32.5 ae front and rear
Ae shock bottoms
Blue ae front springs, 5mm cup ae, outside hole on arm, 2nd hole on tower
White ae rear spring, 0mm cup, 2nd hole on tower, outside hole on arm
20mm ride height
6.0 reedy
4500 100 venom

Adjustable motor mount for the ER-14 on its way. One part the racers have been asking for from Intech.

http://www.redrc.net/2016/05/intech-...m-motor-mount/

when will it be in stock at Dialed-RC Hobbies??

http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...MotorMount.jpg
Yep! It looks nice!

so our local club is starting up a 13.5T Super Stock class and I've been working on my ER-14 using Gene's setup and have been having a hard time getting the weight of the car down to the min weight restriction of 1613g... I'm currently at 1669g and need to drop another 56g. I've already switched to a LCG LiPo, titanium screws, lightened battery tray mod and flipped the rear arms.

Does anyone know if there are titanium crown/bevel gears available for the diffs?
How about a lightened body?
I'm thinking of replacing the ball studs/turnbuckles with titanium next... any other ideas on how I can drop some more weight?

Kinda leaning toward drilling into the chassis to help lighten the load, but really want to save that as a last resort.

*** UPDATE

Something like this is what I'm looking for, but compatible with the ER-14:
http://www.rcracer.com/2015/01/xray-...loy-diff-gear/

Intech has not made any light wight options yet even though I have asked many times. But I ran mine stock except some titanium ball studs and still TQ'd and won the Regionals on slicks indoors. Use a good motor like a Trinity 24k with a fan and it will be plenty fast enough in 13.5T. But rotating mass is the most important thing, not overall weight.

glad to hear it's still competitive with mostly box stock parts... I actually dropped 150g of weight already with the mods I applied, but yeah rotating mass is tough to reduce without a proper mill. Thanks!

Honestly the mass helps with smoothness. I would focus on freeing the drivetrain up as much as possible. This helps lower motor temps and gives back a lot of performance that is being hidden from the drivetrain. A good quality ceramic bearing with triflow or TKO bearing oil helps out a ton.

funny you mention ceramic bearings, I placed an order for a set from AVID yesterday... gonna try the "Ceramic Revolution" series with the metal shield exposed and rubber seals removed on the inside. I've heard that ceramic bearings weigh less and removing the rubber seals should help eliminate a little more rotating mass as well. I was curious what bearing oils folks were using as well... I'm guessing with the rubber shields removed, I'll probably need to clean them a little more regularly.

Thanks

I am not sure how removing a rubber seal is going to affect rotating mass as it doesnt spin. Weightwise I do not see them as much of a loss, its the effect of the ceramic staying truer with the heat. Also ceramic bearings are not packed with a thick grease. This helps with the freer rotation they have. I never recommend removing bearing seals.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bear...-bearings.html

billdelong - All I did to the stock bearings was remove a seal and add Dry Fluid Extreme -- spins as free as my 2wd. As the other guys said, I run a Maclan 13.5 and don't have any issues with the weight holding me back. My eyesight and driving --- that's another issue. But the speed and agility of the car is there.

my AVID ceramic bearings arrived today, they weigh exactly the same as the rubber sealed bearings that came in the kit, with the rubber shields removed on one side the total weight reduction of all 18 shields came out to 0.7g... looking forward to running Gene's setup for Super Stock on Saturday!

I'm gonna try the stock grease that shipped from AVID for this first race day in the bearings, then compare lap times later with other PFTE dry lube's.

you guys were right, the heavier ER-14 performed just as good as all the other name brands on the track today, several folks were asking questions about my car, it was really hooked up with Gene's setup and I look forward to running this class more regularly :D

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7616/2...48c0a74e_b.jpg

During practice, I got taken out by a eBug and stripped out the gear box where I had the ball stud threaded because the rear arms were reversed, so I fastened the links back onto the shock tower and made it through the rest of the day without any breaks.

Are you using the longer 10mm ball studs in the rear bulkhead?