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Old 10-12-2015, 10:09 AM
  #9961  
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Originally Posted by cokemaster
I have converted the spring rates in the attachement.
Thanks cokemaster
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:13 AM
  #9962  
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Originally Posted by Billy
On these pictures of Ty's 4wd is the fan located behind the motor bell blowing air into the bell or pulling air away from the motor which goes with air flow of the car? I can't really see the pitch of the fan blades.
http://events.redrc.net/2015/10/chas...y-tessmann-11/
Hope that prototype slipper comes to market, I'm over messing with diff oils. would rather have grip.
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:46 AM
  #9963  
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Hope that prototype slipper comes to market, I'm over messing with diff oils. would rather have grip.
Throw a wad of silly putty in that center diff . You will be good to go . Locked up with enough give to save the drive train.... Have fun , grip on !
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:21 AM
  #9964  
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Originally Posted by wittyname
Throw a wad of silly putty in that center diff . You will be good to go . Locked up with enough give to save the drive train.... Have fun , grip on !
Good idea. I tried peanut butter, but it got stinky after a couple weeks.
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Old 10-13-2015, 03:56 PM
  #9965  
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I just opened the pics on Photoshop and the logo on the blades is facing the motor so It's pulling air from the motor rather than blowing air onto it.
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Old 10-13-2015, 05:00 PM
  #9966  
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Hi guys I was reading some old posts on this thread and people kept complaining about the spur gear. Is this still a problem and are there other problems I should know about before getting the car.
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:46 PM
  #9967  
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Originally Posted by calijohn
Hi guys I was reading some old posts on this thread and people kept complaining about the spur gear. Is this still a problem and are there other problems I should know about before getting the car.
Not really problems per se but things you might want to know if you don't already.

Don't bother with the saddle pack setup, most motors won't fit

Get the Exotek spur gear and never worry about it again.

The kit uses metric hardware except for the small screws in the diff and the plates on the arms. Just make sure you have a .050 hex driver.

Get the aluminum shock caps, the stock ones work but the aluminum caps are a more traditional style.

Pay attention to the front and rear diffs. The first time I put mine together the front went forwards and the rear went backwards. Lol

That's the issues I experienced. Like I said, not really problems just a few things to keep in mind. It's a great buggy, really happy with it.
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:56 PM
  #9968  
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Originally Posted by roadblock
Not really problems per se but things you might want to know if you don't already.

Don't bother with the saddle pack setup, most motors won't fit

Get the Exotek spur gear and never worry about it again.

The kit uses metric hardware except for the small screws in the diff and the plates on the arms. Just make sure you have a .050 hex driver.

Get the aluminum shock caps, the stock ones work but the aluminum caps are a more traditional style.

Pay attention to the front and rear diffs. The first time I put mine together the front went forwards and the rear went backwards. Lol

That's the issues I experienced. Like I said, not really problems just a few things to keep in mind. It's a great buggy, really happy with it.
Awesome! Just ordered mine with the aluminum caps and exotek spur. Thanks for the help
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Old 10-13-2015, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by roadblock
Not really problems per se but things you might want to know if you don't already.

Don't bother with the saddle pack setup, most motors won't fit

Get the Exotek spur gear and never worry about it again.

The kit uses metric hardware except for the small screws in the diff and the plates on the arms. Just make sure you have a .050 hex driver.

Get the aluminum shock caps, the stock ones work but the aluminum caps are a more traditional style.

Pay attention to the front and rear diffs. The first time I put mine together the front went forwards and the rear went backwards. Lol

That's the issues I experienced. Like I said, not really problems just a few things to keep in mind. It's a great buggy, really happy with it.
Sorry but that bit in bold is just not right. I've seen this car with Saddle setup numerous times and it's fine. The vast majority of motors are 98% identical in size.
you just have to ensure you set your solder tabs correctly.
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Old 10-13-2015, 09:42 PM
  #9970  
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Originally Posted by 1967Typhoon
Almost all fans of this style (lets just say PC fans) push air out of the back of the fan. It works oppositely of the fans in your house where the airflow comes out of the face of the fan. Does this make sense?

So it looks to me like that fan is pulling air away from the motor and out the back of a small opening in the body. Not the most effective, but it does go with the flow of the air naturally moving under the body.
Thanks that is what i was thinking as well!
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:20 AM
  #9971  
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Originally Posted by Billy
Thanks that is what i was thinking as well!
This was my point in my original response. I never seen an rc model fan set to pull air away that worked better at cooling then pushing air onto the component you want to cool.

Every ESC I've ever used you push air into the heatsinks because the fans don't pull air out worth a crap.

Ditto for motor fans. just do a simple experiment. Run it in the pull air from the motor configuration, measure temps. Then setup the fan to push air into the motor and check temps.

I'll bet you a dollar the temperatures are lower when you push air onto the component you want to cool.

Its opposite of what you think. Pulling hot air away from the already hot components does nothing for cooling.

Introducing cooler air onto the component by pushing air onto the component cools it more effectively.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:49 AM
  #9972  
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Agreed. But to add clarity as to why computer fans pull air, that's usually the case because there are usually more than one fan and they work in unison where one pulls air from he front to blow cooler air over components and the rear fans suck that air out to cool more efficiently, but they work in tandem.

The Older G5's had a transparent plastic cover on the side that was moulded in order to create a vortex and channel air through the entire system in specific fashion.

As for the WTF Fans, they are widely used in TC racing and I can confirm they blow MUCH more air than the average RC fan at a higher rate of speed. They really do the job well.
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:51 AM
  #9973  
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Originally Posted by the incubus

As for the WTF Fans, they are widely used in TC racing and I can confirm they blow MUCH more air than the average RC fan at a higher rate of speed. They really do the job well.

These fans are Wonderful.

Blowing into the motor to cool it off


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Old 10-14-2015, 07:55 AM
  #9974  
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+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 10-14-2015, 11:33 AM
  #9975  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Agreed. But to add clarity as to why computer fans pull air, that's usually the case because there are usually more than one fan and they work in unison where one pulls air from he front to blow cooler air over components and the rear fans suck that air out to cool more efficiently, but they work in tandem.

The Older G5's had a transparent plastic cover on the side that was moulded in order to create a vortex and channel air through the entire system in specific fashion.

As for the WTF Fans, they are widely used in TC racing and I can confirm they blow MUCH more air than the average RC fan at a higher rate of speed. They really do the job well.
I definitely need to try one!!!
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