Team Durango DEX8T
official page http://www.team-durango.com/race-cars/dex8t/
here is my poor excuse at photography during my build http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20...080059_HDR.jpg http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_214325.jpg http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_140107.jpg http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_125545.jpg http://tandlracing.com/out/truggy/20150424_132934.jpg I put together a spares list for now, this list goes from must have, to nice to have in your box, does not include maintenance items that can be ordered or bought as needed The list also compares part to the Truggy with a difference in price. Items in red are not compatible https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing All 3 diffs can individually be pulled out in 30 seconds or less Pre-assembled parts should help this car hit the track with less build mistakes. ***** NOTES ***** The front bumper on the buggy has two standoffs on it, each standoff is positioned right over the insert on either side, if you nose dive to hard or hit the front awkward the standoffs can push your hinge pin through the back insert. The fix is to dremel off the standoffs. Make sure to loktite your motor screws, some have had their motors back out and strip the spurs. MUST HAVE: TD310482 Diff Pins, this is the pin that goes into the middle differential front outdrive, if the screw should back out it pin could fall out. Bearings list Rear Carrier Inner TD601027 15x21x4 (2) Outer TD601005 8x16x5 (2) Diff TD601005 8x16x5 (2) Ring Gear Inner TD601026 8x19x6 (1) Outer TD601013 5x11x4 (1) Center Diff Diff ends Rear 8x16x5 Front TD601005 10x16x5 (1) Front Steering TD601004 (4) 6x10x3 Carrier Inner 15x21x4 Outer TD601005 8x16x5 (2) Diff TD601005 8x16x5 (2) Ring Inner TD601026 8x19x6 (1) Outer TD601013 5x11x4 (1) Totals 5x11x4 (2) 15x21x4 (4) 8x19x6 (2) 8x16x5 (9) 6x10x3 (4) 10x16x5 (1) Lower front suspension arm spacers: MUGE0161 these are metal washers that allow the shoulder of the pivot ball to dissipate energy more evenly (6mmx14mmx1) Aluminum servo horns: Great option here: Tekno Horn I use this on my buggy and truggy. TD part, still on back order #TD340122 #TD340123 #TD340124 Option that can be used from the Typhoon: Aluminum servo horn Arrma Part (AR340061) Great Planes (ARAC8904) looks tougher than the standard plastic and has the correct geometry Blue O-Rings for shock rebuilds: Some are saying that the blue O-rings are smoother than the stock red ones, I have tried these and feel there is less "stickiness" with these rings. Here is the part number: TD330611 Shock build options: http://www.rctech.net/forum/14014032-post310.html Bladders are TDR330589 Springs In case anyone is looking for option springs it has been found that the Tekno springs and Mugen springs do work, both are a bit snug on either the perch or the shock nut. Spring Chart Thanks to Cain Code:
Part # Length Color GF/MM LBS/IN From Ekt: http://durangofansite.com/main.php?v...8&page=gearing Skid Plates Chris Attebery put together some nice stainless skid plates http://www.ape-rc.com/#!/Durango-Par...=0&sort=normal **Note: The Arrma RTR series are very similar in design but are not the same car at all, the Durango is Race Spec, different in many ways. |
Thought I'd see alot of discussion on this thread. ..Was thinking about buying one.
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Hi, just finished my built!
I don't have this issue on the rear, however spring collar is at the bottom (not much tuning). fairly easy built, Just dis a maiden ride today, feels a bit too "mellow/smooth" at this point, I will probably increase oil thickness. Stance was quite good out of the box. Track is only opening in a week so I won't be able to experiment much. Just need to figure out gear ratio (can't find it anywhere) :) and push the motor a little more. maybe will start a thread :D How do you like yours? |
I just finished building mine and I ran into the same rear spring issues. I contacted TD and they're sending me a new set of rear springs, although I'm not sure if mine were wrong or what. The spring rate feels good, but like you, they're turned all the way down.
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Any more builds?
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I am using an 18 tooth on 2000kv Truggy motor.
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any more race info?
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Thanks for starting up the DEX8T thread. Thought I was the only one that bought the DEX8T (exaggerating..), but seems quiet about this Truck on the net. I like the TD brand. Anyway, I see a few have problems with the rear springs? Is it because the rear springs that were provided are too soft? Anyway, I'm going to follow up with TD. Thanks for the info.
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All, I not only had a problem with the rear springs but the front as well.
Ride height is supposed to be set to 38 front 40 rear. I couldnt get my front springs to get to 38, 36 was max, the rear was bad, I got to about 34. ******* NOTE: The mugen springs are a bit tight on the preload nut so we took them off and flipped them upside down so there was no binding. Bottom perch fits not problem. Mugen springs work. 86/86 front and back The front shocks for the Durango are longer than the Mugen so Mugen front springs dont work. 86 length 8.0 turn for the front and back. This combo was not ideal but it worked. I raced at a ROAR point series event this weekend and I was up to 3rd place in the B with 2nd right in front of me and I could not hold it together, I had 2nd if I was a bit smoother. The truggy was just awesome. I also had an x mugen guy take a look and help me with turn in on the truggy. I went with 2 dot, hole up, active caster, insert stock, piointing inside. This actually made the truck turn in better for me and rotate nice. The only problem was I was not used this style and I needed to be smoother on power out of the corners or the truggy could step out. We will work on the rear when I have some time but this truggy has become my new favorite vehichle. |
Sent a mail to TD last week about the springs without answer yet.
I also need to find out how to limit nose lifting on acceleration, it is a bit too much. Any suggestions would be amazing. |
Originally Posted by Orph3o
(Post 13992737)
Sent a mail to TD last week about the springs without answer yet.
I also need to find out how to limit nose lifting on acceleration, it is a bit too much. Any suggestions would be amazing. |
In my case, basically they mistakenly placed the front shocks for my rears. A correct set of springs are being mailed to me. Just FYI guys.
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1
(Post 13993014)
Did you try limiting your front droop? That's usually the first thing I do to get more on power steering. Or are you seeing that your diff is unloading on the front tires causing them to balloon?
As for the unloading, I am running 10k wgt (ofna) diff oil, what I used in my 8ight T. Still looking for a conversion table (cst -> wgt). Would you suggest a thinner oild? Wheels are holding on the ground nicely, it's just that the nose goes up fairly fast and I don't remember this behavior from my previous truggy. Was just doing a basic check on my build in the park in front of my house. Super traction, but by the end (25secs), when the truck comes back at low speed, you can see the nose poping up (That's my 7 years old driving there, that's why it wheelies in the beginning). https://youtu.be/A4ia7OKtj90 Thanks |
Originally Posted by carrotcake
(Post 13993340)
In my case, basically they mistakenly placed the front shocks for my rears. A correct set of springs are being mailed to me. Just FYI guys.
I have re-sent a mail yesterday to Team Durango ('[email protected]') who did you contact? Thanks! |
try [email protected] and [email protected] . They may be able to help you or at least direct you to the right people.
Once I got in touch with the right people they were more than happy to help. The stuff I had issues with will be shipping to me in about 3 weeks which for me isn't an issue. |
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