Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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#6001
Anyone tried to fit EB/NB48 2.0 steering bellcranks into the sct?
#6003
.4 ackermann has been revised and updated to 2.0 ackerman, so may i think 2.0 bellcranks should fit?
#6004
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I haven't measured but my guess is that the 2.0 geometry appears to be closer to the .3 ackermann than the .4 ackermann if I had to guess, but the key difference is that the 2.0 ackermann is reversible which offers a far wider range of tuning options to explore. I'm gonna stick with the .4 geometry on my SCT for now, I'm very pleased with the more aggressive angle it has to offer, my truck can turn on a dime and I don't want to take that away which is what I think will happen if I switch from .4 to 2.0 geometry
#6005
I just held the 2.0 servo saver up to the .4 bellcrank and confirmed they are compatible, but the offset is different so you definitely will need the matched 2.0 ackermann bar for it to work properly.
I haven't measured but my guess is that the 2.0 geometry appears to be closer to the .3 ackermann than the .4 ackermann if I had to guess, but the key difference is that the 2.0 ackermann is reversible which offers a far wider range of tuning options to explore. I'm gonna stick with the .4 geometry on my SCT for now, I'm very pleased with the more aggressive angle it has to offer, my truck can turn on a dime and I don't want to take that away which is what I think will happen if I switch from .4 to 2.0 geometry
I haven't measured but my guess is that the 2.0 geometry appears to be closer to the .3 ackermann than the .4 ackermann if I had to guess, but the key difference is that the 2.0 ackermann is reversible which offers a far wider range of tuning options to explore. I'm gonna stick with the .4 geometry on my SCT for now, I'm very pleased with the more aggressive angle it has to offer, my truck can turn on a dime and I don't want to take that away which is what I think will happen if I switch from .4 to 2.0 geometry
#6006
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
Good to know! Thanks! My sct410.3 is box stock. I'm running on turf so i will be modifying it to fwd shocks and at the same time i would like tu update it to the lastest setup. That includes .4 steering (2.0 if possible), 8x1.4 machined pistons and shock internals and hrc rear hubs
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/...sct410-3.1389/
I've got my ride height down to 18mm with aftermarket shocks from Exceed:
Last edited by billdelong; 10-25-2020 at 06:19 AM.
#6007
I believe the .4 steering will be better for turf (assuming you want more steering), while I am currently running the HRC rear hubs, that will give more rear grip which may not be beneficial for turf. I'm currently working on a setup for turf to share my dirt setup with minimal changes for turf toward the end of this thread here, with the most important upgrade being shock cushions
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/...sct410-3.1389/
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=382097026317587
I've got my ride height down to 18mm with aftermarket shocks from Exceed:
https://www.teknoforums.com/threads/...sct410-3.1389/
https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=382097026317587
I've got my ride height down to 18mm with aftermarket shocks from Exceed:
I tried those hubs today at the track and the rear seems more planted. The truck tends to roll over a lot less.
With the forward shock setup, there is more weight distribution to the front end that, now, it wants to lift left rear inside tire and it's very difficult to keep the power while cornering. I'll be testing harder 2.8 front sway bar next weekend
I have also ordered a bunch of plastic shims to use as a droop limiter
#6008
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
I guess we are both talking about different things depending on what our desired goal is, you seem to be more concerned with off power steering where I tend to lay a lot of power in the corners myself, pretty good write up here from the 2.0 manual explaining the key difference in added traction either on-power (HRC) or off-power (LRC):
#6009
I guess we are both talking about different things depending on what our desired goal is, you seem to be more concerned with off power steering where I tend to lay a lot of power in the corners myself, pretty good write up here from the 2.0 manual explaining the key difference in added traction either on-power (HRC) or off-power (LRC):
That said, i want to keep the truck's chassis planted to the ground. The truck has more than enough on power and off-power steering. Starting from stock setup i went for Orange LF front and Green LF rear springs, with 40/35wt oils. The truck handling improved instantly. After many practice days and roll overs i decided it was the time to step ahead. I went for rear shocks mounted in front of the arms. This resulted in better chassis responsiveness and faster corner speeds but still wants to roll over easily and has lost too much rear grip for my liking, the rear end tends to slide on fastest corners and wants to lift the rear inside tire. HRC hubs and thicker front sway bar should improve body roll and chassis heights, allowing all 4 wheels to slide just a little while cornering without rolling over. I'm also thinking going up to 10k in the center diff to see if i can bring back the lost rear grip.
This is my theory, that may be completely wrong in practice
#6010
Tech Champion
iTrader: (33)
That inside rear tire lift issue is very common on turf/carpet, I would start with a thicker rear sway bar, possibly stiffer springs and thicker fluid, I'm currently running 625Cst in both the front/rear shocks with 8 x 1.3 flat pistons right now, shock cushions have also made a drastic improvement on my jump landings on the flats on turf as well
I'm running 15-15-7 in the diffs
I'm running 15-15-7 in the diffs
#6011
My track is super bumpy long pile turf. With shocks on the rear of the arms front end felt good, but now with arms in front it just feels too soft. I may go up in front oil to 42.5wt and try. I also think those machined pistons are a must!
#6012
I run kit set up and won my first race with the SCT410.3. I just went to the green rear springs and 350cst oil, the rear was way too soft.
Sometimes learning to adapt your driving to what you're car does is the way to get your set up right.
Sometimes learning to adapt your driving to what you're car does is the way to get your set up right.
#6013
Hi all, I have a somewhat complex question.
Is it still possible to convert the latest SCT 410.x to an EB48.xSL buggy? What parts would I need?
x=latest version of chassis.
Is it still possible to convert the latest SCT 410.x to an EB48.xSL buggy? What parts would I need?
x=latest version of chassis.
#6014
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
Links below list the required parts. If you don't plan to convert back, you don't need the buggy side mud guards as you can just cut the nerf bar mounts off. I also wouldn't bother with the Rear Arm Mud Guards as after running a bit we noticed they were rubbing so we ended up taking them off to ensure a free moving rear suspension.
https://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5570...gy-width-2pcs/
https://www.amainhobbies.com/tekno-r...570-17/p246445
Believe the wing listed in above links is discontinued, but any EB48/.2/.3/.4 compatible wing should work. Not sure about EB48 2.0 wings, they might be different?
You'll also need a buggy body. Again, any EB48/.2/.3/.4 compatible body should work. The EB48 2.0 bodies will definitely NOT fit properly. I went with this one from JConcepts when I converted mine:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/jconcep...co0262/p259224
There's a separate thread for the EB48SL. It's here and this is what ours looked like when we first converted it:
Tekno RC EB48SL Thread
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Later on, I switched to these narrow hubs to bring it back to the SCT's width, added the .4 steering / ackerman plate, hrc rear hubs, and the springs/pistons etc. to more of less get to Tekno's recommended SCT setup. You can find lots of info on this setup by looking thru this SCT410.3 thread. Even without the high mounted heavy parachute SCT body, this setup seems to work ok on the EB48SL buggy on a low grip rough outdoor track.
#6015
^My man. Thanks. So it's just the axle and hexes then? What about the front and rear bumpers and wing mount? I believe 1/8 buggy wings are universal fit mostly, and I'll prolly go with the same body as you if I decide to buy one.
Are you guys using 550 motors or 1/8 motors?
Are you guys using 550 motors or 1/8 motors?