I think I'm good now, took a fresh look at it and with your guys' help I got it.
It was almost 3am when I got hung up on this, amazing what some sleep does for the mind:)

Thanks guys.

Alan, generally speaking yes, more weight on the tires gives them more traction. But there are a lot of other factors to consider, shock pack, spring rate, bump steer, camber, tires, roll center, Ackermann, etc. Just remember that steering (turning radius) and steering response (feel) are two different things. Also, I am by no means an expert, I pulled the block info out of the Hudy off road tuning guide.

Yeah lol. I'm just trying to learn too

Any suggestions on battery placement with a shorty pack in MM configuration?

Ok I got it all built up and now I have a ride height issue that has me scratching my head. I have almost 40mm of ride height front and rear, even if I loosen the spring collars all the way and then turn them until they just touch the spring (stock springs). I did not run any limiters on the shocks as almost every dingle setup I looked at did not have any on there so I figured it'd be a good starting point. I can't see the springs needing to have a lot of freeplay to get the ride height, they would clank around when jumping so what am I missing? My shock lengths looked good still but could it just be that I need limiters?

I had the same issue, I ran the limiters in the front like the book said, plus I had to switch to short shock ends. I have the collars all the way up to where there is barely any contact with the collars. I run saddles so I have a little more weight helping me out. I have noticed after a couple of runs that the springs have seemed to settle a little. In my Z main TQing opinion the springs are a little too long.

Ok at least I'm not going crazy.
Did you run any in the rear? I already have the short ends on it but I'll definitely rebuild the fronts with the 2mm spacers.

None in the back which surprised me, those bad boys are long. I'm coming from an SC10 which has some long shocks. Every set up for AE has limiters in the rear at a minimum.

transmission help
 

I have destroyed 2 sets of idler gears and topshafts in the past 6 races. I was wondering if anyone has recommendations on how to check the transmission for endplay and if I should purchase some shims for the idler gears? I have all new parts on the way and I would love to be able to install them with confidence. Also my ball diff is very tight and crunchy, would this contribute to premature transmission failure? Is it ok to use white lithium grease on the gears?I run at a small indoor highbite carpet track. Running a 13.5 mid motor 20/81 gearing with Schumacher yellow minipins.

Yes. It is ok to use white lithium grease on the transmission gears. Just put four dabs on the diff gear and spin it with the other gears in the trans to spread it around. Not to much because it can be a mess. As far as the diff its self, it sounds like to have it too tight. When the diff is set correctly wile holding one wheel and spinning the other it should only spin about one complete revolution. I would replace the diff rings and thrust bearings too. Following this procedure I have never had a ball diff go bad after 6 races. I have raced on mine the whole summer and still feels like it did when I first put it together.

I feel your pain, I've only had mine out 3 times and I smoked one of my idlers Saturday. Not sure if it really works or not but I have heard that if you buy the aluminum idler and alternate metal/ plastic, top shaft- plastic idler- aluminum idler- main gear, that it is supposed to take care of the problem. I've only stripped one in my RB6 in a year, maybe the added weight of the truck is stressing them more?

Wow I really hope that is a fluke .

Yeah I hope so too.
Still need to get my truck out for it's maiden run but so far the tranny feels great. I did find some people mentioning that it felt tight when building it like "all other Kyosho trannys". I've had an RB6 and did not experience this.
I built this tranny with Schelle bearings and did my usual 1 drop of 50wt shock oil on each gear and when it was all buttoned down it felt great, very little resistance. I had bought cut gears for this one and decided to not run them in the end, maybe that was a good move after all...

mine was very free from the start. i soak my bearings in zippolighter fluid and then they get some avid slip. super free.

When I built my trans I didn't clean anything. I just assembled it as the instructions told me with the exception of a little white lithium grease on the diff gear and ran it till it broke in. Now the trans spins forever when the motor does not have the pinon on it. I have also in the 8 years I have ran the Kyosho brand only shredded 2 idler gears and that was do to my neglect of the trans. It is crazy to me how many people have this problem. I would think it is related to how the Diff it's self is set.