4wd to 2wd conv.
 

I know it's a dumb question and I'm ready for the flaming, but I still would like to know why it's not an option. Or if it does have potential.

So my question is... is it possible to take a 4wd buggy like a cat k1, 22-4 , b44.3 etc. Lock the center diff remove the front cvds and run it as a 2wd buggy? Please don't say " why don't you just buy a 2wd" I'm curious why this would or would not work. Thanks guys!

tin snip the front shaft/belt.

It is possible and 1 manufacturer actually produces their 2wd kit based off their 4wd kit. The Xray XB4 2wd. A 4wd-2wd conversion does work in the right track conditions. It does best on very high bite,like carpet,AstroTurf,high bite clay,or groomed sugar outdoor tracks. Both 2wd and 4wd platforms drive differently and that's why they have such a different platform. Also weight distribution and handling play into it. I have done it to a Durango DEX410V3 and it wasn't horrible,but a 2wd buggy designed to be a 2wd buggy handled better on the medium-high bite clay I was testing it on. Maybe if I spent more time playing around with setup,I could have made it work,but it was better just to use my 2wd buggy for 2wd buggy and 4wd buggy for 4wd buggy.

The front end geometry and weight bias are completely different. You run almost double the caster and a lot less weight on the nose in 2wd

I don't believe any 10th scale buggies have a center diff stock; just slippers. So is it possible? Yes. Is it a good idea? Eh, Depending on your situation and what you want to do with the car: maybe.

it would work but you would have no rear grip!!! most 4x4 set-up in dirt is 50/50 weight rwd is something like 35/65. if i was to try it i would get some lead weights for the rear... move the front arm shock holes in so the front not so aggressive. it would probably be good on a high grip track!!! on low grip track you would haft to put more weight than you want(you be sometime like 15% more weight than a normal rear motor car of same weight % set-up) so you would be slower over all but low grip track slow is fast most the time and a heavy car is more consistent (but slower!!!). also if i had to pick a chassis it would be new school like the B44.3 or old school zx-5 with the motor in the back,you can push the lipo in the back and put the ESC on the top center brace to the back(or find some way to fit it in the middle of the lipo and motor) would be best + the zx-5 chassis has a lot of flex good for getting that extra grip.

don't forget the TM2 :nod:
http://evohobbies.com/rc-car-truck-k...ion-buggy.html
http://www.teamcracing.net/wp/wp-con...01/D305551.jpg

Take a look at RudeBits DB 1, DB 2, or DB Max

It will perfectly works on DEX410, but you will need to remove the front differential (it's easy) and front MIPs plus to change the front wheels with tires (the front 4wd tires doesn't works perfectly on the carpet). On the clay those conversion will not works due to low weight on the rear axle of DEX410. Only on carpet with minipin or pinpoint tires.

B44.3 and D413 come with center gear diffs.

I tried a B44 with disconnected front drive and it worked OK on mega grip tracks. I then stuck a X6 cubed front end on it to give a proper 2WD front end and it was awesome, then my local shop and XFactory importer built a proper conversion kit flipping the motor round called the X6-S which is taking the fight to the KF's in the UK.

Home made conversion early version, I added front bracing and cut down the rear brace in its final version
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...psa1a1e130.jpg


X6-S

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ps9757547e.jpg

I'm starting a project, I won't say what model buggy I'm using because you will laugh but any geometry/setup knowledge that is needed to get a 4wd to handle better as a 2wd is greatly appreciated. I will make a thread after the build and a couple track days of testing next to my b5m and 3racing cactus;If anyone's is interested in the results anyway....

I'd like to know more about this x6-s. What all is different from the cubed?

like i said before you need to move your shock on the bottom arm the most and it be good to run more angle at the top as well. you might need a stronger spring to make up for the angle and a custom towers to get the angle too. also try to get as much weight from the front end as possible that way you can run a skinny tire for side bite and still get steering (any extra weight will make it push not turn)a 4wd chassis is going to have more forward weight so no matter what you do it will push more(with same tires) . other then that it would be moving weight where you want or adding weight to where it need to be. for how much rear forward grip you need.

So front shocks all the way in to the inner most hole on the arm. And move the top of the shocks out? What about caster/camber is the front of a 4w going to have significantly different settings caster&camber wise? I really appreciate the help, thank you