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-   -   Team Associated RC10 B5m Mid-Motor & Rear Motor Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-off-road/780905-team-associated-rc10-b5m-mid-motor-rear-motor-thread.html)

KAWIDAD 05-11-2015 04:16 PM


Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings (Post 14004088)
Add 1mm to the JC front B5 hexes and you should be fine. You can make it up with some shims.

Perfect. Just the info I was looking for. Thought the fronts kinda looked close to 5mil just wasn't sure. Thanks Matt

landozer18 05-11-2015 05:13 PM

thanks wildcat. I don't know if I want to take that washer out as the horn was super hard to get on and I don't want to be pulling it in and out wrecking those splines.

Wildcat1971 05-11-2015 06:00 PM

not that washer. that is the support for the horn. the 1mm washer between the stud and the horn

Dan 05-11-2015 07:06 PM

Read glad AE has started to finally iron out some quality issues (at least I hope).

Finish my B5M lite and didn't run into any real problems. My previous 3 AE kits all had some sort of quality issues. Can't wait to run it and compare it to my old B5M.

QDRHRSE 05-11-2015 07:12 PM

Quality on all the new AE stuff is top notch. Fit and finish excellent and durability second to none now. The new RC10 B5 series has really set the bar. Now that AE sells the clear X rings the shocks don't leak anymore either. They have definitely closed the quality gap on Kyosho.

bds81175 05-11-2015 07:41 PM

I would agree, this is the nicest quality AE vehicle I have had since my gold pan. Now they just need to release me a 2wd short course truck that's the same.

sp0097 05-11-2015 09:00 PM


Originally Posted by bds81175 (Post 14004413)
I would agree, this is the nicest quality AE vehicle I have had since my gold pan. Now they just need to release me a 2wd short course truck that's the same.

I agree, the b5m lite was nice to build, no missing parts or anything like that. It's a easy to drive out of the box at my local track. Incidentally, it's the second buggy I have owned since the rc 10 gold pan (~1990 ) .

Looking forward to a 2wd AE mid motor scte, I have a had a hard time with my current sc10.2.

Cridd 05-11-2015 09:37 PM

Anybody run the regular b5m chassis close to 1500 grams then upgrade to lite chassis and add weight? How did times change?

landozer18 05-11-2015 11:50 PM


not that washer. that is the support for the horn. the 1mm washer between the stud and the horn
oh the washer you are talking about seemed crucial for steering linkage angle.
Oh well it don't rub any more.

Any ways I have two more questions;

A. I have slight in and out play in the front "axles" as they are called in the manual.
Is this normal? p.s. I did put in the crush ring/spacer/washer or at least I think that's what it is/I did.

B. What pinion do I run with an 8.5 turn on a dusty and probably medium sized track?
I'll be using the stock spur 81 T.

frankf 05-12-2015 12:36 AM

A. Yes mine have some play too also the trailing arm bush is abit loose, some people glue them in after deciding wwhether they prefer 2,3 or 4mm
B. Try 81/23 and if traction is low keep endbell timing down and esc punch level 1

3n90t 05-12-2015 01:05 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by landozer18 (Post 14004660)
oh the washer you are talking about seemed crucial for steering linkage angle.
Oh well it don't rub any more.

Any ways I have two more questions;

A. I have slight in and out play in the front "axles" as they are called in the manual.
Is this normal? p.s. I did put in the crush ring/spacer/washer or at least I think that's what it is/I did.

B. What pinion do I run with an 8.5 turn on a dusty and probably medium sized track?
I'll be using the stock spur 81 T.


I found the same play when I first got mine. But have changed axle to suit aluminium hex. If your still using kit axle and hex, try these...

3n90t 05-12-2015 01:17 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by frankf (Post 14004683)
A. Yes mine have some play too also the trailing arm bush is abit loose, some people glue them in after deciding wwhether they prefer 2,3 or 4mm
B. Try 81/23 and if traction is low keep endbell timing down and esc punch level 1

I used the optional set screws #4670 or any other M3 x 8mm lg screw (10mm lg will also fit). I use them for both front and rear and it stops the play.
Just avoid overtightening as it makes it difficult to remove/change inserts

Socket 05-12-2015 02:38 AM


Originally Posted by Cridd (Post 14004557)
Anybody run the regular b5m chassis close to 1500 grams then upgrade to lite chassis and add weight? How did times change?

Trimmings can comment on the lite chassis. The SLRC was never about weight, however it did cut 24 grams. That said, it is tremendous when it came to the added flex, and I've since brought weight back up to 1550, and it's added a ton of forgiving and smoothness it didn't have at 1430.

frankf 05-12-2015 02:53 AM


Originally Posted by 3n90t (Post 14004697)
I used the optional set screws #4670 or any other M3 x 8mm lg screw (10mm lg will also fit). I use them for both front and rear and it stops the play.
Just avoid overtightening as it makes it difficult to remove/change inserts

That's for the caster insert which I find is already a tight fit I'm referring to the trailing arm insert/bush

3n90t 05-12-2015 03:09 AM


Originally Posted by frankf (Post 14004730)
That's for the caster insert which I find is already a tight fit I'm referring to the trailing arm insert/bush

Oh...are you taking about play in the axle because of the loose inserts?
With mine, I find then to be a very tight fit. I've had both std and hard versions.


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