TheWorstDriver

When you add all that up, its gotta be a huge change in feel, hows the rotation mid corner and exit?

DJ78

Forgot to add that I went from 21-23mm ride height for 8-holes to 23,5-24,5mm height with 6-holes. Also went back to stock swaybars. Shorty battery and
this new shock setup car rolls nice and works better on holes and have more grip than 8-hole pistons. I have still lot of steering that my friend didnt like when he tried my car but for me its just good, he didnt get out of corners straight enough with that much steering on power.
Max kickup, accerman middle hole, +1 caster inserts with long front link and 10k mid diff.
One thing I will test is 20g mounted front of rear bulkhead when track gets rough. I did test this with Nitro car and car just accelerated over bumps like they werent there. That did slow down steering a bit but thats most notable 20g I have tested on heavy car.

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

Could you elaborate on what you did with the curves in each area? Or pic of graph?
I'm pretty comfortable with the throttle on my setup, probably because I've been running electric for a while now and have the punch setting quite low (3 of 10 from memory), but I'm open to trying new things on the throttle front, and the braking in particular I do want to soften the exp curve a bit. I found sometimes I over-brake which makes me try to brake less (when I shouldn't) - The max force isn't very high (50% I think), but I was thinking of winding down the exp so I get much less of that initially.

I'm running a very similar setup, 1.3 front and 1.4 back with similar oils, seems to drive well but front feels noticeably slower pushing on the car and I wouldn't mind a little more front bite (instead of rear) on tighter/slipperier corners.
I was thinking of going a little lighter in the front oil and keeping the 450cst I have in rear, but should I try larger holes (or 3x 1.4) in front instead?

@TheWorstDriver, are the MIP pistons similar to the Xray ones with the flap? What are the main benefits?
I'm guessing it'd allow more compression damping for a given amount of rebound damping so it could recover between successive bumps better without wallowing / rolling excessively like if you just went softer in oil or springs. I'll have to try them sometime.

DJ78

I went to 3x 1.3mm and 3x 1.4mm at front with 600cst. This felt better than just 1.3mm at front. You can do 6x 1.35mm but i didnt have drill for that. Front end feels abit heavy at pit table but works nice at track. I feel 6x 1.4mm at front will be too big as front shocks mounted inner part of lower arms than some other cars.
I also did run other car with 400 and 500cst at rear and 500 was better but 450 worked best for out current weather.
You can also play with out travel to get fine tuning for balance in turns. My happy medium is 106/126mm but that with C-hubs and rear hub lower position.

TheWorstDriver

So I drilled my MIP pistons out to 1.35 x 6 hole and ran 550 CST front/450cst rear. Results are TQ and lap the field in yesterdays race. This setup generates enough traction (at 90 deg outside air), that I switched tire compound to a medium (AKA brand), to free the car back up in corners. This is now my bumpy, big boy, outdoor track setup moving forward. lol. The only thing I will now go back and test are sway bars. The MIPs are allowing my car to change stances faster, and still give me the pack I need for bumps and big jumps. Its the down-stroke from the flaps on the MIP pistons that allow the quicker return of tire to the ground, and the chassis to roll/set the sway bar pressure quicker in corners. Thats why finding the right sway bars might squeeze the last bit of speed out of this buggy. The stock 1.3 x 6 hole Xray pistons are probably really good for most conditions, but when it gets harsh, its MIP. Again,... this is from a rough, large, outdoor track perspective.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Raced today and had a blast!!The XRAY handled great and a fellow XRAY driver is hooking me up with some good sources nearby for parts. I am not that good, but was able to take third in the B main. My buddies got the bump spot. The car was really smooth, and once I got the track somewhat down, I got a lot faster. Two other guys were right on my butt, same lap, and I held them off for third place. This car makes me look good. That Tekin 250 servo is amazingly smooth as well, stays on point. The cars that beat me are running truggy motors.

TheWorstDriver

Very nice! I love when I have a good run like that, its what RC racing is all about. Make a setup sheet of your settings, as a known good setup. good job!

platgof

iTrader: (4)

Ha ha, stock! Running all Tekin electronics. It was super dusty and tires were everything. I had plenty of power, and actually went faster when I turned it down as the tires were spinning too much. This car handles great, no problem there. It is a rough and tricky track for sure, super large. The biggest rc track I ever raced. I crashed a lot and nothing broke. When the race ended I was really picking up some speed, bummer.Just starting to catch up with second when it stopped.

DJ78

Xray XB8E Setup
Here is my latest XB8E setup from race. Car was so good I did manage to TQ and Win Nationals round 3 with it. Track was clay and pretty smooth all day. Racing line was also staying clean. Did run also HB megabite and AKA P1 during day but Holeshot felt easiest to drive. Before last round im leading championship so its looking better after every race.

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I had such a blast the last time I raced this car. I am hoping for cooler weather soon so it will be more pleasant. I am not a good racer so it takes time before I get the hang of it. At the end of the race I was really flying. I made some adjustments to the handling as in the sheet above, we shall see. Hard to get the springs, as in "out of stock".

platgof

iTrader: (4)

I noticed my battery tray was flexing too much and the spur gear was moving in on the battery tray. So I put two huge blobs of rtv under the right hand side of the battery tray, fore and aft, to stop movement and add some cushion as well.

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

Hey TheWorstDriver, could you share some pics or info of your throttle/brake curves? I asked earlier (quoted below) but you maybe missed it.
Appreciate the details on the MIP pistons, I'll probably give your exact setup a go when I get the chance to buy some.

EvilR2.0

uDi_MP7.5

iTrader: (3)

Not sure if it helps (definitely not official) but I've found the front XB8 springs to also work on the rear for when you want a much stiffer sprung rear for heavy rotation on very tight tracks.
From memory they came with an extra pair of front progressives in slightly different rate, I've run them as rears on a spare buggy for nearly a year now, they cover the stroke length fine even though theoretically mightn't last as long.

I would imagine Mugen springs to fit but haven't tried yet. Please share what you find.

DJ78

I did test HB Yellow springs as they are little harder but were too hard for our track. Others have tested Kyosho light Blue springs and I think Kyosho had also Gray springs.