'm going to follow up with TD. Thanks for the info.

cryofix

iTrader: (11)

All, I not only had a problem with the rear springs but the front as well.

Ride height is supposed to be set to 38 front 40 rear. I couldnt get my front springs to get to 38, 36 was max, the rear was bad, I got to about 34.

******* NOTE: The mugen springs are a bit tight on the preload nut so we took them off and flipped them upside down so there was no binding. Bottom perch fits not problem.

Mugen springs work. 86/86 front and back The front shocks for the Durango are longer than the Mugen so Mugen front springs dont work.

86 length 8.0 turn for the front and back. This combo was not ideal but it worked. I raced at a ROAR point series event this weekend and I was up to 3rd place in the B with 2nd right in front of me and I could not hold it together, I had 2nd if I was a bit smoother. The truggy was just awesome.

I also had an x mugen guy take a look and help me with turn in on the truggy. I went with 2 dot, hole up, active caster, insert stock, piointing inside. This actually made the truck turn in better for me and rotate nice. The only problem was I was not used this style and I needed to be smoother on power out of the corners or the truggy could step out.

We will work on the rear when I have some time but this truggy has become my new favorite vehichle.

Orph3o

Sent a mail to TD last week about the springs without answer yet.

I also need to find out how to limit nose lifting on acceleration, it is a bit too much. Any suggestions would be amazing.

rpboggs1

iTrader: (19)

Did you try limiting your front droop? That's usually the first thing I do to get more on power steering. Or are you seeing that your diff is unloading on the front tires causing them to balloon?

carrotcake

In my case, basically they mistakenly placed the front shocks for my rears. A correct set of springs are being mailed to me. Just FYI guys.

Orph3o

Plan was to limit droop a bit this confirms it should be a needed operation.

As for the unloading, I am running 10k wgt (ofna) diff oil, what I used in my 8ight T. Still looking for a conversion table (cst -> wgt).
Would you suggest a thinner oild?

Wheels are holding on the ground nicely, it's just that the nose goes up fairly fast and I don't remember this behavior from my previous truggy.

Was just doing a basic check on my build in the park in front of my house. Super traction, but by the end (25secs), when the truck comes back at low speed, you can see the nose poping up (That's my 7 years old driving there, that's why it wheelies in the beginning).
https://youtu.be/A4ia7OKtj90


Thanks

Orph3o

Shocks or springs i am a bit confused!

I have re-sent a mail yesterday to Team Durango ('[email protected]') who did you contact?


Thanks!

Cain

iTrader: (294)

try [email protected] and [email protected] . They may be able to help you or at least direct you to the right people.

Once I got in touch with the right people they were more than happy to help. The stuff I had issues with will be shipping to me in about 3 weeks which for me isn't an issue.