Thanks guys can't tell a lot of setup right now deployed at moment be home in 2 months just trying to get solutions to try when u get back running D3.5 7.5 stock tranny avid slipper 5600 mah 60c saddle pack x rings grey springs can't remember piston center shock positions on all can't recall bulk head or rear mount

for Scott class is anybody running a slipper eliminator?

I do. What do you want to know?

Thank you for your service.

A 7.5 is a LOT of motor for someone new to this, especially for an outdoor track. Let's start there, and cut back to either a 13.5 or 17.5 (No Boost) until you learn a little more RC based trigger discipline.

I ran into an issue this past weekend, and I thought I would share. My daughters car kept breaking or popping shock eclips while racing. I just kept blindly replacing them. This weekend, it happened again. Upon inspection, the piston seemed a bit loose on the shaft. So I pulled out a new "kit" piston and checked the fitting and it was much more snug. In fact, the older pistons were literally flopping around. It appears that over time the hole had worn and the piston became sloppy, thus started to torque on the eclips. This caused them to either pop off or break the clips. Also, once this happenes, the shaft may not move up and down correctly, causing additional wear on your hat bushings. Make sure your pistons are snug on the shaft and the shock bushings are good, or you could end up causing yourself much more issues.


Also, there was a guy that did a bunch of shock testing and analysis. He discovered that the biggest impact to shock piston performance was loose and flexing pistons. The kit pistons are not very snug, so I plan to run machined when ever possible.

i noticed some lash on my rear shocks last weekend (not sure if that's the right word. at the start of the up stroke on the bench i could feel sort of like a delay, hard to explain). took them apart and there was up and down play with the piston on the shaft. i put some kyosho 0.2mm shims on top of the bottom e-clip and it's gone now.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/kyosho-...kyo96641/p3868

Many things can contribute to this.
Whats your shock set-up front and rear?
Do you have flat front arms up front with the RM front shock tower?
Do you have too aggressive front tires?
RM rear arms?
Battery location?
Running ideal rear tires?

It could be a combination of those even?

I did exactly the same thing building my new shocks last week. My driving abilities likely would never notice the difference, but there was definitely slop in the piston that warranted some fine shims to tighten things up (Tamiya shims in my case).

Check your shock fluids had the same issue with my B5 rear and once I changed fluids my rear traction came back.

I battled this for a while. Fairly the same thing. I reused my machined pistons from my b4. They were super wore. Started blowing shocks left and right. Replaced pistons with new machined ones to eliminate piston "wobble" on the shaft. Used some cheap Durango shims to help snug up the vertical slop. Also Kyle@W3 suggested some traxxas eclips that were much stronger. Finally, I noticed the slot in the shaft that the eclip rides in was a little marred (from busting eclips off) so I just replaced them both (love those cheap non-coated shafts @~$5).

TLDR: I'm back to over jumping stuff and flat landing jumps like a champ.

At cactus, I had some new machined pistons that were snug. Lost an eclip, probably because of the cheap ones. Like a idiot, I finished my qualifier, knowing that something was wrong with the car. When, I got to the pits the new machines piston was DONE, DONE DONE. It had so much play it would deflect 45 deg. So, if you decide to finish the heat with an eclip off, be prepared to toss your pistons in the trash. Maybe the hat bushings also. PM me that shims you used to "snug" it up more. I would assume they need to be really thing. Also, tlr machined pistons are some of the tightest on the shaft. Mine literally, snapped into place. I would like to see shock shafts with a nut on them like the d413. eclips are so 1980s, lol

After running ultra light weight cars for a few weeks I think that I prefer a car closer to 1500 grams. For the first time ever I can say that an AE box setup didn't work at all for me. My lite(s) with severe weight reduction were a handful out of the box and I had to make a lot of changes to make them work on our high traction sugared blue groove. Among the problems I encountered were low grip and not enough steering. As odd as it sounds when I tried to use a heavier battery pack, with no other changes, I lost steering!

I took a different approach with 2 very similar cars. For one, I used Kody N's OCRC set up and the other I used a normal sized pack(4400 vs 3250), added some droop in the front (21.25 mm), went to the outside shock position on the rear arm, and went with a grey spring in the rear. I picked up a second and a half with car 1 and my friend who is a sponsored driver for another company set the TQ and won stock buggy with car 2 (he doesn't have a stock buggy). Granted he's already fast, but he did smoke the field in a car he's never used and beat other friends that are competitive with him. It was an upset.

Anyway, when I bought my Lite I was supposed to run it totally out of the box stock and I couldn't do it....I'm going to buy another and try again. Its interesting what you learn by experimenting.

Let me know when that virgin is up for sale - I am at a point where a whole new car will be a better option over completely rebuilding what I have now.

Anybody have the widths on the JC wheels hexes? Planning on giving the +4 aluminum c mount a shot,and looking for 5mil hexes other than the FT.

Add 1mm to the JC front B5 hexes and you should be fine. You can make it up with some shims.