219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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03-20-2015, 11:10 AM
#61
Its not lol
I run the Viper as well.
So we need to work it via setup so it works well like the losi's I ran against without push control on there rides too
Its doable for sure, even if the final touch is the battery tray mod which I will have on hand if needed. But ultimately I feel my setup just was off basically.
I run the Viper as well.
So we need to work it via setup so it works well like the losi's I ran against without push control on there rides too
Its doable for sure, even if the final touch is the battery tray mod which I will have on hand if needed. But ultimately I feel my setup just was off basically.
03-20-2015, 11:10 AM
#62
Push Control is the exact opposite of Drag Brake. Instead of braking when you let off the throttle, Push Control "pushes" the car with a little power still applied to the motor to achieve better coasting, and reduces nose dives when going off a jump and letting off the throttle. You can also just learn how your vehicle likes to jump and leave your finger on the throttle slightly.
03-20-2015, 11:15 AM
#63
Push Control is the exact opposite of Drag Brake. Instead of braking when you let off the throttle, Push Control "pushes" the car with a little power still applied to the motor to achieve better coasting, and reduces nose dives when going off a jump and letting off the throttle. You can also just learn how your vehicle likes to jump and leave your finger on the throttle slightly.
03-20-2015, 11:25 AM
#64
Push Control is the exact opposite of Drag Brake. Instead of braking when you let off the throttle, Push Control "pushes" the car with a little power still applied to the motor to achieve better coasting, and reduces nose dives when going off a jump and letting off the throttle. You can also just learn how your vehicle likes to jump and leave your finger on the throttle slightly.
You can also adjust your throttle neutral point on your radio to have the similar effect. The wheels will spin some when lifted off the ground but it will not be enough to move the vehicle when its placed on the ground. The speed control adjustment does it a little better because it only kicks in when the throttle is returning.
03-20-2015, 11:32 AM
#65
The rx8 manual says push control is only available in brushed mode . In brushless mode , led 2 is brake strength . How are you overcoming this built in software ? Or is the Tekin Manual wrong ?
LED2 (IN BRUSHLESS MODE): REV/BRAKE STRENGTH adjusts your maximum brake strength and reverse speed when in brushless mode. Higher values increase brake strength and increase reverse speed.
LED2 (BRUSHED MODE): PUSH CONTROL or ANTI-DRAG overcomes the natural drag of a brushed motor when throttle returns to neutral. Low values give you a short duration push, higher values a longer duration push.
LED2 (IN BRUSHLESS MODE): REV/BRAKE STRENGTH adjusts your maximum brake strength and reverse speed when in brushless mode. Higher values increase brake strength and increase reverse speed.
LED2 (BRUSHED MODE): PUSH CONTROL or ANTI-DRAG overcomes the natural drag of a brushed motor when throttle returns to neutral. Low values give you a short duration push, higher values a longer duration push.
03-20-2015, 12:27 PM
#67
The new truck will be awesome!
03-20-2015, 02:12 PM
#69
I found it necessary to run very tall gearing in order to rectify the nose down condition with throttle. A couple teeth higher than you normally would use. It's not 100% fix, but it does help noticably.
03-20-2015, 06:29 PM
#70
For those of us maybe planning on purchasing a new kit, rather than updating our existing trucks, what are you planning on keeping, that may not be in the .3 kit? Servo horn is obvious, but what about air guards or your shocks pistons (just installed the new 6x1.5's in mine).
03-20-2015, 09:03 PM
#71
For those of us maybe planning on purchasing a new kit, rather than updating our existing trucks, what are you planning on keeping, that may not be in the .3 kit? Servo horn is obvious, but what about air guards or your shocks pistons (just installed the new 6x1.5's in mine).
pin holders, I will also buy an alloy servo arm and maybe an alloy ackerman plate too, other that that it should be tough as nails. Plan on experimenting with pistons and/or springs to find the sweet spot for your track.
03-20-2015, 09:34 PM
#72
The team guys have been testing the .3 parts for a while now. And they have already wont some really big races with them. The kit setup should be a great all around starting point for most drivers. There is not a need to have this part or that to get this truck on the track. Im guessing.. An aluminum servo horn with the spline you need it gonna be about it. Maybe a few tuning options as you get to different tracks or conditions as with the case of any other RC vehicle.
regarding the "kick" off of jumps.. It most certainly is caused by bottoming off the face of a jump. But if you look at whats really happening, it usually caused by the front wheels clearing the lip as the rear is rebounding. Several fixes can help
1. bandaid fix is to add a stiffer rear spring.
