219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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05-01-2016, 10:33 AM
#3526
Finally!!
Someone who gets it and put it into words. The slight weight forward bias of the Tekno is THE reason I run their kits - if they where to change that, it would ruin this chassis.
The last thing you want in a 4WD chassis is to heel and toe over jumps. Nothing wrong with Tekno's weight bias.
Someone who gets it and put it into words. The slight weight forward bias of the Tekno is THE reason I run their kits - if they where to change that, it would ruin this chassis.
The last thing you want in a 4WD chassis is to heel and toe over jumps. Nothing wrong with Tekno's weight bias.
Thx.
05-01-2016, 10:47 AM
#3527
Everyone can quit the bickering now. He states straight out that his main focus was on side to side weight balance as opposed to front to rear. No one was commanded to follow what he was doing. I found the same side to side bias as well and I plan on doing something about it. I could have just as easily ignored it and not argued with everyone about something this senseless.
05-01-2016, 11:04 AM
#3528
On the right - RX8 (76 grams) and a Pro4 4600 (193 grams), most servos are about 60 grams and most receivers are about 10 grams. All of that together is ~335-345 grams. Most of the big batteries, 7000-8000 mah weigh about 320-340 grams.
05-01-2016, 11:35 AM
#3529
Everyone can quit the bickering now. He states straight out that his main focus was on side to side weight balance as opposed to front to rear. No one was commanded to follow what he was doing. I found the same side to side bias as well and I plan on doing something about it. I could have just as easily ignored it and not argued with everyone about something this senseless.
someone understand what I was saying
05-01-2016, 11:38 AM
#3530
But i love that low end torque so much though.....
05-01-2016, 11:47 AM
#3531
Many people now have AL servos that are in the 75g range, Pro4 HDs with heat sinks and fans on them, and batteries that are only 300 or so grams...and thus end up with the mentioned side to side balance issues.
Some will be happy, some won't. Some will notice, some won't.
As for the front/rear bias mentioned above, I agree with more up front being generally better. That's why I stuff as much up front as I can, rather than putting things back by/in the rx case. Everybody will have their own preferences, and that's all good.
05-01-2016, 11:47 AM
#3532
what are some tricks to keep this truck flatter on jumps.. likes to nose dive a bit. Never had this issue w/ other pro4 trucks.. just looking for thoughts. Its not from chassis slapping and going over, it just wants to nose dive... some jumps you can just adapt.. but others are really tough and there typically isn't enough motor to correct and save.
05-01-2016, 12:01 PM
#3533
Actual front to rear weight of mid motor desert racing trucks range between 50/50 to 52R/48f. Imo that's where I'm shooting for.
05-01-2016, 03:36 PM
#3534
Can you please share the electronics combo you are running with your car on the scale? So I can understand what I'm doing wrong with my car. Because it shows on my scale that my right side is way heavier than my left,numbers just don't lie. To me the left to right unbalance is unacceptable !!
Thx.
Thx.
Protek 150 servo
HW 4000kw
15T pinion
SMC 6500maH
Frankly, I didn't take anyones statements as "bickering." I thought most of the comments on weight bias were pretty constructive. Comments were made with good intentions, there was no foul language or name calling, and all were on topic.
I understand moderation, I am a systems administrator myself, but let and encourage folks to discuss ideas. Everyone gains understanding in different ways and at a different pace.
05-01-2016, 04:30 PM
#3535
I'm about to order this kit tonight and I was curious if there are any upgrades to purchase from the get-go for the initial build to get out of the way? I've heard it uses plastic diff pins for the spider gears? Is that something that should be upgraded right away? I haven't heard much in terms of overall durability, meaning that its tough out of the box but I feel like those diff pins should be steel.
05-01-2016, 04:32 PM
#3536
I'm about to order this kit tonight and I was curious if there are any upgrades to purchase from the get-go for the initial build to get out of the way? I've heard it uses plastic diff pins for the spider gears? Is that something that should be upgraded right away? I haven't heard much in terms of overall durability, meaning that its tough out of the box but I feel like those diff pins should be steel.
I've rebuilt my diffs a few times with the carbon cross-pins, no issue in my opinion.
You might consider an aluminum A-Block.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...kr5161/p443632
05-01-2016, 04:40 PM
#3537
deviltrigger529,
I've rebuilt my diffs a few times with the carbon cross-pins, no issue in my opinion.
You might consider an aluminum A-Block.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...kr5161/p443632
I've rebuilt my diffs a few times with the carbon cross-pins, no issue in my opinion.
You might consider an aluminum A-Block.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...kr5161/p443632
05-01-2016, 04:51 PM
#3539
Ah yes, almost forgot the servo horn! Thanks!
05-01-2016, 04:52 PM
#3540
Aluminum"A"block is a must imo. The plastic diff pins in other hand are great, weight saving and tougher than they look. I've raced my car almost a year and a half with no issues with those pins.