{tpc}

iTrader: (26)

Has anyone had the screw holes that are used to attach the side plates crack? Was working on it for a bit yesterday and needed to pull these off and saw that 4 of them (2 on each side)had cracked, and they were just the ones around the battery area.

I know its not ideal, so I'll likely just run it this way for awhile. Just wondered if anyone else had a similar experience. I am unsure what caused it, other than tightening the battery brace around a slightly puffed battery at one time?

Woulvesbaine

iTrader: (12)

Thanks. Didn't realize Schelle made a brace for the YZ-2. Any particular reason you prefer it over the McKune? I like Schelle parts, but was curious if there was a functional reason you had or you just prefer the look.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

Does anyone use the CNC front hub carriers for carpet? I got some here that I could put on my DTM.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I prefer the graphite ones on carpet but if you already have them and your carpet is of a high level of grip, they'll work well.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks, I somehow misplaced them as I came upstairs, gotta love when that happens so going with the ones that came with the DTM.

Thinking of ordering some of those RP springs, any ones particular to go with? right now I am putting on yatabe arena greens all around.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Start with Orange f/r, go stiffer as needed

Cain

iTrader: (294)

So these?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...p-084o/p638892

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...p-083o/p638888

is it possible to compare rate to rate a yatabe carpet spring to the Race performer?

so for example, green in Yatabe is same as green in Race performer, just different handling characteristics?

Reason I ask is I have greens front and rear Yatabe, if I like them, I would want to grab the similar rate in RP or whatever feels similar in stiffness to cut down on having lots of springs that don't get used (equipping 2 cars here).

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

I think I heard mentioned before that the Yatabe springs are shorter,to able you to get a lower ride height you need for carpet racing

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Yes, those.

You can't compare rates of the RP to anything else on the market (from any brand, not just Yokomo's other springs). They measure at their stiffest like most brands' softest. They run plush; nothing lands jumps on carpet/turf like them, and they take some of the edginess off the car without really hurting corner speed. Before the team went down the rabbit hole of stiffer shocks, stiffer springs, and swaybars while using the chassis itself as part of the suspension (and turning it into a wear part while they were at it), nearly all the setups of the pre-"...we seem to not really understand how aluminum flexes and ages but it feels good..." era started with Orange RP's all around. They're weird, you'd think they shouldn't work on feel alone and then, months later, half the AE cars in my area at one track use them as well.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Depending on your current shock setup and desired ride height, you'll go up about two turns on the front shock spring collars when switching from the Yatabe's to the RP's and maybe even won't touch the rear when re-setting your ride height.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks for the info. To save some shipping money, do you recommend any other of the RPs to have on hand?

The track they will be used at seems to benefit from a softer rear end on the vehicle as the carpet can get bumpy due to the surface underneath for a 1/3 of the track.

Also, does anyone still use the previous rear ballstud mount that goes to the rear tower? the one with the holes that are inline with each other versus the DTM style one that is like a triangle? I got some NIB alloy ones including the one that has the bolt on weight option, and was curious if these would be good to use on carpet or should I get the alloy DTM style one?

How is the quality of yokomo titanium turnbuckles?

the black ball ends that go on the turnbuckles, they any good?

Going to be running carpet here initially with the ball diff, its a spec class 17.5 so not too worried about wear and all, heck ran ball diffs in the old days with mod motors on carpet, is there anything I should watch for as far as setup (ex- ball diff gives more traction,
so do "X"), etc.

anyone using the weighted rear hangars or similar at all on carpet? I am starting with the stock aluminum initially.

Lastly, I got in the alloy versions of the rear DTM style hubs. I noticed the previous owner had the ball stud mount part that bolts to the hub mounted in reverse (the part was more over the hub itself than like the manual shows). What advantages and tuning conditions would you use that for?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I've used only Orange on carpet but my car is still fully braced (and straight... ).

The non-DTM rear end will give the car more mid-corner cornerspeed, less forward drive. On carpet here, everyone is back to the older rear end. One guy does still use the DTM brace setup in mod on turf but that's it. Older one is especially faster in 17.5 were an unbound car is a faster car.

Yokomo's turnbuckles are Lunford's in a different bag so you know they're good.

The DTM ball caps are a little better than the black ones. My cars are still a mix of both; never had an issue with the black ones.

Wouldn't add weight to the car for carpet anywhere except under the battery and/or via a weighted front bulkhead.

Flipping the ballstud mount on the alloy rear hubs like that just multiplies the number of available mount holes as far as the rear camber link length goes, use it the same as if all the holes were present all the time except you have to move it back and forth yourself to access those holes.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks. I have both of these it appears:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...300rud/p493841

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...300ruw/p453879

any particular one I should use and are goth compatible?

I'll see about using the stock DTM rear hubs then to save alittle rear end weight unless you suggest otherwise.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Part# 300RUW is the alum. version of the original version. The other one is one I haven't personally seen before so I can't comment on how it fits in the scheme of things.

The all-alum rear hubs (you're talking about these, right? https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...-415rs/p509096) are very fast on carpet, great cornerspeed. I'd stay with those especially as you'll need to get back all the cornerspeed you can with the ball diff.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks, yeah I got those sitting here too the carriers.

I do have a gear diff I could pull ... I can kick myself as I sold an extra YZ2 I had and it left with a gear diff, and now I got 4 ball diffs and 1 gear lol. Oh well.

You got a recommendation on a start oil rating for the diff? if I got time I may swap that in.

Oh, and if I find the front alloy hub carriers would you recommend them to put on at all or stick with plastic?

one thing I don't have are sway bars.

To help give you an idea of what I am running on:

+ YouTube Video

+ YouTube Video

Black and white buggy was my old dex210F, man, loved that car lol.