I wonder if you all got a bad batch of gears from a bad run at Kyosho? People have been running the xx6 cars at my track and this is the first I have heard of idler gears having stripping issues.

I made a post on the Kyosho nation FB page and it don't seem to unheard of

I haven't had an issue with them. I have the slipper set pretty much what it says in the manual which off the top of my head - 7mm for spring. Seems to work pretty good for me.

The problem only seems to be occurring in Mod with Mid Motor setup. Something must be flexing to cause the mesh to be altered which strips the gears. Still not sure exactly what is causing it, but I just replaced the entire gearbox (bearings, casing, pins, top shaft, avid clutch). I will report back if the problem arises again.

BTW...Replacing the shock rod ends with ones that have steel pivot balls fixed my problem

What Jconcepts "Hazzard" style wheels work on the SC6?

Could the motor plate be flexing or possibly warped? If so, I would think this could potentially cause the spur to vibrate and cause movement within the gearbox (or, since the gearbox is attached to the motor plate, maybe it causes the actual gearbox to "warp"). Just a thought.

Maybe give the Jconcepts motor plate a try which is thicker than stock:

https://www.jconcepts.net/shop/jconc...mb-motor-mount

I was going to post this last night but didn't think this was the problem. My sons rb6 motor plate was bent, noticably bent but we never had any issues with eating up gears. It's gotta be something else.

Slash 4x4/blitz/slash rear. NOT slash front.

HAZARD - SLASH REAR, SLASH 4X4 F&R WHEEL

https://www.jconcepts.net/sites/defa...1bwy_800px.jpg

Hey guys....is everyone running the stock clutch? I have a rear motor set up with a tekin and a 8.5. thanks

Houston we have a problem... I got my new idler gears today and was rebuilding my MM tranny. Everything was going good until I tighten the last 2 bottom screws that go through the chassis (I had already tighten the 4 screws on top). When I tighten them, the gears would get tight (checking by spinning the spur without motor hooked up). I could feel the gears binding inside the case. If I backed off those 2 bottom screws it would free up again. Tighten them up and I could feel binding.... Here's what I think is happening. It is direct relationship with how thick of a spacer you have under the rear bulkhead. Since the back of the tranny sets on the bulkhead, it will affect the distance to the chassis. If there is any gap between the chassis and tranny it deforms the case as you tighten the bottom screws. I wish I would have loosened the top front screws and then tightened the bottom screws and checked it. I would almost bet there would have been a gap between the front top of the tranny and the brace (detail 127) that it screws to.... Clear as mud??

This is pretty interesting. Great find! For clarification purposes, are the spacers/shims you are referring to are included in UM726 and UM508C?

I am running the Schelle Nova Slipper Clutch with a Reedy M2 13.5 in mine.

Yes those spacers... This will give a better picture
Attachment 1271052