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Serpent Spyder SRX-2 Mid Motor Buggy Thread

Old 02-20-2015, 01:21 PM
  #1906  
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Originally Posted by GeekSpeed View Post
Hey all. I just ordered a Spyder MM yesterday and hopefully will be building it soon. I joined the FB group and the community is really great. I asked a question and Billy got back to me within minutes. It was pretty impressive.

Anyway, just sharing the love.
Welcome to the club. Download the FAQ for build tips and tools. There's also a lot of good quotes by Billy in there
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Old 02-20-2015, 02:32 PM
  #1907  
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Originally Posted by LowBoost View Post
Got my first 1/10 in over 18 years. I finally completed my build and now up to tires.
Just got my AKA tire punch tool. Which size should I use and how many holes?

2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm? Same diameter hole for front and rear? Just one hole or two on opposite ends? (I am using closed cell inserts).
I would do one or the other IMO. Its up to you. I like to just do the wheels in offroad.
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Old 02-21-2015, 12:09 PM
  #1908  
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what do u guys think is a good turn motor for a tiny indoor track?
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Old 02-21-2015, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DIRT DIGGER View Post
what do u guys think is a good turn motor for a tiny indoor track?
Enough to make the biggest jump. Maybe 13.5.
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Old 02-21-2015, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by chevmaro View Post
Enough to make the biggest jump. Maybe 13.5.
Agree but I think 10.5. I run at a small indoor track and 13.5 in a wheeler wasn't enough to clear everything. It depends on the layout.
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by shagino View Post
Arrow points to the front also. So You want L 0.5 on the left and R 0.5 on the right with the arrow pointing for both.
Let me see if I get this right. If I look at a setup sheet and it says I need to use
0R - down - 0L it means that once I install my inserts it will look like this?

<-0 <-0

This based on R being wide and pointing to the out, and L being narrow and pointing to the inside, correct?


Last edited by LowBoost; 02-22-2015 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:11 AM
  #1912  
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Originally Posted by LowBoost View Post
Let me see if I get this right. If I look at a setup sheet and it says I need to use
0R - down - 0L it means that once I install my inserts it will look like this?

<-0 <-0

This based on R being wide and pointing to the out, and L being narrow and pointing to the inside, correct?
That's bad. What setup sheet are you looking at? The arrows are to go wide and narrow, you have wide on the left and narrow in the right. The left and right should always match. Either wide/normal/narrow.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:22 AM
  #1913  
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Crap! I spent quite an amount of time tearing my buggy last night to make the changes. :'(
Trying to understand how these inserts work. *sight*



So I should have had this?: 0-> 0->


For the FR I installed the 0 inserts, so no wide/narrow here based on the sheet.
For the RR is where I am still confused with L/R
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LowBoost View Post
Crap! I spent quite an amount of time tearing my buggy last night to make the changes. :'(

So I should have had this?: 0-> 0->
No worries, we'll get you sorted out. So newer setup sheets have a wide/narrow box to avoid this so the FR hanger is centered but the RR is wide. Just a note, you will be increasing your inboard toe with this setup. Most setups seem to have wide in front and back as opposed to one normal, one wide. Just making sure you noticed that.

So back to your buggy,

You want <-0 and 0->
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:53 AM
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OK - Re-reading the eccentrics chart again.
Thanks for the info. Let me go back upstairs to my "man-cave" to tear apart the car (again) and make the changes.
Will need to make changes to the front as well.

Appreciate the help.
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by LowBoost View Post
OK - Re-reading the eccentrics chart again.
Thanks for the info. Let me go back upstairs to my "man-cave" to tear apart the car (again) and make the changes.
Will need to make changes to the front as well.

Appreciate the help.
No problem. One thing to point out is that the RF section is confusing. It's better to think of it as where the holes are. Since the RF is turned around, the L/R is actually backwards.
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:07 AM
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Got it... at least this time there is no confusion as I will be using just 0
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:47 AM
  #1918  
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Low boost it's easier to look at the new setup sheet along with the Spyder insert chart to get the desired antisquat and toe.
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Old 02-22-2015, 10:59 AM
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Kwiksi: I will take a look at it later today. I am done making the changes.
I just need to set ride height and camber. Eyeballing it, camber looks about right.
For the ride height, I will wait until I run a couple of laps to see if the suspension
settles in.

Speaking of suspension, I noticed after changing the inserts in the back that the
arms does not go all the way down now, as if it is binding somehow. Again, will run it like that
and see if it settles before making any adjustments.

Here are two pics:


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Old 02-22-2015, 11:26 AM
  #1920  
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Originally Posted by LowBoost View Post
Speaking of suspension, I noticed after changing the inserts in the back that the
arms does not go all the way down now, as if it is binding somehow. Again, will run it like that
and see if it settles before making any adjustments.
Pic detail isn't sharp enough but I'm pretty sure you have the rear hubs on backwards. The cutout on the hub is supposed to face forwards for the MM kit. Make sure you take the inserts out of the hub before swapping.
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