Cain

iTrader: (294)

you could try putting some shoe goo into the holes to give it some threads again.

tc5 man

Yea the sway bar ends do strip easy i just snug them or leave the Front bar unhooked.

90sRacer

iTrader: (3)

I will probably leave it off after testing out my newest change. Today, I was rebuilding the shocks and decided to increase the kick-up and lower the roll center in the front. (FF-1, FR-3). I want to see how this alters performance assuming other constants (sway bar in place), so I'll do the shoe goo method as mentioned above (thx Cain). I will then see how it drives with the sway bar disconnected.

I don't know what springs came with this buggy when I bought it (used), assuming stock.

I expected to do better than I did this past weekend. Have some trouble in a rhythm section (double, double, double) with stability. There's also a large (big air) jump. I've got to work on my throttle control. It's not that I'm nosing over, or landing on the wing but I tend to keep the nose in the air too long (scrubbing speed), but I can bring it down on all fours... need to work on leveling it out sooner. Fun! I need to practice more, but have little time. I only got 10 laps in open practice pre-race.

Having fun with this buggy!

tc5 man

The next time i run this buggy im going to try with the red springs F/37W, 3 hole like i been running and on the shock tower go to the lowest hole should come down that aggressive turn causing the Rear end loose on dry dirt.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

How much droop limiters are you guys running in general in the shocks?

Yesterdays race went well. Took second but considering I got tangled up a couple of times with lap traffic and I was running a 13.5 spec versus the winner running full mod 7.5, I feel pretty good

I am really liking the VRP 3 x 1.3 hole pistons front and rear with the yellow front, blue rear spring setup and 400cst Front, 300cst rear oil settings.

I may go with some droop limiting in the shocks based on some comparison to an xray drivers vehicle.

Also, I am thinking of going with a higher center diff, i liked the punchy feel of the xray drivers vehicle that was running a slipper. Right now running 10 -100 -5 . I am thinking of trying 10-200-5, 10-200-7, and possibly 10-500-5 depending on wht I have for spare diffs. The Exotek center mount sure comes in handy for those swaps!

tc5 man

I'm running Front and Rear droop with the shock ends about 1mm or so close to the first line . Cant tell you on the diff oil setup haven't tried more than 7,60,5 outdoors and 10,10,5 indoors.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

gotcha, so no internal limiters?

Yeah I am thinking for my driving style I need more punch, so going with a heavier center may be what the doctor ordered. I think I am going to break open the extra diff I have here and make a heavier diff. with the split mount from exotek easier to change

tc5 man

Never tried the limiters inside the shocks I thought it's not needed when doing it with the shock ends .

Cain

iTrader: (294)

right now I am wondering if my setup already has the eyelets threaded in all the way so could cut down on droop some more.

May give some of the setups a better look but my current one other than a bit more punch for my driving style I really like.

tc5 man

I noticed one thing on the buggy is blown bearings in the Rear plastic hubs sure that was really affecting the handling problems over the weekend, i had they were Avid bearings also . Always wonder why manf don't use bigger hub bearings on 4wd buggys cause they don't last long.

GETDAT

iTrader: (11)

Any body got any good setups for outdoor 13.5 spec class.

New to 4wd

Cain

iTrader: (294)

This is what I have right now that I am liking:

FRONT

- Kickup: 3 dot front, 2 dot rear fr 9 degrees
- B Shock tower
- Position 2 (middle)
- position 1 on inner camber link hole
- 2mm shim under ball stud
- 0 mm on caster block fr camber link
- 1mm spacer upper and lower for steering block
- Shock Position 2 on a-arm
- 1mm FF
- 1mm FR
- 400cst oil PT Racing oil
- VRP 3 x 1.3mm pistons
- HB Yellow Spring
- Ride Height 22mm
- -1 camber angle
- Toe Angle 0 degrees
- Sway bar: Copper
- steering link in negative position 1mm shim

REAR
- Antisquat RF: 1 dot RR: 1 dot for zero degrees
- B Shock Tower
- Position 3 on tower
- Position 1 on inner ball stud mount
- 1mm shim on inner ball stud mount
- Position 3 on rear hub carrier block
- position 1 on rear hub height
- Position 1 on a-arm
- 0.5mm RF, 1.5mm RR for 3.0 of toe in
- 300cst Shock oil PT Racing Brand
- VRP 3 x 1.3mm pistons
- Hot Bodies Blue Spring
- 22mm Ride height
- -1 camber
- Silver swaybar
- 2mm spacer to rear of arm, 0.5mm to front

- Motor: Maclan 13.5 with ultra torque rotor
- Exotek center diff with 68T spur gear (don't recall pinion but I think a 33T)
- Shorty Battery
- ESC to the front
- Receiver on top of servo
- 10K - 100K - 5K center diff oil

Miscallaneous options:
- Exotek Chassis
- Exotek center diff mount
- Factory RC center diff brace
- Factory RC rear ballstud mount
- Exotek steering link
- EXotek shock caps
- VRP Pistons


My daughters is setup with standard 2 x 1.6mm and 2 x 1.7mm pistons with the 50cst heavier oil all around and it works well.

I am going to look into changing the antisquat setting. After talking with some folks its one area I think I have off. I may go to the max setting to see how it goes.

90sRacer

iTrader: (3)

For quite a while I've noticed my buggy, when turning sharp on traction, or recovering from a spin, sometimes it doesn't move. I did some figure 8's on my carpet in the house to try and duplicate, and I was successful. The video shows the buggy "grinding" on very sharp turns. Did this before and after diff rebuilds BTW. Although I didn't capture on video, it also stopped (where it wouldn't move) on occasion. Notice the speed drops when grinding...that's not me. Trigger not being backed off.

+ YouTube Video

Cain

iTrader: (294)

+ YouTube Video

do you have a different motor to try to confirm its not the motor?

When you did diff rebuilds, what all did that entail?
(example: all new internal gears and tranny gears, rebuild with new diff fluid only)

90sRacer

iTrader: (3)

Thank you, Cain, for the prompt reply!
Diff rebuild: Actually, yes, it was simply fluid changes. I did inspect the gears and bearings, though at the time...they looked fine to me.

Motor: I don't have a spare just yet. Buggy has plenty of power of though, and motor doesn't run hot. Didn't really think about the motor being a potential cause.

Video Link: FIXED! Thx...