TMann

How tight are you guys have your servo saver nut?

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

The washers shown in the parts diagram are 3mmx8mm. I looked again and found them. They were up inside the V-shaped brace so not really doing anything. The washers like the bearing are just pushed up into the hole on the underside of the brace. So I still think, nothing in the design is holding the bearing down in the top of the servo saver.

tip: use longer servo mount screws....
Another thing I noticed when I changed servos..... The screws that hold the servo mount to the chassis plate are too short. The servo mount is plastic and they simply threaded the plastic which isn't a great idea in the first place. With the stock screws M3x8, there is very little thread engagement. I could feel the threads starting to strip when I put the new servo in. The good news is that you can use much longer screws. I used either 12 or 14mm, can't remember which now. The threaded holes are plenty deep.

motoj550

iTrader: (26)

i run mine really really tight with blue loc-tite but i run good servos with good metal gears in them.

TMann

Thanks! My servo is new and MG also. I will tighten it up a lot then.

TMann

I'm rebuilding the center diff right now, the manual shows to use a spring on the dowel pin between the diff gears. This is only for the center diff. The rear and front don't use a spring Are you guys using it? Seems like it makes unwanted friction, and cause the gears to wear the inside of the case housing... ?

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

I have not had mine apart to that level so can't help.

motoj550

iTrader: (26)

i still have my spring in the center diff, also i'm running 5-5-2 oil
5,000 front
5,000 center
2,000 rear
these oils work great on indoor clay track.

TMann

I decided to leave the spring out. Running 7.5k F, 10k C, 5k R. I mixed the 5k and 10k 50/50 to get the 7.5k. Save money!

I can only think of, is that it was in there for more resistance on the bevel gears, less shock to the driveline? I don't know for sure, but the 10K oil should slow it down more than the stock grease that was in there.

TMann

I'm having trouble programming the esc. Anyone have a video, programming card, or better instructions?

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

Are you running the stock ESC? I have attached the instruction for it. If you have an older Hobby Wing card, it may well work. Like this one:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywi...501003/p485638

If it works and displays number, ignore the chart on the card and use the chart in the attached file for the order and value of parameters.

My original ESC blew out. I suggest you replace yours. I bought this one
http://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=348
the EZrun WP 80A which turns out to not be exactly waterproof but otherwise has been working well. It also turns out that it is an older "V1" type ESC so you would need the LED card posted above and not the newer LCD card to program it. I think I posted all this either here or in the Hobbywing thread.

If I had it to do again, I think I would get the Castle Sidewinder 3.

I sent my blown ESC back to Tower for warranty replacement and they sent an ARRMA 60amp ESC with no fan. I have not tried it yet but it does program with the HW LED card..

TMann

Thanks for the info! What's weird they sent you a 60A esc. I would have complained. I'm going to try and program it again later. I think I was able to do the master reset to it last night. I've been trying to find the old version hobbywing card, because it has less features and no display. I can't find it!

This is a clone of the stock ESC and you can get a program card.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/tracksta...-10th-80a.html

I have had good luck with the Chinese GoolRC ESC's, as long as you only run 2S and run a larger amp version.

TMann

I got my cutback running finally! Its really Awesome! The only issue I have now is the truck only goes in reverse about half the time when I am standing very close to the truck. It never works far away. Is this a ESC or transmitter issue?

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

ESC without a doubt. If you search back for some of my other posts you will see I had the same issue. I changed out the RX/TX to Spektrum and the reverse still had problems. If you search back even further, you will see others had the issue with reverse. The ESC had other problems and then it literally went up in smoke.

This is why I suggested a few posts back that you change the ESC before you have a fire. Look back to see specifically what I bought and what else I suggest.

TMann

Thanks, I did search and found your post on RCGroups. I have been looking for a new esc...

I pressed new alloy dowel pins into the drive shafts and rear dog bones. Used 2.5x12mm for the end that goes into the diff outdrives, and 2.5x10mm to the axles. I did install the upgraded front and rear center drive shafts with the CV joints. So The old ones will be backup.

rhodesengr

iTrader: (1)

also just back a few pages here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post14752250
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post14754899
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post14759096

the issues with the old/new programmer are here in the Hobbywing thread.

When I bought the HW, I was constrained by the plan to put it where the poriginal one was located, up front under the front brace. So I was concerned about size. In the end, I mounted the new one to the top of the RX box. So you could put a a larger one in that location.

If I was buying one today, I'd probably get the Castle Sidewinder 3. Post back what you end up getting.