I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

work in progress will have to see how balance is

MelKF2

Keep us informed! Look's great

Saturn V

I'm at a solid 61% rear weight with rear-mounted shocks on the kit tower and low-grip layout. I do have 25g on the transmission housing but it'd probably still be 60% with no ballast. Running on clay.

I'm not sure I like the rear weight. I wanted the rear to be more planted but I don't like lifting the front tires off the ground. Need to try some things before I move weight back forward.

MelKF2

You might try moving rear shocks back to the front to remove little rear grip? I just ran my KF2 at my local track with small bore shocks for the first time Excellent feel more plush! Also dropped 15 grs. weight using the small bore shocks! Now running 75grs of rear weight. Total weight now 1503grs and a soild 39/61 balance. Thanks again to Phil (DRC) for the advice and support!😀

oldernoob

iTrader: (1)

Saturn V, got any pics of your layout? You running low grip layout and not MM too, interesting!

Saturn V

Sorry for the delay.

Added a full 2% rear weight by moving ESC from fully forward to fully rearward. Low grip layout with super shorty 2600mAh battery. No issues yet with 8-minute mains (7.5 in here but also went the distance with a 5.5 in my 4wd). A bit of helicopter tape on the chassis and single battery strap is sticky enough to secure the battery. Temps are a little scary... the ESC is about 180f after two laps, but it doesn't exceed 190f even after 8 minutes. A guy I know runs the same ESCs at 240f in his 4wd buggy and SCT and he's never killed one, so I'm trying to ignore it.

The idea here was to enlarge my tuning window by moving weight to the rear. I've always been right on (or over) the edge of rear grip on throttle. If anything, this went too far. I can now lift the front tires off the ground pretty much everywhere and it makes the car unpredictable because I'm so used to the rear stepping out first. I'm not moving shocks forward because I feel like the benefit of rearward shocks is the increased moment of inertia, not the rear weight. They just slow the car's angular acceleration enough to make it driveable. What I really wanted was to extend the wheelbase in the rear. Again, I feel like it smooths the car out and makes it easier to drive (if you have the rear grip to support it).

Unfortunately, indoor has been pretty dead here since the guys I'm competing with are at oval nats, 1:10 regionals, and 1:8 worlds. As a result, I've been skipping the races with low turnouts and only running one set of tires, so no practice laps to experiment and it's too risky to make a big change like wheelbase on race day. I've won every race I've entered with this setup, but development is at a standstill at the moment.

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

running the side braces, vs the top deck
have you noticed much difference on the low grip surface

Saturn V

I don't have a top deck for the KF2. I'd run one if I had it because the KF2 has a silly amount of flex up front and I'm just not a fan of 'adding flex' to change handling characteristics. RC car conventions be damned, slop and flex are not beneficial!

JsK

iTrader: (10)

That was pertty much my favorite setup for my KF on dirt, my tekin was where your rx is and my rx was on the other side under /beside the spur. Full shorty with a 40 gram battery bar. After that I made a MM chassis from aluminum and never could get the car to work as well on slick dirt. The mm might have more forward bite but lacks sidebite in the rear.

Eventually I got sick of trying to stick a square peg in a round hole and built a SV2 for our slippery dirt track, massively better car on low traction.

Our local track is going astro so the kf is coming out of retirement, actually I may pick up a new kf2 and build a SC truck out of the KF .

MelKF2

Have you tried the new narrow rear hex 5.5 mm design for loose conditions?

JsK

iTrader: (10)

Original plastic B5 hexes are the almost the exact same width as the new narrow schumacher hexes, been running those for a long time.

Honestly the SV2 worked so much better on our track I pretty much stuck the KF on a shelf.

But in a couple weeks our track will be 6500sqft of glorious astro.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Nice to see you guys still working on the cars and having fun. My car is on the shelf looking pretty, but that's only because it's 8th scale season

In our region, there's very little 10th scale in the summer. A few tracks here and there, but in comparison to 8th, it's almost nothing.

the big rc

iTrader: (40)

I gotta say I'm loving this car. I've run them all, and the build quality on this car is unreal.

celt

iTrader: (5)

Schuey gents,

Have a question:

Instead of waiting for the AE carpet B6, I figured I'd go for the chassis that has been doing this mid motor stuff from the get-go...

But I'm a bit confused.

I want to run the KF2 with a shorty transverse. I know this is done with this chassis, but I'm completely unsure what I need to do that. The "SE" claims all these motor configurations in one box, but transverse lipo? Is that part of the options being referred to? Do I need the SE kit AND the short lipo conversion?

Will run on carpet/ozite exclusively.

Riverbluff

You don't need the shorty conversion. Everything you need some with the kit.