shagino

iTrader: (57)

Welcome to the club. Download the FAQ for build tips and tools. There's also a lot of good quotes by Billy in there

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

I would do one or the other IMO. Its up to you. I like to just do the wheels in offroad.

DIRT DIGGER

iTrader: (4)

what do u guys think is a good turn motor for a tiny indoor track?

chevmaro

iTrader: (25)

Enough to make the biggest jump. Maybe 13.5.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Agree but I think 10.5. I run at a small indoor track and 13.5 in a wheeler wasn't enough to clear everything. It depends on the layout.

LowBoost

iTrader: (63)

Let me see if I get this right. If I look at a setup sheet and it says I need to use
0R - down - 0L it means that once I install my inserts it will look like this?

<-0 <-0

This based on R being wide and pointing to the out, and L being narrow and pointing to the inside, correct?

shagino

iTrader: (57)

That's bad. What setup sheet are you looking at? The arrows are to go wide and narrow, you have wide on the left and narrow in the right. The left and right should always match. Either wide/normal/narrow.

LowBoost

iTrader: (63)

Crap! I spent quite an amount of time tearing my buggy last night to make the changes. :'(
Trying to understand how these inserts work. *sight*



So I should have had this?: 0-> 0->


For the FR I installed the 0 inserts, so no wide/narrow here based on the sheet.
For the RR is where I am still confused with L/R

shagino

iTrader: (57)

No worries, we'll get you sorted out. So newer setup sheets have a wide/narrow box to avoid this so the FR hanger is centered but the RR is wide. Just a note, you will be increasing your inboard toe with this setup. Most setups seem to have wide in front and back as opposed to one normal, one wide. Just making sure you noticed that.

So back to your buggy,

You want <-0 and 0->

LowBoost

iTrader: (63)

OK - Re-reading the eccentrics chart again.
Thanks for the info. Let me go back upstairs to my "man-cave" to tear apart the car (again) and make the changes.
Will need to make changes to the front as well.

Appreciate the help.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

No problem. One thing to point out is that the RF section is confusing. It's better to think of it as where the holes are. Since the RF is turned around, the L/R is actually backwards.

LowBoost

iTrader: (63)

Got it... at least this time there is no confusion as I will be using just 0

kwiksi

iTrader: (125)

Low boost it's easier to look at the new setup sheet along with the Spyder insert chart to get the desired antisquat and toe.

LowBoost

iTrader: (63)

Kwiksi: I will take a look at it later today. I am done making the changes.
I just need to set ride height and camber. Eyeballing it, camber looks about right.
For the ride height, I will wait until I run a couple of laps to see if the suspension
settles in.

Speaking of suspension, I noticed after changing the inserts in the back that the
arms does not go all the way down now, as if it is binding somehow. Again, will run it like that
and see if it settles before making any adjustments.

Here are two pics:

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Pic detail isn't sharp enough but I'm pretty sure you have the rear hubs on backwards. The cutout on the hub is supposed to face forwards for the MM kit. Make sure you take the inserts out of the hub before swapping.