Anyone have any experience with the Hot Racing TVS vented slipper conversion? Good/bad? I am currently running an exotek slipper eliminator. I know when I weighed the stock slipper assembly vs. the exotek; the exotek was lighter and shaved some weight. I would guess this slipper would weigh more than the exotek. Does anyone know if this weighs more than the stock slipper?

Will my standard AE spur gears work or do I need to buy a special aftermarket spur? Lastly, does the standard AE bell cover fit or is another one required?

Your better off getting the Schelle slipper clutch kit its proven and good I think they might have vented slipper disk as a hop up .

Schelle makes slipper eliminater.

What size flat sensor wire is needed for the B5m with 3-gear setup ? 150mm ?

In theory isnt it the same whether 3 or 4 gear? 175mm I think if your route the sensor wire perfectly under the battery.

Hey guys, been searching through the thread but haven't really found an answer. I'm looking to throw a laydown in my B5M but not sure whether to go with the YZ2 or shapeways conversion. I was looking for any insight you may have as far as quality and durability of the shapeways, and what your experiences have been with either. Thanks in advance

Both require that you have some basic fabrication skills, drill bit, a counter sink.

Yz2 + excellent quality parts.
Replacements are easily sourced.
More durable parts.
Option for front mounted shocks(requires YZ2 tower)

- More expensive.
requires more fabrication.
cut AE idler will not fit.

Shapeways + Slightly cheaper.
Less holes to drill.
All AE trans parts drop in.

- Bearing clearance.
Weaker parts.
No front shock mount option.

Really it kinda depends on the surface you plan on running. If its high grip
carpet then a front mounted shock might be a big deal for you. If its astro
or high grip clay then maybe the simpler shapeways will be a better option.

Finish either off with some adjustable axle height B6 hubs and you have a
pretty competitive car.

I'm running this setup. You will also have to buy the B6 axle/hex because it's 1 mm longer between the bearings. You should also run the B6 hat bushings as the fit is very tight tolerance on the B6.
The mod does reduce most of the front end slop. Stick with the B5 ball ends on the camber links, they last longer than the B6 ball cups.

I've been reading for a few weeks on tuning/setups and have seen the setup sheets (I don't have a phone more intelligent than me).

My question is what is the order of operations for making adjustments? I bought my care used so I have no idea what wt oil is in the shocks, etc. I am going to take the front end apart and copy a setup sheet and eventually change the oil. It had probably -4 degree camber in the rear so I took that down to -1 and again it helped but still pretty easy to break loose.

My issue is the car has no rear traction when I try to accelerate just whips donuts. Am I just being too punchy on the throttle?

I've loosened up my slipper which helped and tried a few set of tires but it's still really loose. Do I start w/ changing the gearing and going up a few teeth? My motor after 20 minutes is only 90 degrees. It does not have an adjustable end bell...

Do I leave everything as is and change the oil out to like 35 in front and 30 in the rear?

Doesnt sound like a shock oil issue. To be honest any used rc car should be torn down completely and rebuilt. It's probably built wrong or has weird shimming going on. That would be my first move with any used rc. Manual for this can be found on the manufacturers web site

Are you on a low grip track? Dusty? Brass C block helps for rear traction.
If you have a factory lite chassis, you can also add 1mm plates in the triangle recesses in the chassis. I put lead sheets stuck on with thin double sided tape in mine (hope you can see it on n the photo). The lead Adds about 20grams.

I have a factory Light b5m, I have never deviated from the stock set-up except for oil weights, camber and i have the brass C block. I find camber is the easiest thing to change that has Positive results. I start with -1.5 front and rear and go from there, also I run the gullwing front end, it make the care feel more consistent & not as aggressive steering wise for me. Track conditions is the biggest factory. I run usually semi grooved to hight bite tracks,rarely really bumpy just normal small ruts in the track & i run 32.5 all around

Hey guys,

I want to upgrade the rear hexes of my B5r. Didn't do any changes on the kit, all box stock.

I did a little search on this thread and I'm a bit confused - which clamping rear hexes do I need for my B5r for a direct replace with the kit plastic hexes without changing the width of the rear axle?

Would it be
#91442 or
#91610 ?

Or any other part# I didn't find?


Appreciate your help :)

The facebook b5m page was great and guys there really helped. I took the car apart and noticed I had a bent hinge pin so I replaced that and polished everything to make sure it was moving freely. The bearing were filthy so I cleaned and oiled them. Once everything was moving freely I started to put it back together.

The track is medium to high. I grabbed a setup sheet and just followed that as closely as I could. I'm not sure what rear pills it had in it they were white w/ no marks but I went w/ the 3 + 1. If I had to guess this was the biggest change. I also changed to 32.5 oil in the front and 30 in the rear. It had the pistons and washers that matched the setup sheet so that was nice. I went to a 32T pinion w/ a 69T spur. The rear camber was prob -4 so I took that to -1.

Car had a LOT more traction and was very easy to drive. I think I need to make a few more tweaks to ride height and try the gold compound tires (I had silvers on) and it will be great. I was also a little punchy and too agressive on the jumps....I didn't realize the car I was following around was a mod car. They could clear the triple easily and wasn't able too. The diff is a little gritty so I need to rebuild that prior to next trip to the track....baby steps though....baby steps.

White pills with no marks are either something someone printed up or the plus 2mm Schelle inserts used to be white. That would definitely make the car mor loose

Esc for 10.5 2wd b5m and gearing
 

Looking for advice on what amp esc i should use in b5m with a smc 10.5 turn and also what tooth spur and pinion