jkirkwood

iTrader: (8)

I don't have any pictures but for the mid motor: take off the chassis brace connecting the chassis to the transmission, unscrew the motor from the motor plate. The ballast sets between the motor and back of the battery tray and is keyed onto the posts and held in place with two screws.

For the RM the ballast installs onto the bottom of the rear shock tower and is held in place with one screw.

wakokokoyz

thank you for the fast reply. got it. i asked because i am using brass bulkhead and noticed i don't have rear traction. rear gets wild. i think better to change back to stock or alu, but for now, ill try to add a bit more weight within battery tray and see how it goes

ClayMoreJosh

Any time you change the weight that dramatically, you should re-balance the car. You can probably get your rear traction back by changing your spring package.

Read this:http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html

You can start from the beginning, but get at least to the 4th post before stopping. (personally, I think you can start from the 4th post)

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Personally, I haven't heard of many success stories with the Brass bulkhead.

Here are the weights:
Plastic: 7.1g
Aluminum: 14.5g
Brass: 41.5g

wakokokoyz

thanks for all your replies. got myself the mid ballast, alu front bulkhead and steering. i hope it teams down the beast. ^_^👍👍

Supertruck1

iTrader: (5)

I was finally able to try out the new trifex piston kit from RCSHOX.COM Normally running on a very smooth carpet track, I never had a "need" for the car to get back to ride height immediately after landing a jump. Knowing that the track i was going to be headed to was very tight and with short,steep jumps and non forgiving landings, i threw in a set of trifex pistons ( 1.3compression and 1.5 rebound) in the buggy. I started with associate 27.5 in the front and 22.5 in the rear. I didnt notice a huge difference in handeling right off the bat, but once racing started and i was attacking the jumps with more speed, and overshooting them more than i should, i saw that the car wasn't "at rest" as long, after flat landing. it was coming right back up and ready for the next turn/jump almost instantly. With a little more time, and testing, Im sure these will be the hot setup, especially on tracks that have stutter bumps and/or turns right after the landing of a jump. Another great product !!!! I also tried the new slipper eliminator and spur gear......ZUM ZUM !!! Not only did it wind up faster, but it lowered motor temps by almost a full 10* !!!!

99windy

iTrader: (1)

In the UK we use the Brass bulkhead a lot, our surfaces are very different to what you run in the US. Ours are mostly astroturf, so we use it to get the front end to turn, the jumps over here are not as brutal as yours, so we are not effected so much in flight.

But there again we do re-balance the car with brass under the shorty lipo. Another thing we do in the UK is put 50-70 grammes in the esc/rx tray. Helps to plant the car a bit more. But mostly run mod motors, so it works for us in the UK.

Hope that helps a little?

Darrin70

iTrader: (1)

Just curious if the sct front axle hex will fit the buggies? It has a wider hex, might be able to salvage some of my tires if it does..

ClayMoreJosh

Yes I have seen people use them, but it might have some unwanted affects on handling. I haven't measured, but you might be making the front wider than the rear.

tudor39

iTrader: (5)

I see a lot of discussion about o rings and boring out the bottom of the srx2 shock bodies to get them to seal and operate smoothly. What are x rings? Who's o rings are working the best for these buggies? Sorry in advance as I'm sure this has been discussed many times but there are a lot of posts to read through. Thanks

tudor39

iTrader: (5)

Also, anyone running these in Tucson? I know Jesse who's sponsored by serpent but any of you other guys on here run here in town? Which tires/compounds seem to work there? Thanks again

ClayMoreJosh

Yes there is a bit of an issue with the stock rings, if you just build them as you normally would, they will leak, bad.

I have not heard anything about boring the shocks out, but yes on the orings, I have been told 3 things.

1. Kyosho O rings work very well, but are $10 a set of 4 (I have them in all my cars currently)

2. (I think) its traxxas that makes the Xrings, I have been told they work well too. And are cheaper than Kyosho

3. Someone else also told me to just soak the stock rings in Shock oil overnight before building them. (have not tried this yet)

Hope this helps!

ClayMoreJosh

I am not sure I understand the question??

Tires should be matched to the given track surface, not so much the type of vehicle?

Am I missing something?

tudor39

iTrader: (5)

yes, i understand tires to match the track. We currently have just 1 track in operation in Tucson, AZ ( correct me if I'm wrong) hobbytown on speedway. my primary question is about other tucson drivers with serpent spyder srx2's then secondary tire selection here.

tudor39

iTrader: (5)

Also, i can't see soaking them in fluid changing anything....if they leak badly in stock form, they are going to be immersed in shock oil anyways...? right. I bought a buggy second hand, i guess I'll find out for sure if anything was done to rectify this after i tear it down. just trying to get everything lined up as well as i can ahead of time. Thanks for the quick replies, Peter.