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Old 11-08-2015, 09:59 PM
  #2431  
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What is a solution in place of the kit bodies wing when you need a replacement aside from buying a whole new body?
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Old 11-08-2015, 10:48 PM
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JCO0147......this is the JConcepts part # for a replacement wing.

Last edited by QDRHRSE; 11-09-2015 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 11-09-2015, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
What is a solution in place of the kit bodies wing when you need a replacement aside from buying a whole new body?
Why would you just not make one if you needed a replacement they are very simple. flat piece of lexan and 2 bends.
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:39 AM
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Ok had my second race this past Saturday, finally got my truck to jump how I want it to, but noticed another problem, it has the turning radius of a train. most of our track layouts are technical, with several tight turns, and my truck is fast enough to keep up with or pass anyone else in the class in the straight, but they get me in the corners because they can take them tighter than I can. My springs and oils are stock per the manual, and I run the Brass D mount, a square battery as I mentioned before. And I added a 7oz. lead stick on weight at the rear of the side pods, and this race I had also changed to the 3 gear transmission. I know I need to get a different tire and will have them before next race, which will help me some. but as far a s setup goes what can I do? should I remove all the weights and go totally stock box setup.
The guy who won stock SCT with his SC5M told me to take the 2mm washers off the steering and change them to 1mm which I think he said changed my ackerman, and he also told me to take the 3mm off the rear camber link and make it 2. is this correct and did it help he was fast and very smooth so I figured he know what he was talking about, if so what else can I do to help it turn better. what does changing the front camber link washers? Also our track is high bite and well taking care of a few are even running the slicks for tires.
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
What is a solution in place of the kit bodies wing when you need a replacement aside from buying a whole new body?
dont wreck
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by rob martin
dont wreck
Wrecking wasn't the issue. It's called a wife. She threw the wing away when cleaning off the table
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
Wrecking wasn't the issue. It's called a wife. She threw the wing away when cleaning off the table
Time to do some digging!
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Old 11-09-2015, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
Wrecking wasn't the issue. It's called a wife. She threw the wing away when cleaning off the table
haha now thats funny.
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Old 11-09-2015, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rob martin
haha now thats funny.
That's happened to me so many times with wings, screws, you name it. If its not bolted onto the car its in the trash.
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve
Wrecking wasn't the issue. It's called a wife. She threw the wing away when cleaning off the table
JC has a replacement for the mid truck bodies!
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Ok had my second race this past Saturday, finally got my truck to jump how I want it to, but noticed another problem, it has the turning radius of a train. most of our track layouts are technical, with several tight turns, and my truck is fast enough to keep up with or pass anyone else in the class in the straight, but they get me in the corners because they can take them tighter than I can. My springs and oils are stock per the manual, and I run the Brass D mount, a square battery as I mentioned before. And I added a 7oz. lead stick on weight at the rear of the side pods, and this race I had also changed to the 3 gear transmission. I know I need to get a different tire and will have them before next race, which will help me some. but as far a s setup goes what can I do? should I remove all the weights and go totally stock box setup.
The guy who won stock SCT with his SC5M told me to take the 2mm washers off the steering and change them to 1mm which I think he said changed my ackerman, and he also told me to take the 3mm off the rear camber link and make it 2. is this correct and did it help he was fast and very smooth so I figured he know what he was talking about, if so what else can I do to help it turn better. what does changing the front camber link washers? Also our track is high bite and well taking care of a few are even running the slicks for tires.
I just raced mine for the first time this past Sunday. I ran it box stock and really close to stock setup except for a 3 gear, aluminum steering links and aluminum hexes. The only changes I made were 30wt oil in the rear shocks and red springs on the front. I set the ride height at 30mm front and 28mm rear with a shorty battery. My track is medium bite and very bumpy. The truck jumped perfectly and I had all the steering I could use. My suggestion to you is to get the right tires for your track and get them broken in before you start chasing setup. I would think about dumping the 7oz of weight as well.
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Braxamus
Ok had my second race this past Saturday, finally got my truck to jump how I want it to, but noticed another problem, it has the turning radius of a train. most of our track layouts are technical, with several tight turns, and my truck is fast enough to keep up with or pass anyone else in the class in the straight, but they get me in the corners because they can take them tighter than I can. My springs and oils are stock per the manual, and I run the Brass D mount, a square battery as I mentioned before. And I added a 7oz. lead stick on weight at the rear of the side pods, and this race I had also changed to the 3 gear transmission. I know I need to get a different tire and will have them before next race, which will help me some. but as far a s setup goes what can I do? should I remove all the weights and go totally stock box setup.
The guy who won stock SCT with his SC5M told me to take the 2mm washers off the steering and change them to 1mm which I think he said changed my ackerman, and he also told me to take the 3mm off the rear camber link and make it 2. is this correct and did it help he was fast and very smooth so I figured he know what he was talking about, if so what else can I do to help it turn better. what does changing the front camber link washers? Also our track is high bite and well taking care of a few are even running the slicks for tires.
Firstly if your on a high bite surface get rid of the extra weight, then use white springs on the front and back, the 1mm washer on the steering rack will give you better turn in, less washers on the front link can help with off power steering too.
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:59 AM
  #2443  
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I don't want to get into it with Braxamus about what I think his issues actually are but I find it hard to believe he added 7ozs on the side pods. That would be close to 200 grams.....It was probably 7 grams on each side which isn't alot....most tire weights that we use are 7g or .25 oz.

A stadium truck is the best turning off road platform there is. With a square pack and good traction the box set up should have enough steering that you could even dial some out by adjusting the EPA. In fact, after tires, that's what I would look into....EPA.

Understanding what your changes do helps too. If your going to take advice from some fast guy at the track at least figure out what the net effect of the changes is/are. Don't set your car up like Cav if you don't drive like Cav. It'll never work out.
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Old 11-10-2015, 05:43 AM
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Understanding what your changes do helps too. If your going to take advice from some fast guy at the track at least figure out what the net effect of the changes is/are. Don't set your car up like Cav if you don't drive like Cav. It'll never work out.[/QUOTE]

+1000
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:11 AM
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I agree with both of you guys ^^ as I like to also know what the changes do when someone tells me to do it, so that I actually learn something. It is hard to actually find good info as everyone you talk to has a different way to do stuff, and it's hard to filter out the good from bad, as well as figuring out that the 2 different things 2 guys told you are actually the same thing just different ways of getting there. Saturday was a frustrating day as they combined our class with another during practice to save some time and I had a guy try to drive thru me with a SCT and broke a front arm and my steering and I was just willing to try whatever.
What I am going to do before next race is remove all lead I added (not sure of the size will look tonight), will get a different set of tires as well should I remove the Brass D mount as well and go totally stock and start over from there? all help is greatly appreciated and just looking for honest feedback and answers and not going to get into it with anyone over info they give as I am just trying to figure this out.
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