Cain

iTrader: (294)

I have the option aluminum DTM rear hubs, I was thinking of dropping them on the vehicle for a bit more added weight for our loose conditions. Thoughts or should I stick with the plastic ones?

I took a few hot laps at our race last night (truck night) to see how the vehicle felt with a 25g weight under the lipo. It got my vehicle to about 1550g and it felt pretty good. I may give that a go this saturday too.

For you guys who have the yokomo weight (its what I have, the one that can fit in the chassis opening), do you find its work pulling up the foam and using it in that position or do you prefer the weight under the lipo, mind you, on loose conditions here so lipo full back with DT tranny setup.

Nikonsss

need help. Trying to convert original YZ-2 to CA. Ordered all new parts advised in
official Yokomo release, on Amain and PetiteRc (they're all the same). But carefully comparing
both manuals, on page#6 a surprise was waiting for me : new Rear suspension mounts (rear and front).
Original: Z2-300RF,Z2-300RR(+ spacers...RS)
vs
CA: Z2-300RF2,Z2-300RRS(+ new spacers...RF2&RRS).

Yes, i purchased new Main Chassis and new rear susp arms ('S4').
So, do anyone know why they haven't advised about that in release and is there any difference between old and new parts (can i use old)?

I Did used search, actually there are some words about the issue on p158, but unfortunately no clear answer has been given...

Thanks in advance!

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

every 2wd buggy I've ever owned always seemed to feel best around 1540g so that doesn't surprise me

Cain

iTrader: (294)

cool. The track when I got to throw it out there wsa rediculously dry and loose, so I didn't get a full on test but it did feel better in general with the weight versus without.

Just trying to decide do I put it in the "opening" or, stick it under the shorty that is full back?

I'll be pulling the rear toe though and going back to 3 degrees. just transitions funny during a turn.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (166)

Having a track like that won’t ever find you a good idea of how the car will do. I’m dealing with the same thing at my local track right now. Layout is at the end of its life, and they are getting ready for a thanksgiving race, so they are only doing minimal upkeep on it. Once the rebuild is done it will go back to a slicks, almost carpet like grip that I’m used to(tracknis 100% soft clay, so super high grip). Car should shine at that point. May not need the battery weight I have in it now. As far as the guy with the aluminium hubs, I went to the plastic, and it gave more grip then aluminium. I also cut the motor mount for motors flex, helped a little.. if your track is that dry and rutted, best to buy the DT conversion kit. The fast guy has it on his DTM now and is racking up
Wins over laydown cars.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

The only difference in the new chassis is the new holes for the standup DT parts so you didn't really need that to make an "old" YZ2 a CA unless yours was bent and you wanted to replace it anyway. The main differences between the first-gen car and the CA were the switch to the 3-gear setup, rear arms and driveshafts and the springs that were in the box along with it coming with the lw body.

Do make sure you have the correct driveshafts for those arms.

As far as I am aware, the difference on the rear susp. mounts is limited to the shaping of the metal on the top-front of the forward one and and some etching on the rear one, not anything geometric and they should work.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

When your track surface is <poo> then you really have to just focus on tires. No amount of setup will fix the car, but tires could make it manageable

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

To confirm, that holds true on every surface I've ran the car on as well.

Greg M

iTrader: (8)

I hated the DTM hubs on my yz4 in low grip, so have stayed with the plastic on my yz2DT as well.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

thanks guys. I'll keep the plastic stock DTMs on versus the upgrade aluminum ones, save those for carpet I am assuming.

yeah I agree its definitely a hunt on tires. In general, tire of choice I like is the Proline M4 rear blockades.

guess which tires Proline decides to discontinue!!!! *sigh*

So these are like worth there weight in gold here.

I was thinking of trying some proline tazers in m3 and maybe aka impacts in super soft, but don't want to hunt too much.

Jconcepts treads just don't either last or grip well here. Take it to another track, and they are golden.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Personally I found Hybrids to be my best outdoor tire. I did get some Dirt Mazes glued up but haven't gotten to try them yet.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah i tried hybrids in black compound here and they were garbage. Considering the style of tread I thought they would have hooked up.

The only answer I have is that maybe they were before that running change in compound. Greens actually felt sticker than the blacks did in goosebumps.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

Greens are usually as soft as I want to go. Blacks tend to feel squirmy to me because they roll over too easy. Only time I would run them is if it's below 65 degrees out.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah its hard to describe how they feel. Its like the actual material is no tacky. Its soft as far as how the tread flexes, but it as like no "stick" to it at all. The Proline M4, M3, and the goosebumps I felt recently (and a set of greens really used I had) were stickier.

I may try them again down the road as the pin height feels "right". It would be cool if they made these in a 4wd and 2wd front

hairymuffin

iTrader: (105)

Cain, put more weight. Lipo plate and a little under the tranny. You can’t be worried about how heavy the car feels. My sons car is at 1566, ron shuur packed it up and said it’s too heavy, but he is killing it in the expert stock class at Ocrc against some of the fastest 17.5 racers in the country. Stock car with all plastic parts. Top 5 track record at ocrc’s Surf city layout. No slipper eliminator. 25g lipo plate, 21g under tranny of dtm. Ocrc is high grip but gets slick when the track is dusty. Aluminum hubs are for carpet.

Curious if you guys are sweeping your track? What sucks for you is, most of the talk and setup stuff has to do with high traction.
Try removing some screws out the chassis side guards
I’m thinking more of it has to do with your track surface
Where is your ride height?
Hubs all the way forward?
How much toe? Of wich rear toe insert?