219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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07-08-2019, 09:46 AM
#5881
Tech Rookie
Hello and thanks to all the contributors to this thread. I've read it a few times now and learned a ton. I have less than a year RC experience at this point so I am kinda like a sponge, soaking it all in.
I built my 410.3 a couple months ago as a 4s machine for my home track. Later I found out that I am only 30 minutes away from one of the best tracks in Texas, Thornhill Raceway. So now I plan to race on their indooor carpet track as a beginner and eventually progress to the 1/8 scale dirt track with 4wd buggy.
I rebuilt the truck this past week and used the Munn AstroTurf setup sheet. I deviated from the setup with my own shock low frequency spring combo. I installed a HW XERUN 5100kv motor to go with the XR8 SCT ESC already in the truck. Currently have a 15T pinion installed. I'm not sure this was the best motor choice but I'm going to work with it. Already looking at motor fans and heatsinks.
With the box setup I was one of the folks who couldn't achieve ride height. I couldn't get it down low enough. Since my home track is bumpy with big jumps I didn't worry about it. On this recent rebuild, I was able to achieve the 19mm ride height prescribed in the setup. I think there were two main factors. One, the factory springs are too long to get that low. I installed the low frequency green springs all the way around. They are shorter. I have a set of LF pinks for further tuning. Second was my shock build. I was running nonvented bladder shocks previously. When I built them with no rebound, they still had rebound. I assume because the area above the bladder is sealed and builds pressure during compression. I vented the cap this time and the result was a a true no rebound shock. Once everything was installed I had to actually tighten the spring tensioners to come up to ride height.
Im having a problem with replacement front a arms. After intalling them, there is now a gap, 2mm or so, between the arm and the blocks. The arm now moves forward and backwards on the pin. I didn't have the issue with the box parts. I saw someone else had this issue in this thread but it was never addressed. For now I've simply put one of those C spacers on the pin to take up the slop but I feel that it's a bandaid and there is some other issue. And putting the spacer in the front or in the rear of the arms will surely have an effect on geometry.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
I built my 410.3 a couple months ago as a 4s machine for my home track. Later I found out that I am only 30 minutes away from one of the best tracks in Texas, Thornhill Raceway. So now I plan to race on their indooor carpet track as a beginner and eventually progress to the 1/8 scale dirt track with 4wd buggy.
I rebuilt the truck this past week and used the Munn AstroTurf setup sheet. I deviated from the setup with my own shock low frequency spring combo. I installed a HW XERUN 5100kv motor to go with the XR8 SCT ESC already in the truck. Currently have a 15T pinion installed. I'm not sure this was the best motor choice but I'm going to work with it. Already looking at motor fans and heatsinks.
With the box setup I was one of the folks who couldn't achieve ride height. I couldn't get it down low enough. Since my home track is bumpy with big jumps I didn't worry about it. On this recent rebuild, I was able to achieve the 19mm ride height prescribed in the setup. I think there were two main factors. One, the factory springs are too long to get that low. I installed the low frequency green springs all the way around. They are shorter. I have a set of LF pinks for further tuning. Second was my shock build. I was running nonvented bladder shocks previously. When I built them with no rebound, they still had rebound. I assume because the area above the bladder is sealed and builds pressure during compression. I vented the cap this time and the result was a a true no rebound shock. Once everything was installed I had to actually tighten the spring tensioners to come up to ride height.
Im having a problem with replacement front a arms. After intalling them, there is now a gap, 2mm or so, between the arm and the blocks. The arm now moves forward and backwards on the pin. I didn't have the issue with the box parts. I saw someone else had this issue in this thread but it was never addressed. For now I've simply put one of those C spacers on the pin to take up the slop but I feel that it's a bandaid and there is some other issue. And putting the spacer in the front or in the rear of the arms will surely have an effect on geometry.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
07-08-2019, 05:25 PM
#5882
Tech Rookie
Tom, have you tried reducing your steering throw? Maybe cut the dual rate down to 70, or 80 and see how it reacts. Are you running steering stops/washers?
