Its not lol

I run the Viper as well.

So we need to work it via setup so it works well like the losi's I ran against without push control on there rides too

Its doable for sure, even if the final touch is the battery tray mod which I will have on hand if needed. But ultimately I feel my setup just was off basically.

Push Control is the exact opposite of Drag Brake. Instead of braking when you let off the throttle, Push Control "pushes" the car with a little power still applied to the motor to achieve better coasting, and reduces nose dives when going off a jump and letting off the throttle. You can also just learn how your vehicle likes to jump and leave your finger on the throttle slightly.

WOW thanx sir.

+1

You can also adjust your throttle neutral point on your radio to have the similar effect. The wheels will spin some when lifted off the ground but it will not be enough to move the vehicle when its placed on the ground. The speed control adjustment does it a little better because it only kicks in when the throttle is returning.

The rx8 manual says push control is only available in brushed mode . In brushless mode , led 2 is brake strength . How are you overcoming this built in software ? Or is the Tekin Manual wrong ?


LED2 (IN BRUSHLESS MODE): REV/BRAKE STRENGTH adjusts your maximum brake strength and reverse speed when in brushless mode. Higher values increase brake strength and increase reverse speed.
LED2 (BRUSHED MODE): PUSH CONTROL or ANTI-DRAG overcomes the natural drag of a brushed motor when throttle returns to neutral. Low values give you a short duration push, higher values a longer duration push.

Found it ... Its in the hotwire . Not programmable on the esc...

This is very true, and most racers these days don't stop to think about this aspect when they add new shiny parts to their vehicles. That said, with the esc technology we have and the higher traction we (usually) are seeing these days, its easy to accommodate for this difference in drivetrain weight. Especially in this class, having a lighter weight drivetrain is also beneficial because it will increase runtimes and put less strain on your power system. The new truck will be awesome!

for me at least, the area in question push control or similar throttle finger action wouldn't and didn't work. Just something inherent to setup in my opinion. BUt I hope to fix that this next go around.

I found it necessary to run very tall gearing in order to rectify the nose down condition with throttle. A couple teeth higher than you normally would use. It's not 100% fix, but it does help noticably.

For those of us maybe planning on purchasing a new kit, rather than updating our existing trucks, what are you planning on keeping, that may not be in the .3 kit? Servo horn is obvious, but what about air guards or your shocks pistons (just installed the new 6x1.5's in mine).

The updates will be what everyone is after. The .3 can also be toughened up. It will benefit from some alloy hingle pin holders, I will also buy an alloy servo arm and maybe an alloy ackerman plate too, other that that it should be tough as nails.

Plan on experimenting with pistons and/or springs to find the sweet spot for your track.

The team guys have been testing the .3 parts for a while now. And they have already wont some really big races with them. The kit setup should be a great all around starting point for most drivers. There is not a need to have this part or that to get this truck on the track. Im guessing.. An aluminum servo horn with the spline you need it gonna be about it. Maybe a few tuning options as you get to different tracks or conditions as with the case of any other RC vehicle.
regarding the "kick" off of jumps.. It most certainly is caused by bottoming off the face of a jump. But if you look at whats really happening, it usually caused by the front wheels clearing the lip as the rear is rebounding. Several fixes can help
1. bandaid fix is to add a stiffer rear spring.
2. Go thicker rear oil..
3. Increase ride height

all these will work to some degree, but have a penalty somewhere along the way. Usually in a loss of rear grip or unbalanced setup

Instead of changing the setup, why not change yer driving ? Approach jumps that have a short face or are high speed in coast / off power ( not max speed either) and squeeze throttle while going off the face. I am not an RC master, but this has worked for me on 95% of the situations I needed it to. It sometimes takes a conscious effort to tell myself to "let off the gas" before a big jump but when done properly it works.
Just sayin

From the testing I am curious to see how durable the hingepin braces are in composite, but I may just buy (depending on how they are sold) an alloy one for the FF and one for the RR.

As for the options to fix nose down, etc I think what you are saying has validity, the problem is doing this in a manner that maintains similar speeds to the competition.

It kind of reminds me of what sc10 4x4 drivers would do to get around bigger 1/8 tracks. they would roll a double or triples versus other vehicles just taking them, eventually, you lose time because of this and if competition is close, it is a liability.

But again I believe the older vehicle could solve these issues with some tuning or the battery tray mod. I do wish this version did have the tray mod done, but that is why I held on to that part to use


As for stuff to keep from the old vehicle, other than pistons and additional sway bars, not thinking of too much else I am keeping / kept.

One thing I am gonna be curious about is if I can do the same kind of steering mod I did before to raise up the position of the servo horn to work with regular servo horns. I don't see any problem why what I have done won't, but curious non the less.

Hmmmm, seems like some good things going on here.

This also made a noticeable difference for me, along with a few minor setup changes discussed before over the issue.