2. Go thicker rear oil..
3. Increase ride height
all these will work to some degree, but have a penalty somewhere along the way. Usually in a loss of rear grip or unbalanced setup
Instead of changing the setup, why not change yer driving ? Approach jumps that have a short face or are high speed in coast / off power ( not max speed either) and squeeze throttle while going off the face. I am not an RC master, but this has worked for me on 95% of the situations I needed it to. It sometimes takes a conscious effort to tell myself to "let off the gas" before a big jump but when done properly it works.
Just sayin
regarding the "kick" off of jumps.. It most certainly is caused by bottoming off the face of a jump. But if you look at whats really happening, it usually caused by the front wheels clearing the lip as the rear is rebounding. Several fixes can help
1. bandaid fix is to add a stiffer rear spring.
2. Go thicker rear oil..
3. Increase ride height
all these will work to some degree, but have a penalty somewhere along the way. Usually in a loss of rear grip or unbalanced setup
Instead of changing the setup, why not change yer driving ? Approach jumps that have a short face or are high speed in coast / off power ( not max speed either) and squeeze throttle while going off the face. I am not an RC master, but this has worked for me on 95% of the situations I needed it to. It sometimes takes a conscious effort to tell myself to "let off the gas" before a big jump but when done properly it works.
Just sayin
03-21-2015, 06:48 AM
#73
The team guys have been testing the .3 parts for a while now. And they have already wont some really big races with them. The kit setup should be a great all around starting point for most drivers. There is not a need to have this part or that to get this truck on the track. Im guessing.. An aluminum servo horn with the spline you need it gonna be about it. Maybe a few tuning options as you get to different tracks or conditions as with the case of any other RC vehicle.
regarding the "kick" off of jumps.. It most certainly is caused by bottoming off the face of a jump. But if you look at whats really happening, it usually caused by the front wheels clearing the lip as the rear is rebounding. Several fixes can help
1. bandaid fix is to add a stiffer rear spring.
2. Go thicker rear oil..
3. Increase ride height
all these will work to some degree, but have a penalty somewhere along the way. Usually in a loss of rear grip or unbalanced setup
Instead of changing the setup, why not change yer driving ? Approach jumps that have a short face or are high speed in coast / off power ( not max speed either) and squeeze throttle while going off the face. I am not an RC master, but this has worked for me on 95% of the situations I needed it to. It sometimes takes a conscious effort to tell myself to "let off the gas" before a big jump but when done properly it works.
Just sayin
regarding the "kick" off of jumps.. It most certainly is caused by bottoming off the face of a jump. But if you look at whats really happening, it usually caused by the front wheels clearing the lip as the rear is rebounding. Several fixes can help
1. bandaid fix is to add a stiffer rear spring.
2. Go thicker rear oil..
3. Increase ride height
all these will work to some degree, but have a penalty somewhere along the way. Usually in a loss of rear grip or unbalanced setup
Instead of changing the setup, why not change yer driving ? Approach jumps that have a short face or are high speed in coast / off power ( not max speed either) and squeeze throttle while going off the face. I am not an RC master, but this has worked for me on 95% of the situations I needed it to. It sometimes takes a conscious effort to tell myself to "let off the gas" before a big jump but when done properly it works.
Just sayin
As for the options to fix nose down, etc I think what you are saying has validity, the problem is doing this in a manner that maintains similar speeds to the competition.
It kind of reminds me of what sc10 4x4 drivers would do to get around bigger 1/8 tracks. they would roll a double or triples versus other vehicles just taking them, eventually, you lose time because of this and if competition is close, it is a liability.
But again I believe the older vehicle could solve these issues with some tuning or the battery tray mod. I do wish this version did have the tray mod done, but that is why I held on to that part to use
As for stuff to keep from the old vehicle, other than pistons and additional sway bars, not thinking of too much else I am keeping / kept.
One thing I am gonna be curious about is if I can do the same kind of steering mod I did before to raise up the position of the servo horn to work with regular servo horns. I don't see any problem why what I have done won't, but curious non the less.
03-21-2015, 07:30 AM
#74
Suspended
Hmmmm, seems like some good things going on here.
03-22-2015, 01:19 AM
#75
This also made a noticeable difference for me, along with a few minor setup changes discussed before over the issue.