07-08-2019, 06:34 PM
#5883
Hi there. Yes I have two washers on each side. I'm actually a smooth driver and don't wrench my steering from lock-to-lock. I could perhaps add another washer to see if that helps but I don't think it is from me steering too aggressively. For instance just braking at the end of the straight can cause the tail to start to follow the front and it is a balancing act to slow down keeping it in a straight line. On a sweeping, high speed turn I feel it is going nice then suddenly the rear spins on me and I do a donut. It's puzzling. I took the previous person's advice and shortened the wheelbase to 1-4 from stock 2-3 (F-R). With my buggy I could lock up all four wheels under braking and it would slide in a straight line. It's a lot more forgiving. I'm not a great driver but in buggy I can make the A-main on a very good day, but usually the B but in truck this past weekend I came dead last! ;-) I'm wondering what lengthening the rear link would do. -Tom
07-08-2019, 08:00 PM
#5884
Tech Rookie
I have 3 washers with dual rate around 80-84, but that may not even matter with your issue. I run on a hardpack track that usually gets a little blue groove towards the mains. But it can get dusty, especially out of the groove. My truck, for the most part, has the rear end planted, especially on power. For comparison sake, this is my rear end set up:
1° anti squat, 3° toe, hub location is 2(front), 3(back), 2.4 sway bar, camber link position is #3-B, shocks are: #1(all the way outside) on the tower, and inside on the arm. Shocks are emulsion with 6 x 1.5 pistons and 35wt AE oil. I'm going back to 8 X 1.3 for a little more pack. Yellow LF springs. Rear diff is 5k. I'm around 22-23 ride ht both ends. I start practice, and the 1st heat or 2 with blockades and switch to impact, or lil chaser later. This setup keeps the rear end planted for me. But it pushes on power. I still have to work that issue out for more on power steering.
1° anti squat, 3° toe, hub location is 2(front), 3(back), 2.4 sway bar, camber link position is #3-B, shocks are: #1(all the way outside) on the tower, and inside on the arm. Shocks are emulsion with 6 x 1.5 pistons and 35wt AE oil. I'm going back to 8 X 1.3 for a little more pack. Yellow LF springs. Rear diff is 5k. I'm around 22-23 ride ht both ends. I start practice, and the 1st heat or 2 with blockades and switch to impact, or lil chaser later. This setup keeps the rear end planted for me. But it pushes on power. I still have to work that issue out for more on power steering.
07-09-2019, 07:31 PM
#5885
Tom, see my post from a week ago #5873.
*It works if you follow it 100%, you can’t just change springs or shock oil and expect it to work.
LF on the springs is Low Frequency. Shock pistons are 1.3 drilled out to 1.4.
A short course truck will not handle like a buggy, the quirks they have is part of the fun of racing them.
Brakes, mine are turned down to 80%. Will not lock up when full brake at end of straight-away. Always set your brakes this way.
Anti-squat will affect how the rear end handles when letting off the throttle going into a turn....
have fun
07-10-2019, 09:47 AM
#5886
Tech Rookie
Hello and thanks to all the contributors to this thread. I've read it a few times now and learned a ton. I have less than a year RC experience at this point so I am kinda like a sponge, soaking it all in.
I built my 410.3 a couple months ago as a 4s machine for my home track. Later I found out that I am only 30 minutes away from one of the best tracks in Texas, Thornhill Raceway. So now I plan to race on their indooor carpet track as a beginner and eventually progress to the 1/8 scale dirt track with 4wd buggy.
I rebuilt the truck this past week and used the Munn AstroTurf setup sheet. I deviated from the setup with my own shock low frequency spring combo. I installed a HW XERUN 5100kv motor to go with the XR8 SCT ESC already in the truck. Currently have a 15T pinion installed. I'm not sure this was the best motor choice but I'm going to work with it. Already looking at motor fans and heatsinks.
With the box setup I was one of the folks who couldn't achieve ride height. I couldn't get it down low enough. Since my home track is bumpy with big jumps I didn't worry about it. On this recent rebuild, I was able to achieve the 19mm ride height prescribed in the setup. I think there were two main factors. One, the factory springs are too long to get that low. I installed the low frequency green springs all the way around. They are shorter. I have a set of LF pinks for further tuning. Second was my shock build. I was running nonvented bladder shocks previously. When I built them with no rebound, they still had rebound. I assume because the area above the bladder is sealed and builds pressure during compression. I vented the cap this time and the result was a a true no rebound shock. Once everything was installed I had to actually tighten the spring tensioners to come up to ride height.
Im having a problem with replacement front a arms. After intalling them, there is now a gap, 2mm or so, between the arm and the blocks. The arm now moves forward and backwards on the pin. I didn't have the issue with the box parts. I saw someone else had this issue in this thread but it was never addressed. For now I've simply put one of those C spacers on the pin to take up the slop but I feel that it's a bandaid and there is some other issue. And putting the spacer in the front or in the rear of the arms will surely have an effect on geometry.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
I built my 410.3 a couple months ago as a 4s machine for my home track. Later I found out that I am only 30 minutes away from one of the best tracks in Texas, Thornhill Raceway. So now I plan to race on their indooor carpet track as a beginner and eventually progress to the 1/8 scale dirt track with 4wd buggy.
