gatorage

no move both shocks all the way in with more angle in on the top. so you have more of the shock pushing at the turn not in the ground(you dont need the forward grip any more) it will make it more easy to drive and it help the front stay planted in the bumps.
kick-up/caster 4wd help to run it low to help braking grip and on power steering which you do with the front end on 4wd... in 2wd you steering is done a lot with the rear so you make the front more stable a easy to drive so you would most likely try to max out the angle on a 4wd chassis if trying to run 2wd. the more angle the more off-power steering you will have then when you get on the power lock in the front so it be harder to spin out the rear and like the top more planted in bumps.
camber should be about the same around -1 you try to keep the tire flat in the turn for max grip. you will see the extra caster will give you more camber in the turn
your roll center is going to be tricky you will more then likely need to run (2)x3mm= 6mm washer on eash side of the inside camber link so your extra weight does not mess with the front end to much but it be bad for your camber unless you can put 6mm on the outer to... if you cant i would run a lite front sway bar and run 3mm. this will help the weight not drive the car so funny.
also you need more ride high in the front to help keep the weight in the back and have a neutral driveable fell... around 2mm more should be all you need over the rear. and you might need a longer front shock to make up for more angle of the tower.

but still i dont know what car you have (some 4wd cars have same angles as 2wd (or close to) so it hard to know) but as a rule of 4wd this will help it drive more like it should in(2wd). but still if i was doing it i would change one thing at a time and see if i like where it is going and most of the time if you change one thing it will make 2 changes like camber links will change roll center and camber gain(you might haft to re-adjust for the change you like before) this is why it is hard to get a car right.

peter george

iTrader: (377)

Ok great ! Ooooops you did it again. I bought two Durango 4x4 buggies and can only run one at a time due to the fact that I was born with only two hands but now having read this thread I became curious and once my 4 wheeler is ready to race I'll try what you are doing on one of those buggies.

John Myall

Basically you use the B4 front end and the carbon chassis brace stack from the Cubed, slipper clutch and motor mount plus rear gearbox/ suspension from the B44.2, then finish it off with a new chassis, top deck & a few other bits designed by X-Factory UK.

On our high grip tracks over here, it's stunning, very, very fast round a track, my 3rd lap with one was faster then my 22-4


http://www.dms-racing.com/index.php?...category_id=99

cutting42

John nailed it in his post. Uses the plastic chassis nose piece from the cubed as well. I run it on a medium grip carpet indoor where it requires care setting up and the big AE weight between the shortie and motor to help rear on power grip. Lateral grip in the turn is insane and steering, OMG the steering. I am no expert driver but it has helped me lose over a second a lap and usually getting into one final higher including a few A's compared to my regular mid motor.

More and more drivers at my club are now switching and it is great to have some top drivers like John and a few others now driving and tuning the car.