DanielC.

iTrader: (56)

The Ackerman change affects the car at all speeds, and was a big improvement on the tight track we ran at this weekend. The rear pivot change will be more noticeable when you're exiting the corner and applying throttle.

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

That helps answer my #3 ackerman question. I want to try this out.

I'm also using the wide rear pivot but at 2 down and just changed it to 1up FR/2down RR wide pivot for a 2 degree antisquat. It helps with on and off power steering for me.

So the difference in your 0 down wide pivot compared to 2 down wide is the lower roll center of 0 down? Doesn't a lower roll center in the rear mean more rear grip which will decrease steering?

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

I'm in the process of putting my buggy together and I noticed I'm missing the o-ring for the diff screw. Anyone else have one missing?

Chris K.

iTrader: (1)

I might be wrong but I thought a lower roll center means less roll, hence less grip. I also went to 0,0 wide and I love it. I made that change first and off-throttle entry the car would square up very quickly and allow you to get back on the power much sooner.

I also switched to 4 hole machined pistons, 1.1x4 in front with 27.5 wt AE oil, and 1.6x2; 1.1x2 in the rear. I think I may try 1.4x2; 1.1x2 in the rear. I was skeptical of the 4 hole piston, but man they are amazing. On a quick transition track it makes a huge difference.

Take Care,

Chris

DanielC.

iTrader: (56)

The above is compared in feel to that of 2dpwn/narrow pivot which I ran before. This change is a bit more involved than simply saying higher roll center or lower roll center. It alters the suspension geometry and is more drastic than say adding or removing a ball stud washer, which should be reserved for fine tuning.

That said, I have only tried the wide pivot with the 0-down height, and will definitely be testing more as time allows. A few on the team have settled on the 0-down wide as a predictable setting while still rotating better than the narrow setup. I highly recommend sticking to the wide hexes if going to the wide pivot as well, as it is more consistent and doesn't scrub corner speed much if at all.

The car itself was FAST, and had no problem keeping up.

DanielC.

iTrader: (56)

A couple more notes:

I have tried out several different 2-hole piston setups, and by far the best combo for me is 1.6 front and 1.7 rear. Have some 4 hole pistons to try on a spare set of shocks but just haven't gotten around to it.

An easy but often neglected setting is the rear toe. Adding .5 degrees of toe at the hubs is a quick-and-dirty way to gain some traction when, for example, the track loses grip as the temperature drops, or in the first round when before it has a chance to heat/groove up. Keep in mind that this will take away a bit of steering, so be mindful of your setup and track conditions.

If trying the #3 Ackerman arms you MUST check your toe first and then EPA on your radio if needed.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

I got to put a few runs on my buggy today in stock. I am/was having more of lack of on power steering than lack of rear bite like it seems everyone else is. The car has great forward bite, and turns in great, but struggled mid corner, and when the throttle is applied it would almost go straight. I am slowly tuning from the stock set-up, so shocks and almost everything else is still there. I did change a few small things and have the car almost where I want it. I raised my front c-hubs (or lowered the spindles) by placing both spacers on top, have my front pivot at 30°, and went to the 1.5° rear hubs inserts, but have them installed backwards to add + toe instead of -. I don't really know exactly what the ° is running it this way, but it appears to the naked eye to be +5°. Car rotates really well w/o any drag brake, and still has all the forward bite it did prior to the changes. I am also running a shorty all the way forward with no additional rear weights added other than a front skidplate I made (aprox 18g). Knocked off nearly 1 second from the 1st heat fast lap (lol) to the main.


I thought the same thing, but it showed up a little later when I quit looking. Mine was hiding in the out drive I think..?

BOLISARIO

iTrader: (57)

Thanks for the explanation.

For the rear wider hexes, do you mean these: http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...heel-Hex-Set-2

SRX2

The ackerman options really have me confused. If I put #3 on one side and #1 on the other side the tie-rods seem to have the same angles. If I put #2 compared to 3 and 1 I can see the angle of the tie-rod is a bit different. On cars like the B44.2 where you move the inner link of the tie-rod forward or back you can clearly see a change in tie-rod angle.

frozencone

I've built 4 of this buggies and 3 out of 4 were hiding inside the diff out drive

jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

That is the part you want. If you want a bit more explanation check out my blog: pittables.blogspot.com. This base setup has really been working well for me and a friend on 3 different tracks and conditions in 2 different states. It also worked well for Daniel and he tweaked a couple settings for his conditions and driving style.

I haven't looked at the angles that closely but you sure can feel the difference on track between the arms. I settled on #2 for most tracks. #3 for tracks with alot hair pins (180 turns). I haven't seen a need for #1 yet, but if the track was high speed with alot of sweepers I would consider it.

rcfiend

iTrader: (42)

[QUOTE=flame56mx;1312398 I thought the same thing, but it showed up a little later when I quit looking. Mine was hiding in the out drive I think..?[/QUOTE]

Yep found it. I was looking for a red o-ring according to the manual, but it was a clear one. Kind of hard to find on my pit towel.

Captcha

iTrader: (9)

I was skeptical of MM being a one and only car, but after watching them perform this weekend in the loose/slick conditions, and high bite I was sold. My buddy Mike McFarlan was able to TQ the first round of qualifying in our class when the conditions were at their worst, and that was proof enough for me.

Matt Trimmings

iTrader: (170)

Hey guys, the rear driveshafts are labeled as 65mm. Is that overall length or center of where the pivot goes to center of drive pin? Any help is appreciated, im working on something and this may work out if it's center to center. Thanks!

Eric Thompson 2

Had a good day at the track this weekend, had a bunch of help from JKirkwood on getting the car set up, as there are so many adjustments you can make on this car that I'm not used to. I qualified second behind Kirkwood for the main, gambled and chose the wrong tires so I just had to drift around for a dissapointing fifth. Had third in the last corner but jabbed the brakes too much to get the car to slide out and hit the tube, losing two spots. Oh well. Went to 0 down wide 2 down wide to try to settle the car down in some rough stuff, and that helped a lot. Thanks Jared for your help!