I rebuilt the truck this past week and used the Munn AstroTurf setup sheet. I deviated from the setup with my own shock low frequency spring combo. I installed a HW XERUN 5100kv motor to go with the XR8 SCT ESC already in the truck. Currently have a 15T pinion installed. I'm not sure this was the best motor choice but I'm going to work with it. Already looking at motor fans and heatsinks.
With the box setup I was one of the folks who couldn't achieve ride height. I couldn't get it down low enough. Since my home track is bumpy with big jumps I didn't worry about it. On this recent rebuild, I was able to achieve the 19mm ride height prescribed in the setup. I think there were two main factors. One, the factory springs are too long to get that low. I installed the low frequency green springs all the way around. They are shorter. I have a set of LF pinks for further tuning. Second was my shock build. I was running nonvented bladder shocks previously. When I built them with no rebound, they still had rebound. I assume because the area above the bladder is sealed and builds pressure during compression. I vented the cap this time and the result was a a true no rebound shock. Once everything was installed I had to actually tighten the spring tensioners to come up to ride height.
Im having a problem with replacement front a arms. After intalling them, there is now a gap, 2mm or so, between the arm and the blocks. The arm now moves forward and backwards on the pin. I didn't have the issue with the box parts. I saw someone else had this issue in this thread but it was never addressed. For now I've simply put one of those C spacers on the pin to take up the slop but I feel that it's a bandaid and there is some other issue. And putting the spacer in the front or in the rear of the arms will surely have an effect on geometry.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
07-19-2019, 04:18 PM
#5887
Tech Apprentice
Upgrades on the horizon?
With the ever anticipated .5 buggy upgrades, do we anticipate an SCT410 increment? If for no other reason than to maintain parts interchangeability? About to invest in a couple for the kids, and while I have no problem investing in .3’s I’d hate to buy 2, and the .4.5 come out a week later.
07-22-2019, 02:06 PM
#5888
With the ever anticipated .5 buggy upgrades, do we anticipate an SCT410 increment? If for no other reason than to maintain parts interchangeability? About to invest in a couple for the kids, and while I have no problem investing in .3’s I’d hate to buy 2, and the .4.5 come out a week later.
07-24-2019, 03:20 PM
#5889
07-28-2019, 06:32 PM
#5890
Tech Apprentice
Yeah, that's what I figured but, thought I'd ask. The boys have about beat their Rustlers to death and they've been getting the racing bug. Looking for something they can run year around since we have both indoor, and outdoor tracks within 2 hours drive. I'd really like to get them on the ET410's but there's not enough interest in them at the outdoor track.
07-31-2019, 07:11 AM
#5891
A few of the links did not work today.
ape-rc and the lightweight chart links for example.
ape-rc and the lightweight chart links for example.
08-01-2019, 09:09 AM
#5892
sold my original sct410 years ago and JUST ordered the .3 truck to get back into SCT racing with my daughter. I need to hit Fierce RC for oils and springs, I already have the ABCD aluminum hinge pin blocks and all electrics. Anything else?
what is the better setup for loose low traction, rough, big jumps? Do they still like to nose down like original truck?
also Fall/winter series is coming up pretty soon and that will be on indoor high bite clay track (we run slicks indoor)
what is the going setup for that type of track?
thanks
what is the better setup for loose low traction, rough, big jumps? Do they still like to nose down like original truck?
also Fall/winter series is coming up pretty soon and that will be on indoor high bite clay track (we run slicks indoor)
what is the going setup for that type of track?
thanks
08-10-2019, 08:00 AM
#5893
sold my original sct410 years ago and JUST ordered the .3 truck to get back into SCT racing with my daughter. I need to hit Fierce RC for oils and springs, I already have the ABCD aluminum hinge pin blocks and all electrics. Anything else?
what is the better setup for loose low traction, rough, big jumps? Do they still like to nose down like original truck?
also Fall/winter series is coming up pretty soon and that will be on indoor high bite clay track (we run slicks indoor)
what is the going setup for that type of track?
thanks
what is the better setup for loose low traction, rough, big jumps? Do they still like to nose down like original truck?
also Fall/winter series is coming up pretty soon and that will be on indoor high bite clay track (we run slicks indoor)
what is the going setup for that type of track?
thanks
Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
.
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)
.
08-13-2019, 08:38 AM
#5895
Go to the very top of this thread and look at the WIKI post that has all the latest recommended parts and setup. Really made mine handle well.
Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
.
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)
.
Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
.
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)
.
also the pistons I wanted were DC'd so I got part number tkr6065 to drill out, HOPEFULLY they will work!