no, actually I had to place a spacer on the stud because the screw that fastens the shock tower was too long, the more I think about it, the ideal method might be to use about an 18 to 20mm long screw to fasten the shock tower which would leave about 4mm of thread exposed, then use a threaded ball end on the back side.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7604/2...d93bbd0f_o.jpg

No chance of jacking up the gear box this way ;)

I also found that I got my fastest lap times with front 2WD tires mounted on front 4WD wheels, I was able to carry faster corner speed without risk of traction rolling which seemed to plague some of the other drivers in the class yesterday. Here's a sample of what I'm talking about where both wheels in the following picture are 60mm EVO 4WD front:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7015/2...65edc3f8_c.jpg

as a follow-up from my previous post, I'm finding that the 2WD front tires tend to push a little more than the 4WD fronts which makes the car handle a little more stable.

I've been experimenting with the AKA EVO wheels lately, and the hub is thicker than normal wheels which have been requiring me to use low profile nuts on the rear wheels, but I kinda like the idea of using serrated nylon locking nuts instead so I decided to use a 13mm (1/2") forstner bit to bore into the wheel and it worked like a charm!

Stock depth = 9.25mm (note the front EVO's are 2.25mm deep)
I cut about 3.5mm to 4mm into the wheel to get roughly 5.5mm thick hubs, I basically stopped cutting right when the interior webbing starts to show, so far I haven't compromised the durability of the wheel after a full day of racing :)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7291/2...176c946f_c.jpg



Note that there's a pinch of slop because the axles aren't quite thick enough to fill the space in the slot of the hole, but the slop goes away once you wrench down on the lock nut and it sets properly into the hex. Not really sure of any other EVO style wheel to try so this will have to do for now ;)

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7348/2...3653ac91_c.jpg

any news on a new car yet

Super Excited to get my New Intech Kits on the Track! I just finished building the ER-14 with HW 120A V3.1 and a 6.5 trinity motor! This will be run in the mod class and should be STUPID fast. Hopefully I can get some track time this Sunday as work has had me out of town prohibiting me from getting some. I've seen some setup sheets for astro, but does anyone have a good setup sheet for high bite clay?

Thanks,
Brandon

If anyone one wants a ER-14, PM me.... incredible deal awaits.

Astroturf tuning the ER24
 

Hi

I have an ER14 and after running on astro need some advice on tuning. Car was pretty good but traction rolling an area for improvement.

Cannot find the part numbers for option thicker antirollbars mentioned in the manual. anybody know where i can get then in Europe. Will other brands fit?

Secondly, any shock position tips.

Thirdly any shorter springs or ways to drop the ride height lower than stock springs allow, feel I need 2-3mm lower.

Help appreciated...Car is pretty darn good out of the box though...

As far as the ER-14 goes. To lower the ride height you can either use Xray XB4 springs or AE Big Bore springs. The Xray springs are shorter but if you still want lower ride heights even with stock springs (less than 19mm) then you need AE B5M spring perches and ball ends. AS91448 and AS91310 are the correct part numbers. You will need to space the rod end away from the wishbone a little as the lowest perch does hit the wishbone on full extension.

The car has way too much roll in it as standard and almost no negative camber gain. The biggest changes I made to effect the balance on the car were:

Lower the front turnbuckle to the outside lower hole on the front tower. The ball end will rub against the bulkhead a little, just remove a little material from the bulkhead. You can then add washers under the ball stud on the hub to add more camber gain at the front which will give it alot more bite should you need it.

Move the inner rear ballstud from the normal mounting holes down to the shock tower mounting hole. I used extra long Schumacher ball studs and rod ends. U3299, it is a shorter rod end so you might need a longer turnbuckle if memory serves (will check if needed). Also move the rear hub hinge pin to the inside mounting hole on the wishbone.

intech parts are back in usa email me at [email protected]

that's great news, are re-selling as a private party or official distributor? Will there be a website or Facebook Market page (or similar) coming soon as well?

Parts for 2wd buggy as well ?

yes 2wd buggy as well

Thank you sir

[email protected] for info

intech parts and kits www.tracksidehobby.com also looking for team drivers for 2018 in the usa

I'm trying to help another guy buy an ER-14 battery tray, but can't find any INTECH parts on your website, what's the deal with your inventory?